Hoping a Sparky can help

P

PaullyC

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i have just tried to install a bathoom fan with light xpelair with light 93087AW

Xpelair | SSISFC Simply Silent Illumi Shower Fan Complete | 93087AW - https://www.xpelair.co.uk/product/93087AW/SSISFC-Simply-Silent-Illumi--Shower-Fan-Complete

I am replacing old fan run from a light switch and has a seperate isolator switch.

3 core cable. It says live, neutral and T to connect switch live. Same as old fan.

But doing this it only works and stays on when isolator switch on both fan and light. Switch on lights now does nothing. Isolator turns both off.

Tried swapping live and switched live but then nothing works.

Any ideas please? My bathroom is a dangling mess.

Thanks in advance if you can help :)

Old wiring attached

757063EE-A9A2-4B78-B4BC-84EEB0E0436A.jpeg
 
3998E742-241A-4A13-ABCF-798C19620F26.jpeg

Forgot the new wiring and manual. I tryed swaping sl and L round and it does now turn on and off with switch but the timer is not working as it turns off fan straight away.

Any help so appreciated :)

7CD383B5-9937-4397-9029-ADD61BDE110B.jpeg
 
I notice in your first picture the yellow has a red sleeve on it, yet in the last picture the red sleeve is missing. This sleeve identifies a live conductor.

At a guess you've got your live, switched live and neutrals swapped around.

An electrician could have this rectified in a few minutes.
 
Thanks for replying.

I have tried both and neither works. Following the instructions means no switch just isolator. Swapping live and sl means switch works but not the timer. It’s very odd. Will call Xpellair.

The photo is a testing of unit. The sleeve has fallen off.
 
Xpelair will say in their literature, An Electrician must fit this. You might invalidate your house insurance if the fan catches fire. Is it fused to 3a? Again probably recommended by manufacturer. I think you should call an electrician.
 
Vortigern said:
Xpelair will say in their literature, An Electrician must fit this. You might invalidate your house insurance if the fan catches fire. Is it fused to 3a? Again probably recommended by manufacturer. I think you should call an electrician.
Click to expand...

Do you mean on the fuse box? I simply took the old one out. Then took the 3 cable of Live, SL and Neutral and wired as instructions say, tested new unit before fitting and this is what happened.

I have read that this has been a problem on another thread?

Someone mentions it on amazon too
PEG said:
With the utmost respect,you do know,what Xpellair are going to tell you...:)
Click to expand...
 
Check the installation instructions. Fusing would be at a FCU supplying the fan. The problem I have alluded to is regards an electrician who fitted a fan but did not do as the instructions advised. The fan caught fire and the electrician went to the gallows (figuratively speaking) If you are fitting a new fan you must comply with current requirements. They do seem to say that if the connection is more than 2.5 metres long... And in fact they recommend a 5a fuse so that clears that one up.
 
all the cables are there, so the most likely variable is that you have connected them wrong
 
Hi - fusing with the small fuse as per @Vortigern post 16 is manufacturer's recommendation for protection against fire. It won't make the fan work if it's wired incorrectly, or busted. Reality is you probably need test equipment to see what's happening. Please be careful with those wires !
 
Vortigern said:
Xpelair will say in their literature, An Electrician must fit this. You might invalidate your house insurance if the fan catches fire. Is it fused to 3a? Again probably recommended by manufacturer. I think you should call an electrician.
Click to expand...

Do you mean on the fuse box? I simply took the old one out. Then took the 3 cable of Live, SL and Neutral and wired as instructions say, tested new unit before fitting and this is what happened.

I have read that this has been a problem on another thread?
Wilko said:
Hi - fusing with the small fuse as per @Vortigern post 16 is manufacturer's recommendation for protection against fire. It won't make the fan work if it's wired incorrectly, or busted. Reality is you probably need test equipment to see what's happening. Please be careful with those wires !
Click to expand...


I have tested it with my multi meter. Switched live is switching but still not working. I have just cut and re- stripped them :)
 
From the pic of the new fan the red and yellow need swapping to correspond with the old fan connections and theoretically it should function. Had the old fan stopped operating.
 
Thanks, that is how I have it and it is constantly on once the isolator is turned on. The light switch does nothing. Then the only way to turn off is switch off isolation switch.

