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Midwest

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I've done a search on above, but doesn't appear to be many recent posts. What make of voltage tester are you using. I have Dilog Combivolt, the lead from the main body has become exposed. Not very good with less than two years of service. Anything more robust?
 
fluke T3 about 15 years old for general use, and a fluke T5-1000 for posey jobs.
 
posh clients. where you wipe your feet going in instead of when coming out.
 
Thanks chaps, John Drummond...still got my somewhere in the garage, if I could find it. Don't think I could afford the T5 1000, my clients aren't that posh! That T50 looks like it has the same lead entry as my Dilog. So I'll keep looking.
 
Thanks chaps, John Drummond...still got my somewhere in the garage, if I could find it. Don't think I could afford the T5 1000, my clients aren't that posh! That T50 looks like it has the same lead entry as my Dilog. So I'll keep looking.

get some S/A tape on them leads, you jessie! :49:
 
can't wear them steel toecaps. after 4 hours in them, i'm crippled.
 
can only ever remember once had something land on my toes. it was a full bottle of single malt which i dropped. had to stick my foot out to break it's fall.
 
the bottle survived intact but bruised my big toe. i call that a winner.
 
my T5-1000 was a bargain then, at £50. got it from a forum member. still, not as good a buy as my canon 40D camera (see thread in photographic section).
 
only ever used the incoming terminals as a proving unit, apart from once when i got the ex-wife to breathe on it.
 
Just to remind you of the dangers of not using testers... you may end up with a postumous fine!

Stupid fine.jpg
 
Mike nice bit of kit, but if you are using it for proving dead, live safe isolation then IMO you can't beat a proper voltage indicator and proving unit, or am I being an old foggy? probably

Hi Pete999,

I have also got a Megger MPU690 proving unit, I don't see any point getting a voltage indicator also as I can use the proving unit with my T5-1000 or am I wrong?

Michael
 
nothing wrong with using a t5 for proving safe. it's only the fuddy-duddys that were brought up on a bike light on cotton flex that will object to new-fangled technology.
 
have to make do with a pine coffin rather than solid oak or mahogany.
 
I asked the same question not so long ago. I ended up getting a Fluke T150, which I think cost me about £50, plus another £20 for a case for it.
It's alright, it's got a self-test and automatically switches between voltage and continuity, it has a light on it and tests phase rotation, but some of the guys here prefer a reading instead of an LED lighting up.
My only real problem with it is I'd prefer a resistance reading instead of just a beep, but maybe I'm just being fussy.
I think the next tester I'll get will be the T5, like everyone else seems to have.
 
I was thinking more like plywood lol

plywood? bloody luxury. chipboard or mdf for complete naff cheap. i'm going 1 better and having an ex-wardrobe. it's only going to be burnt anyway.
 
beer don't come in boxes big enough. suppose i could sellotape a dozen together though.
 
Hi Pete999,

I have also got a Megger MPU690 proving unit, I don't see any point getting a voltage indicator also as I can use the proving unit with my T5-1000 or am I wrong?

Michael
I was at Elex in Coventry last year and had a discussion with some test meter exhibitors and the consensus was that the testers with the test facility only test the electronics of the tester, not the voltage you are applying.

Now I don't profess to be an expert but you have to ask yourself the question, there may be people on this forum who know better, I an only going from what I have been told, and if anyone can point me to the contrary I will cede to their knowledge.

However as I only have a Martindale and a Drummond test lamps it makes no odds to me, but if as I said anyone can confirm my thoughts I will change my opinion. Look forward to some replies
 
Kinda agree. The T5 and similar, are only like a mini MFT. To prove safe, I'd prefer to use something that I can't mistakenly get the dials wrong. Might just go for a T90. Anyhow, I might have to use some S/A tape on my old one as telectrix suggested, as I've just forked out on a flipping BYB!
 
beer don't come in boxes big enough. suppose i could sellotape a dozen together though.

When I had the Flightcase business one of my crew built himself a flightcase coffin.

I sold him all the bits at cost +50% and he made it in his own time. He got a bargain and I got some beer. Happy happy happy.

I've not seen him for a few years so don't know if he's using it yet.
 
When I had the Flightcase business one of my crew built himself a flightcase coffin.

I sold him all the bits at cost +50% and he made it in his own time. He got a bargain and I got some beer. Happy happy happy.

I've not seen him for a few years so don't know if he's using it yet.
let me guess, he sleeps in it
 
I asked the same question not so long ago. I ended up getting a Fluke T150, which I think cost me about £50, plus another £20 for a case for it.
It's alright, it's got a self-test and automatically switches between voltage and continuity, it has a light on it and tests phase rotation, but some of the guys here prefer a reading instead of an LED lighting up.
My only real problem with it is I'd prefer a resistance reading instead of just a beep, but maybe I'm just being fussy.
I think the next tester I'll get will be the T5, like everyone else seems to have.

The T150 can do resistance testing up to 1999Ohms. A handy bit of kit imo.
 

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Midwest

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Voltage Tester
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Engineer54,
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