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Darkwood

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg

I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. :omg_smile:

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg
 
That would also apply to the terminal screws, but we do those up with our torque driver don't we. 🤔
Terminals are usually brass so little risk of corrosion in any sane environment.

There reverse is more reasonable, if the accessories is earthed by the CPC then the back-box is acceptably so via the screws, also normally you can't touch that.

Stop, Hammer time!
 
Terminals are usually brass so little risk of corrosion in any sane environment.
There reverse is more reasonable, if the accessories is earthed by the CPC then the back-box is acceptably so via the screws, also normally you can't touch that.
Stop, Hammer time!
Yep, no matter what, the accessory should be earthed. Touch point is important. The back box is the secondary, although, in most cases, IMO, it should also be cable connected.
Why do accessories and boxes both have earth connection points, anyway?
 
A builder we do work for is building a kitchen extension, I know he has done electrical work himself in the past before I knew him as half his house has "DIY" electrics all over the show. So we are wiring the kitchen/diner/utility for him, last time we were there the kitchen was 2nd fixed and the utility was 1st fixed, we turned up on Friday and he had taken it upon himself to move all the sockets we 1st fixed into new positions as he changed his mind, not only that he got it plastered and he second fixed it himself, All he wanted us to do was swap the fronts for chrome (oh and a cert).

Firstly he said the screws didn't quite reach so he got longer screws but they were too long so when he tightened one of them it ripped the lug of one of the boxes, when I removed the fronts I was this. as you can see, no grommets, way too short and stripped back with a machete. Can you imagine the pain it caused trying to sort that out, wonder if he has adhered to safe zones.
 

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I went to second fix a kitchen I had wired a while ago and some sockets weren't where I had pictures of them. The Builder had moved them over and finished the wall! It was very quickly unfinshed by me and a chisel, especially after seeing the state of the cable sheath and insulation at the socket and the brand new twin KO box! Looked like he had used a claw hammer to remove it rather than a screwdriver!
The standards of some are very very sloppy indeed!
 
Firstly he said the screws didn't quite reach so he got longer screws but they were too long so when he tightened one of them it ripped the lug of one of the boxes, when I removed the fronts I was this. as you can see, no grommets, way too short and stripped back with a machete. Can you imagine the pain it caused trying to sort that out, wonder if he has adhered to safe zones.
He's interfered with your installation without even informing you, besides ferkin' it up completely. I definitely would not sign off a certificate for that.
He can Part Pee off.
 
Had a call out on Sunday. RCD kept tripping (upfront RCD) so no power to any circuits. Asked them to try all circuits off and then try each circuit one by one to see which caused the trip whilst on the phone. However even with everything off the RCD wouldn't stay on. So either a faulty RCD (not impossible as an old board) or a N-E fault (more likely). So off I went.

Found the issue was the downstairs socket circuit and as no electrical work has been done for about 4yrs I started taking off sockets in the most recent area, which was the kitchen. IR test was showing a dead short N-E (which was already obvious given the RCD would not stay on as soon as the neutral to this circuit was connected)

Found this cracking kitchen fitters install, particularly impressed with the twist in the conductors as they have rotated the socket a couple of times. There is a feed taken from this socket to a socket under the sink for the dishwasher, all just ran loose on the floor, it was then linked through via the wagobox into a socket in the dining room.

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I disconnected this lot yet the RCD still wouldn't turn on. So a bit of head scratching and then I started taking off the socket fronts of all the other sockets on the circuit (17 in all).

I then found this in a socket in the lounge at the opposite end of the house to the kitchen.

IMG_1495.jpeg



It was an incredible coincidence that this and the kitchen fitter special caused a fault at the same time. The lounge socket was causing an issue with the neutral touching the back box. But even when that was sorted I still had a fault. Disconnected the kitchen special and circuit remained energised. Repaired the damaged neutral sleeving with a couple of layers of heat shrink. Also reterminated the live. There is a dead short N-E fault on the kitchen special wiring which I am guessing is behind the cabinet somewhere and has developed over time to the point it now links N-E.

Kitchen is getting a refurb in a couple of months so that's bonus as they now want me to do the electrical work for it.
 
