How to install downlights in this room

[Steve T]

Hi all,
Getting the utility room redone at this project house and the misses is absolutely adamant she wants downlights. Couple of reasons for this, firstly better light spread across the room since its long and narrow, secondly ceiling is very low (only around 2m) so I actually hit the existing pendant and I'm 5'9. Doesn't fancy a batten type fitting, which is fair enough since they do look quite commercial.

However with the loft hatch being where it is, even putting a 60⁰ beam angle downlight right next to it would leave the area by the door a bit dark and shadowy, which is the problem we were trying to solve.

So I am wondering what peoples thoughts would be on putting a downlight actually in the loft door?

It would have to be on a separate flexible cable run towards the hinge end but in theory it might be ok and it's not like the door is being used everyday? Unusual setup sure but in theory is anything wrong with it from an electrical perspective, obviously cosmetically would just have to be tested and might look too weird.

Thoughts appreciated, or any other suggestions but she is quite set on downlights or at least some kind of lights that are flush to the ceiling.
Thanks!

 

[Other_Tucker]

That loft thatch looks massive from one photo and tiny from the other way like 2 different rooms.

I'd put 4 in, 2 close-ish to the loft hatch and 2 half way from them to the window. Put bright ones in and when she moans about it being too bright show her the dimmer switch. Then she can be right about how bright it should be and wont get to complaining about the placement.

 

[nicebutdim]

Looking at those drawings, there's not much scope to obtain good lighting from downlights.

Maybe some driveway lights in the floor would be more effective

 

[Steve T]

That loft thatch looks massive from one photo and tiny from the other way like 2 different rooms.

I'd put 4 in, 2 close-ish to the loft hatch and 2 half way from them to the window. Put bright ones in and when she moans about it being too bright show her the dimmer switch. Then she can be right about how bright it should be and wont get to complaining about the placement.

Yeah the photos are in 0.5x zoom to try to get the whole room in so are a bit misleading. The hatch is actually unusually big though as a hot water cylinder needs to be able to fit through it, can't remember the exact dimension but don't think it's far off a meter square.

I don't think I can put 4 like you suggest as the width is so narrow especially once the top cabinets are taken into account, so would have to be all be in a row. As for the brightness could use GU10 fittings of course but have used a lot of and grown to rather like the collingwood H2 lites they've got a nice spacious terminal box and good light output. I'm sure she won't complain

 

[Steve T]

Looking at those drawings, there's not much scope to obtain good lighting from downlights.

Maybe some driveway lights in the floor would be more effective

Nope and really any aesthetically nice lighting isn't ideal for the room. I'm hoping the undercabinet lights will be fairly bright to light the countertop well at least, they will be switched with the main wall switch so easy to turn them on with downlights.

 

[ipf]

Scattergun effect.......put them where you need them.....away from joists, of course.

Did actually come across a light fitted to a loft hatch once.
When you went into the loft, you propped the hatch up against the roof timbers, and it doubled up as an effective loft light.

Batten lampholder on a plug in lead?

 

[nicebutdim]

Batten lampholder on a plug in lead?

My father's preferred method of lighting.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Lots of different tilt and turn down lights available, put them opposite the area you wish to light and tilt them towards the work area, just one example: 240v GU10 LED Adjustable Downlight - White | Knightsbridge (SGZ10W) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GUAD50W.html

110 deg GU10 lamps: 5 Watt 110° GU10 SMD LED Ceramic High Output Lamp - Daylight White | LEDlite (LTSM5DL) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTSM5DL.html

 

[littlespark]

With having lights under the units, id say you only need 3 downlights equidistant in the ceiling.... but one would be right where the hatch is.

Can the hatch be made smaller, or moved to between light positions?


Looking at the photos..... i cant see cables in yet for the under unit lights.

 

[Steve T]

With having lights under the units, id say you only need 3 downlights equidistant in the ceiling.... but one would be right where the hatch is.

Can the hatch be made smaller, or moved to between light positions?


Looking at the photos..... i cant see cables in yet for the under unit lights.

The hatch definitely can't be smaller as it needs to be big enough to fit a hot water cylinder through it when it inevitably needs replacing one day. As for moving it, its physically doable but it's currently in a position with maximum headspace above which is still only maybe 4-5ft so wouldn't really want any less. Basically I think we just need to work around it.

So thanks to advice here what we're thinking is 3 downlights, first one a tiltable one right next to the long side of the loft hatch and then 2 other standard ones. Putting one next to the wall isn't really possible, I've checked the joists above and there just isn't enough clearance. We may also put a small wall light above the door if that end is too dark.

As for the undercabinet lights wiring, the kitchen company have told us they're using 12v lights so will just run the 12v cables up the back of the the cabinets to connect up to the driver in a box in the loft space. No space above the cabinets as they butt up to the ceiling. Coils of cable have been left at the respective positions.

 

[pirate]

Use some 100 degree GU10s

 

[brianmoooore]

Batten lampholder on a plug in lead?

Nope! Batten holder on T&E, wired into circuit, with a fair bit of slack.

 

[brianmoooore]

Lots of different tilt and turn down lights available, put them opposite the area you wish to light and tilt them towards the work area,

I tend to use these anyway. I prefer the look, with the concentric circle effect, they can be aimed if desired, and the bigger cut out allows me to get my hand up into the ceiling void to find wires that the plasterer has pushed up out of his way.