I'm looking for advice on best cost effective solution to split a daisy chain of downlights.

[MauroB]

I'm looking for advice on what you think would be the best cost effective solution. I intend to pay an electrician to do all connections but would like to have in mind the best solution before I bring them in. The cealing is plasterboard and the wall is blocks for switch 1 and switch A, plasterboard for Switch 2. I would like to do the least amount of wall/ceiling repair. I'm willing to use smart switch solutions if cost effective.

The goal is to split the daisy chain so I can switch on/of lights 6 & 7 (which are above my dining table) separately from 1,2,3,4,5,8,9 & 10.

Apologies for my English and non-electrician terms in advance!

I have 10 4.4W LED Collingwood H2 Lite downlights (1 - 10 in the drawing) connected as a daisychain using Scolmore Flow CT101C connectors to a switch (wall switch 1) there's also a two way switch (wall switch 2). There's also 3 separate downlights of the same type nearby with a switch (A, B, C and Wall Switch A in the drawing).



I was thinking to change the order in which the daisy chain is connected so lights 1,6,7 are the first lights in the daisy chain (in that order), and the rest go from 7 to 8 (with a smart switch like Sonoff R2 between them) to control the lights connected 8, 5, 4, 3, 2 & 8,9,10. That way I can switch on 1,6,7 (albeit I just need 6 & 7 - I can live with 1 being on) from the wall and set the Sonoff to stay off the the switch goes on. I can the switch the rest of the lights from the app whn needed as they are not used very frequently.

An alternative similar solution would be to chain the daisy chain order in so lights 6 & 7 are connected to A, B C and maybe put a Sonoff R2 between C & 7.

I'm looking to read all your suggestions and pro-cons to try to come-up with the easiest, safest, most cost effective solution.

Besides the drawing above I attached photos of 2 of the 3 switches the light spec and connector.

Thank you for your comments.

 

[littlespark]

Apologies for delay in response. Holiday season and all that.

So, existing setup is all lights, controlled from both ends of room? (2 way switching)
One of those switches looks very busy, and the less dabbling around in there the better.

You might also need to confirm the daisy chain pattern. Is it connected as you’ve drawn it, or do the cables run eg 1,6,7,8,5,2,3,4,9,10?

My experienced brain tells me to hard wire everything, but that of course would create holes that need patched.

You could use smart relays…. (Eg quinetic) but it would be a costly venture.
However, if you change the dining area around, you could remap the relays easily so different lights come on to suit the layout.

Maybe change the fittings to ones that have replaceable lamps and use smart bulbs.

 

[MauroB]

Apologies for delay in response. Holiday season and all that.

So, existing setup is all lights, controlled from both ends of room? (2 way switching)
One of those switches looks very busy, and the less dabbling around in there the better.

You might also need to confirm the daisy chain pattern. Is it connected as you’ve drawn it, or do the cables run eg 1,6,7,8,5,2,3,4,9,10?

My experienced brain tells me to hard wire everything, but that of course would create holes that need patched.

You could use smart relays…. (Eg quinetic) but it would be a costly venture.
However, if you change the dining area around, you could remap the relays easily so different lights come on to suit the layout.

Maybe change the fittings to ones that have replaceable lamps and use smart bulbs.

Thank you for the response. Yes, all downlights are controlled from a switch at either end of the room (2 way).

I have confirmed the daisy chain pattern.

Changing them all for smart bulbs/fittings might be as expensive as a smart relay.

I was thinking more to change the pattern and add 2 or 3 wires to come up with a solution where I can use 1 or 2 smart switches but don't know if there are many cons.

This would be one option for example.

Thank you again.

 

[UNG]

While the simple solution is to "just add a few wires" the actually reality is that adding those wires without causing significant damage could be relatively easy or impossible to do or have a degree of difficulty somewhere in between the two depending on the construction of the walls and how accessible the ceiling void is
The problem with jobs like this while pictures can be good without eyes on site the pictures will always miss something important that may influence how the job can be done. The other issue it is viewed a simple job and therefore it will be cheap to do and that is not always the case

 

[MauroB]

While the simple solution is to "just add a few wires" the actually reality is that adding those wires without causing significant damage could be relatively easy or impossible to do or have a degree of difficulty somewhere in between the two depending on the construction of the walls and how accessible the ceiling void is
The problem with jobs like this while pictures can be good without eyes on site the pictures will always miss something important that may influence how the job can be done. The other issue it is viewed a simple job and therefore it will be cheap to do and that is not always the case

Thanks. I have access to all the light connectors (as per the photo with the light dropped) and it's relatively easy to pass the wire between the light openings as there's a large void above the plasterboard ceiling.

 

[UNG]

Thanks. I have access to all the light connectors (as per the photo with the light dropped) and it's relatively easy to pass the wire between the light openings as there's a large void above the plasterboard ceiling.

Where in the UK are you located