Cables slung under the units and a wago box joint is pretty normal these days , heck I even run cables under the units in some pipe or flexi if the customer doesn't want to pay to have it all chased in.
But the terminating of the socket and all the torn up sheathing is just rough as a badgers
 
Cables slung under the units and a wago box joint is pretty normal these days , heck I even run cables under the units in some pipe or flexi if the customer doesn't want to pay to have it all chased in.
But the terminating of the socket and all the torn up sheathing is just rough as a badgers
Apparently it was all done when the el cheapo kitchen cupboards were added about 4-5yrs ago. I can't understand why they didn't use the service void and some trunking if that was the case.
 
Apparently it was all done when the el cheapo kitchen cupboards were added about 4-5yrs ago. I can't understand why they didn't use the service void and some trunking if that was the case.
Yes in a perfect world you can screw some plastic trunking on the wall and run any cables in prior to the units being installed.
However on many an occasion I get a call at the last minute saying 'please can you pop round and put in some new sockets in our new kitchen' to find the kitchen is all but 99% installed and I am having to fish cables under the units and carefully chase up behind the brand new worktops that were just laid last week
 
Yes in a perfect world you can screw some plastic trunking on the wall and run any cables in prior to the units being installed.
However on many an occasion I get a call at the last minute saying 'please can you pop round and put in some new sockets in our new kitchen' to find the kitchen is all but 99% installed and I am having to fish cables under the units and carefully chase up behind the brand new worktops that were just laid last week
That was a bit like one I had a while ago.

'Can we have some additional sockets and lights fitted?"

Walls were all tiled from worktop to ceiling and they had one pendant in the centre and wanted downlights and 3 separate pendants over the dining table.

I managed it with a lot of patience and the help of quinetic switching. But they were under no illusion I couldn't guarantee no breaks in the tiles or additional holes in the newly plastered and painted ceiling.
 
I get that with kitchens as well. Doing one just now where the customer isn’t in a great hurry… the old cabinets are being taken out wall by wall, and I get in inbetween to do any electrical work.

Wago box behind the kickboard ends up being the only option sometimes. The joiner is coming unannounced in the evenings, so I get a text the day after, then have to reorganise planned work to get in before he comes back.

Last week I uncovered a floor hatch, thinking that’s going to make my life easier… just for the gas fitter to come before I got back. (The joiner couldn’t find it at first even though it has “hatch” written all over it!)

Still room, but I’ve got a dicky knee and they’re only 12” space down there.
I don’t bend like I used to.

IMG_3834.jpeg
 
Today's fun. I was only there to change a cracked socket front a quick end of day job, which I did.

As far as I can tell it's TT (found the rod and getting 2 ohms Zs from CPC bar) but can't verify what else is bonded at this point. There's only one earth wire that isn't a CPC coming into the board, so suspect there's a MET somewhere in Narnia.
I didn't want to try a high current test in case there's an upfront RCD in there too!

Also of note is the split load board, so potentially inadequate fault protection for right hand half if parallel paths are removed.
I had to say that I couldn't prove I'd left it in a safe condition and I'd have to return, take the panel off and see what is actually going on.
(The panel is actually about 4 times as tall as shown and extends to the top of the stair well just to help matters)

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Some photo's pointing my phone in the hole...
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The earth wire below goes to an old oil pipe not the cut-out btw

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As far as I can tell it's TT (found the rod and getting 2 ohms Zs from CPC bar) but can't verify what else is bonded at this point. There's only one earth wire that isn't a CPC coming into the board, so suspect there's a MET somewhere in Narnia.
2 ohms is either a very rubbish TN or a suspiciously good TT result!

Of course if there is a lot of oil pipe or whatever buried in damp ground then 2 ohms is possible, but it feels to me like a lot of buried metal or extraordinarily wet & salty ground.
 
On the theme of plumber. Couple of call outs on Monday.

First one was a tripping boiler. Plumber had the wisdom to put the wireless stat directly under the boiler, which leaked straight into the stat. They’ve also used the earth as a core.

814F7C7D-26D8-45FA-A383-4211A713E924.jpeg


Second one was from a plumber who was trying to wire in a switch for an immersion and also a shower pump. Couldn’t work out why every time they screwed the switch back it tripped.

I politely told them it was their rubbish wiring and they’ve nicked the live so it’s tripping on the back box.

I sorted it all out and tidied it all up.

FFE9BFCC-7721-4DA5-9222-097B637AC7A2.jpeg
 

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Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!
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