Discuss Bathroom extractor fan without fuse in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Totally agree.I think that the makers put an FCU (with a 3amp fuse) in their diagrams to cater for where the fan is powered from a ring final and the fan and the connecting wiring need to be protected from a fault current limited only by a 32amp MCB.
IMO there is no need to 'fuse down' a fan supplied from a 6amp lighting circuit. There are squillions of them installed like that, everywhere, many of them by me.
This is true but what are the chances.Some non timed fans ask for 1A fuse, manufacturers requirement takes president so if you installed incorrectly, customer could insist you carry out a costly upgrade to comply at your cost. If you don't tell client you are leaving yourself legally exposed. Is it worth risking your business for a fan?
The point of the fuse is to provide overcurrent protection not fault protection.If it's keeping you awake I'd pop an inline fuseholder inside the fan itself, can't say I'd ever bother myself as like said it's debatable a 3A 1361 fuse would beat a B6 MCB anyway.
Or you could do like barratt homes and stick a sw/f/sp marked "fan" that in fact controls the whole bathroom lights & all and completely miss the whole point of having a fan isolator and causes the likes of me to spend an hour trying to trace a break in a circuit before realising what amateur fwits I'm following around.
Which pole of the TP isolator does the fuse protect, switch live or permanent live.If he uses a fused TP&N isolator, he's just has to put in a suitably sized fuse
Sounds a right performance.you can wire it in a way that the fuse is in line with the perm and switched live of the fan by using a double pole light switch. Excel 3 Pole Fused Fan Isolator Switch - White | QVS Electrical Wholesalers - http://www.qvsdirect.com/excel-3-pole-fused-fan-isolator-switch-white
no probs mateAha, I was just looking for that after trawling through fan specs, most helpful, thanks very much.
no not really if your chucking the cables in on a 1st fix.Sounds a right performance.
Hi H, you are not alone. Lee's 3 pole fused isolator is one of the many neat things I have learnt here. CheersIve been out the loop for10ish years and slowly getting back into it all again because it gives me something to focus on; the non fused fan isolators were familiar, never seen these fused ones until now;
With Tin Hat On, I'm hoping I've got it : the unit has a separate fuse to the 3 pole switch so we can fuse the incoming L and then split it into L for the fan (via 3pole) and send L off to the other half of the new DP light sw, when it comes back it goes into as SL (via the 3pole). Clear as mud ?I don't get these fused triple-pole switches, they only fuse one of the poles so what is the point. May as well use a standard triple-pole switch with a two gang grid with two fuses fitted. Am I misreading this.
could do but will look rubbish.I don't get these fused triple-pole switches, they only fuse one of the poles so what is the point. May as well use a standard triple-pole switch with a two gang grid with two fuses fitted. Am I misreading this.
Spot onWith Tin Hat On, I'm hoping I've got it : the unit has a separate fuse to the 3 pole switch so we can fuse the incoming L and then split it into L for the fan (via 3pole) and send L off to the other half of the new DP light sw, when it comes back it goes into as SL (via the 3pole). Clear as mud ?
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