Discuss New electric cooker causing power to trip at fuse. The fuse is reluctant to flick back on after. in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi all.

Thank you all in advance for your help and advice.

I was hoping to get some help and advice on a cooker issue I'm experiencing.

My cooker is "brand new" and I recently had it installed by my father inlaw (competent tradesman although not an electrician)

The cooker is brand new but actually 3 years old... this is because it's an ex display oven from a hardware store (wife works there)

The Cooker will work fine for 20 uses. No issues whatsoever.

But we have had 4 occasions where we haven't been able to use it.

What was happening was we would turn the cooker on and it would trip 10 seconds later. Then we would put power back on then try again and it would trip 4 or 5 times before we sack it off for beans on toast.

We were not using the hob at the same time.

I will also add that when it happened last time the fuse wouldn't come back on. In fact most.times It trips for this reason I have to flick the fuse up multiple times.... that's another point it doesn't trip the rcd it trips everything at the fuse

I found one website that suggested the fuse not wanting to come back on can suggest an earth fault.

I was thinking maybe the wiring came loose in the back of the oven or the sockets maybe.

It can't be the element cause it will work for 20 times on full load with not a single issue and the fact it's brand new really.

I can't see it being an element issue but I'm hoping a knowlegable electrician may have an idea or a way to eliminate possibilities.

The key points are
  • I can use the cooker most of the time
  • It mostly trips immediately but can be 90 seconds after powering up
  • I am not running anything at the same time
  • The power trips to the whole house but the fuse board where it is on a separate fuse remains in the "on" position when it trips the electricity.
  • When I try and flick the power back on at the fuse I sometimes have to do it 6 or 7 times for it to actually come back on.
  • The old cooker never did this so the mains wiring can't be faulty surely.
I really appreciate any help. I am able to use it now but I did trip the power when I first turned it on tonight.

Thank you all in advance and apologies of this isn't the right forum.

Cooker is an AEG competence double oven.

Stephen
 
think this one needs a site visit.there's a few possibilities could be the problem.
 
Can you please tell us what the cookers wattage rating is and what the MCB rating is?
 
Do you know if there’s anything else on the kitchen spur circuit or is it exclusive to the cooker?
 
Earth fault. The 80A rccb is slightly more sensitive than the 63 in the CU even tho both are 30mA

An electrician will have test equipment to test the units, and the cooker.
Ex shelf display models can be a little glitchy just with sitting in a shop. Dust, damp etc.
 
RCD roulette. 30mA up front alongside a 30mA in the CU.

Fault on the oven/wiring to the oven.

Could it be a damp element again?
You could be onto something here pal. Cooker was taken from a display kitchen 2 years ago. Been stored under the stairs since then. And was installed 1 month ago.

Understairs cupboard isn't exactly damp.... but it was there a while.
 
To clarify, that Crabtree RCD may no longer be required, only a site visit will say for sure. It may be possible to remove or change to a 100mA, again a site visit will be required.

The RCD on the cooker side of your consumer unit should be tripping first but as the two are of the same sensitivity it's a guessing game as to which will trip.

This does not resolve the fault but will stop the whole house going down when a fault occurs.

The fault is likely to be with the oven, and more prcicely an element within it. These elements will absorb moisture if left used in damp conditions. This can be tested to prove and can be resolved by drying out through use..

Unfortunately until it dries out it will continue to trip your hole house to to the upfront RCD.
 
The two switches are probably a bit wider than a standard accessory plate, and the back box is a twin-1-gang, rather than two separate 1-gangs spaced apart. Hence something has to sit on top of something else!
 
You need to have ALL circuits IR tested by an electrician, the cooker may be a red herring as if there is a N-E fault anywhere on your installation this can cause tripping only when a heavy load (such as your cooker) is on, misleading the uninitiated to assume the cooker is at fault. Of course it could be the cooker, but I recently attended a tripping fault where a perfectly good shower had been replaced because it only tripped when the shower was on.....and continued to trip when the new shower was used. Fault was on an outside light.
 

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