UK Drilled into wire in kitchen

[Dave H99]

Hi all - been an idiot / schoolboy error - drilled into a wire that drops down to a fused spur socket in the kitchen (for washing machine I think) - blew 30A fuse for downstairs sockets and tripped RCD. The wire is behind plasterboard.
Any advice on what the repair should be would be appreciated before I call someone in.
Any idea what this should cost?

 

[littlespark]

is this the single cable that runs from an isolating switch above worktop to a socket below?

Is the damage below worktop height? You could bring the cable out the plaster and make a joint in a joint box onto a new piece of cable to the socket.
If it ends up hidden, it can be run surface.

If it’s part of the main ring before it gets to an isolator, thats a bit more complicated.

Should be a couple of hours work, but that depends on where the fault is.


If you post a photo… we love a good giggle.

 

[James]

As above, couple of hours for a decent spark to fix it.
if it is a nice easy one, could be in and out within the hour.
parts cost will be negligible.
p.s. Don’t feel to bad about it, these things happen.
if you never make a mistake, it just means you have spent your life doing nothing!!

 

[Dave H99]

is this the single cable that runs from an isolating switch above worktop to a socket below?

Is the damage below worktop height? You could bring the cable out the plaster and make a joint in a joint box onto a new piece of cable to the socket.
If it ends up hidden, it can be run surface.

If it’s part of the main ring before it gets to an isolator, thats a bit more complicated.

Should be a couple of hours work, but that depends on where the fault is.


If you post a photo… we love a good giggle.

 

[westward10]

If it is behind plasterboard it could be quite straightforward to replace the cable.

 

[Dave H99]

This is the cable that runs to the isolator i.e. before the 13A socket for the washing machine. Pic attached shows where the cable is damaged in relation to the isolating switch. Makes me cringe looking at it - couldn't be more in line with the isolator switch.

 

[James]

If you were thinking about wall mounting the tv, a socket where you have drilled the hole would be a great way to fix the damage and would be hidden nicely by the tv.

 

[Dave H99]

As above, couple of hours for a decent spark to fix it.
if it is a nice easy one, could be in and out within the hour.
parts cost will be negligible.
p.s. Don’t feel to bad about it, these things happen.
if you never make a mistake, it just means you have spent your life doing nothing!!

Would it be a case of the cable being repaired or would it need a new length installing - hopefully the former or be a lot more cost involved?

 

[timhoward]

This is the cable that runs to the isolator i.e. before the 13A socket for the washing machine. Pic attached shows where the cable is damaged in relation to the isolating switch. Makes me cringe looking at it - couldn't be more in line with the isolator switch.

Looks like plasterboard. It won't be a difficult or expensive fix. As James said the absolute easiest would be if you happened to have a valid reason for a socket at that height or above it. If the cable is reasonably loose it might also be possible to put a 1 gang blanking plate towards the top of a wall.
Materials will be negligible. It's more about getting to the problem and making good.

 

[Dave H99]

Looks like plasterboard. It won't be a difficult or expensive fix. As James said the absolute easiest would be if you happened to have a valid reason for a socket at that height or above it. If the cable is reasonably loose it might also be possible to put a 1 gang blanking plate towards the top of a wall.
Materials will be negligible. It's more about getting to the problem and making good.

Juist been quoted around £70 - Electrician said probably using a Wago box to repair?

 

[westward10]

I suspect that cable could be fully replaced.

 

[Julie.]

Juist been quoted around £70 - Electrician said probably using a Wago box to repair?

Tbh as it's plasterboard, the best, quickest, and easiest would be to pull a new length through using the existing cable and re-terminate each end.

No repair to the wall needed then.

Cable of that length would be way cheaper than a wago box and joints.

 

[timhoward]

Are we all on the same page that this is the feed side not the load?

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Are we all on the same page that this is the feed side not the load?

That's what I assumed. I'd expect the cable goes up the wall, horizontally through the ceiling void, then down (or perhaps up) to the next point on the circuit. I can't see a new cable being pulled through that route, not without a few holes being cut. Wagobox is how I'd tackle this.

 

[timhoward]

That's what I assumed. I'd expect the cable goes up the wall, horizontally through the ceiling void, then down (or perhaps up) to the next point on the circuit. I can't see a new cable being pulled through that route, not without a few holes being cut. Wagobox is how I'd tackle this.

Only other option I could see is if by some miracle there was easy access to floor boards above, or (depending on flooring) an SBC access hole above.