Do pros install these extra fuse on the wiring diagram above. It says 5 but the main unit is a 6amp fuse. Is there any simple way to do thus please?
 
After testing the cables in they all work. The old unit plugged back in works as it should.

I am thinking either the transformer unit is duff or I just wire it so the timer doesn’t work.

But this 5 amp fuse thing.

All my lights are now LED bulbs in the entire house, so the current they draw on the circuit is miles less. Can I just swap the main fuse to a 5 amp? Would that be the same as a 5 amp in line fuse?

Thanks for peoples’ help.
 
The manufacturer recommends the fuse for fire protection in the event the fan should seize the fuse should blow, this is normally 3A but the absence of the fuse will not prevent correct operation of the fan.
 
It is not the main "fuse" I am talking about that is 6a, leave that alone. So on your boiler for instance is there a switch that the wire for the boiler comes out? If so that is a fused spur, it has a fuse in it local to the appliance separate from the MCB at your consumer unit. I am saying the supply to the fan should be on a triple pole isolator usually outside the bathroom with a switched and fused spur giving the supply. Is it difficult? well it's easy if you know how. Don't take a chance get an electricican to make sure everything is as it should be.
 
THanks i understand what needs doing but that means another crazy expense for what seems to be a nonsense.

I have been looking at the click mini grid. But it will create a massive eyesore.

I think I will look for another fan that does not need this fuse. Another thread mentions some manufacturers.
 
If it's not working you have a problem with the fan or the the switched live cable
The switched live cable tells the fan when the light comes on and to activate the permanent live is to keep it running the additional time set by the timer


Get a spark to test and fit
 
curly said:
If it's not working you have a problem with the fan or the the switched live cable
The switched live cable tells the fan when the light comes on and to activate the permanent live is to keep it running the additional time set by the timer


Get a spark to test and fit
Click to expand...

Thanks for all your help. Last question I promise.

I am very interested in your comment about switched live. I did some more tests. With the switched live off (switch contacts open) there is still 70 volts showing between SL and neutral. Then normal 240 with switch contacts closed.

Would you expect that? Seems a bit odd to me to get 70 volts, hence why I ponder your switched live potential issue you raised?

The spark is going to come if I can get him.
 
PaullyC said:
Thanks for all your help. Last question I promise.

I am very interested in your comment about switched live. I did some more tests. With the switched live off (switch contacts open) there is still 70 volts showing between SL and neutral. Then normal 240 with switch contacts closed.

Would you expect that? Seems a bit odd to me to get 70 volts, hence why I ponder your switched live potential issue you raised?

The spark is going to come if I can get him.
Click to expand...
Induced voltage from other circuits, pretty common. Wasn't really an issue until we started using LED lamps and they started flickering when switched off.
 
PaullyC said:
Reading page 6 of the 2013 Part P on the government website it does not mention Kitchen as a special location. Is this the case please?
Click to expand...
kitchens are not special locations and as such do not applytopart. unless new circuits are involved. as for the fan.some fans , when 1st powered up, need to be left running till they stop. then should work OK.
 
Thanks. That’s what I thought but an ekectrician was trying to tell me otherwise even when I showed him wording of bathroom and all the dimensikns part P quotes.

I have a new one now which works. Think timer was duff.
 
I have a current EICR. I am getting my cu replaced so they are all RCBos.

One electrician says he can use my current EICR. Another is saying I need a new one.

Could anyone help please? What does the rule book say?
 
An EICR is like an MOT and is only really valid for the time it was carried out.

For a CU change I would still be carrying out some basic testing to identify any potential problems such as failing insulation, borrowed neutrals, dodgy DIY installs etc. Do the CU change and issue an EIC.
 
Hi Paully - can I ask why you are having this update - if it's because of problems then perhaps get those addressed first? I'd be thrilled to have a report to work off :)
 
It is all on one RCD which is the switch also. So it’s a pain if it trips. I am having a bsthroom re done so thought made sense to do it while I had some funds.

I also want all RCBos
 
PaullyC said:
I have a current EICR. I am getting my cu replaced so they are all RCBos.

One electrician says he can use my current EICR. Another is saying I need a new one.

Could anyone help please? What does the rule book say?
Click to expand...

The rule book says a change of fuseboard must be certificated by issuing a Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) and as you are in England this falls under Part P of the building regs so please ensure that the sparky can self certify and notify....
 

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