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Discuss How many downlights in a room? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

My designs tend to be based on where the ceiling joists are ?
Spot on. First and most important question to be asked when planning to install downlighters in my book. There are lots of variables that provide flexibility when installing downlighters but the joists really are bottom line. Then design the layout so you totally eradicate the need for any repairs to ceiling (with the exception of the existing ceiling rose which might require a MF JB and a touch up. Though many are happy to let the rose minus the pendent)
 
1 yard or thereabouts between each light. no light closer than 2 ft. from a wall. some sort of attempt to get them in straight line/s. works for me.
 
My designs tend to be based on where the ceiling joists are ?

If planning a kitchen make sure you take into account units that go right up to the ceiling or there abouts ?
Both very important points. I've seen downlights carved into the side of joists, and downlights illuminating the dust on top of tall cupboards.
 
Last time I did a rewire it was still a pendant in the middle of the ceiling. However a friend asked me to wire a new build house he was building for his retirement so I had some lessons to learn.
I agree with the comments above about wall colour height of ceiling etc but for general lighting with all white walls and modern ceiling height, I worked on each fitting lighting a 2x2 meter area of floor and found that this worked well, but as above, position of the joists was important. Also I avoided putting fittings above the head of where a bed was going. You don't want to be lying in bed with a light in you face. There were other lights such as wall lights in the living room and cabinet lights in the kitchen, but I treated them as extras. I also used good quality fire and acoustic fittings with separate lamps. I have had cases where one fitting fails and you cant get an exact replacement so all the fitting in the room have to be changed. Another reason for wanting replaceable lamps was in case my 'design' wasn't bright enough, I could just fit higher powered lamps.
Two years on my friend is still happy with the lighting.
 
Both very important points. I've seen downlights carved into the side of joists, and downlights illuminating the dust on top of tall cupboards.
Reminds me of a song "I'v seen sunshine I'v seen rain"

But the above only happens when the installation is not designed its just put up where someone thinks it ought to go, no excuse except maybe for the first hole that may hit a solid strut that was used instead of herringbone, there are not many ceilings that with a high powered narrow beam torch you can't identify the line of the board or spotting of the nails, there are some, but not many.
 
Reminds me of a song "I'v seen sunshine I'v seen rain"

But the above only happens when the installation is not designed its just put up where someone thinks it ought to go, no excuse except maybe for the first hole that may hit a solid strut that was used instead of herringbone, there are not many ceilings that with a high powered narrow beam torch you can't identify the line of the board or spotting of the nails, there are some, but not many.

Neodymium magnets will find just about every joist.
 
As above, use neodymiium magnets. They will find the screws, and hence where your joists are. You can even leave them stuck to the screw heads while you're working stuff out.

Have a google of the studbuddy tool. Careful how you search though :)
 
As above, use neodymiium magnets. They will find the screws, and hence where your joists are. You can even leave them stuck to the screw heads while you're working stuff out.

Have a google of the studbuddy tool. Careful how you search though :)
+1 for the studbuddy
 
told you i was bilingual. but i don'tever use metric. just learnt to live with it to keep up with the young sprogs.
 

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