Discuss First consumer unit change. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I always RCD test at the end of the circuit. Its a live test, and its a safety device that should be tested in full. If I recall there's some manufactures who recommend testing at source, but I would be more confident testing at outlet. Each to their own.
 
The MEM add on RCD pods, MR30s don't like being tested at the board. They refuse to trip when tested. Apart from these, I always test RCDs at the board, preferably with no load connected.
But I also like to do a test at the other end of the circuit for good measure.
 
It's an interesting point, testing the RCD to ensure it operates is one thing, but in reality it must be tested with the circuit intact to ensure it does its job from the other end, discuss, perhaps we ought to take this to the Arms?
 
Dare I ask how you managed to fit the new tails, Isolator already there???
i have 2 alternatives.dependent on the condition of the dNO fuse assembly, and presence of seals.

1.Pull fuse . Still need to cut seals on meter or fit Henlys. .
2. Cut meter seals. ensure no load on installation. remove tails from meter (live). This negates the need to touch the DNO fuse. Safer IMHO. it's how we done it back in the 15th. then a tongue in cheek call to the supplier, say i notice your meter seals are missing.or fit non-standard seals courtesy of ebay.

had one t'other week where meter fitter had broke one of the slots in a meter terminal screw. took ages to rag the screw out using sharp precision sidecutters . new slot made with junior hacksaw. good as new.
 
Not sure I would have that 6.0 on a 40A as it is contained in conduit.
It isn't. The cooker is on a 32a. It is in conduit for approx 1.2m then is clipped direct to the skirting board before chased into the wall to the socket (don't ask, I didn't install it! ?) Total length of the cable is approx 2.5m to the switch then approx 1.5m to the cooker terminal.

I worked out the load as it is a 7.43kw cooker.

So taking diversity into account the 6.0 & 32A is more than sufficient as it is 10A +30% of remainder (22.3a) = 16.69a + 5A for the plug socket on the switch = 21.69A.

6mm in conduit is rated to 38A & 34A once in the wall. So it's well within spec.

The 6.0 40A is supplying the garage and that is clipped direct.?
 
It isn't. The cooker is on a 32a. It is in conduit for approx 1.2m then is clipped direct to the skirting board before chased into the wall to the socket (don't ask, I didn't install it! ?) Total length of the cable is approx 2.5m to the switch then approx 1.5m to the cooker terminal.

I worked out the load as it is a 7.43kw cooker.

So taking diversity into account the 6.0 & 32A is more than sufficient as it is 10A +30% of remainder (22.3a) = 16.69a + 5A for the plug socket on the switch = 21.69A.

6mm in conduit is rated to 38A & 34A once in the wall. So it's well within spec.

The 6.0 40A is supplying the garage and that is clipped direct.?
Apologies my error.
 
Very tidy job - well done. BTW looking at first photo of new board did you originally have it too close to the ceiling to get the cover on ;-) Most of us have similar at some point!

I have a Fusebox board sitting here - I'm fitting one tomorrow for the first time.
I'm impressed with it so far. The cover has screw catchers, the knock outs actually knock out, and it feels very solid. It's also a nice size to replace a 6 module rewireable Wylex if space is limited.

I very nearly did. Then luckily had a flash of wisdom.

The board is very nice and good quality. I was impressed with it myself. Just irked my CDO with the slight lean.
 
Very good first CU change @Raptor0014 ! Did you have a moment of worry when you saw hundreds of cables sticking out of the wall, with you the only one responsible for putting it all back together? ? I still remember that feeling from my first CU cjange.

Also very brave to put it online as every minor detail will be examined and criticised, still I guess that is what you want for learning purposes.

@westward does have a good point about the 6mm in conduit though, on a 40A breaker. I'm never too sure which reference method takes preference though when only a very short run is in the more strict reference method.

I will add reg 521.5.1 . I believe the main earth should enter through the same hole into the CU as the line and neutral tails, to negate possible electromagnetic effects. I stand to be corrected though. If I am correct then I will be chuffed that I spotted it before @westward10
 
Nice n neat good job ??, with regards the high readings I generally find fusebox pretty consistent with the trip times unless it’s a type A then they get abit close to maximum ?
 
[picky]B40 first on the busbar, not last.[/picky]

That was what I initially intended to do. But the way the cable run had been installed left it with no play and I didn't have time to take the covered walkway panels down, unclip it and see if there was enough play to move the RCBO nearer to the switch.

In reality I doubt the garage would ever pull anywhere near 40A. It's only got sockets and lights at the other end.
 
Can you give a valid reason for this.
used to be usual to put the highest loads closest to the main switch. the reasoning being that the larger load currents didn't have to travel further along the busbar. no logic behind it, it was realised about 30 yearsa go that the electricity did not leak out proportionaelyt to the length of the busbar and this pracice was stopped along with the old wives tale of "exporting the earth".
 
Very good first CU change @Raptor0014 !

Also very brave to put it online as every minor detail will be examined and criticised, still I guess that is what you want for learning purposes.

@westward does have a good point about the 6mm in conduit though, on a 40A breaker. I'm never too sure which reference method takes preference though when only a very short run is in the more strict reference method.

I will add reg 521.5.1 . I believe the main earth should enter through the same hole into the CU as the line and neutral tails, to negate possible electromagnetic effects. I stand to be corrected though.
See my other post, it's not in conduit.

Noted ref the earth.

And yes correct, this is why I posted to ensure I continuously improve myself. Nobody is perfect as they say.
 

Reply to First consumer unit change. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Similar Threads

In a property with two consumer units one for the ring main etc., and the other for the 1970s storage heaters (storage heater CU looks like it’s...
Replies
14
Views
1K
Hello all.. I'm quoting for some work and would like change the type AC RCBO to a type A. Consumer unit is a castlec which I have not come...
Replies
5
Views
887
Trying to organise a CU replacement at home. It's a 1930s property. It's got a 10way CU but with no RCD protection. Was after a larger unit with...
Replies
65
Views
4K
Hello, Is there an actual age limit on house wiring that would prevent a traditional fuse box being replaced with a consumer unit please...
Replies
8
Views
988
Hi, NAPIT report was carried out due to flood, all kitchen appliances, wall/light switches, fire/heaters etc need replacing. The electrician...
Replies
4
Views
881

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Pushfit Wire Connectors Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc

Electrical Forum

Welcome to the Electrical Forum at ElectriciansForums.net. The friendliest electrical forum online. General electrical questions and answers can be found in the electrical forum.
This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by Untold Media. Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock