R

Roger

Ok what is best practice ?
When fitting a room out with downlighters in the ceiling and doing it with a loop in loop out method what is correct.
Most lights I fit are Click brand and always come with a blue 3 pin block so its easy as terminals are large enough to fit the wires in and out.Job looks neat at the end of the day.

I have been to a number of installs where they have been installed with just wago's loose in the ceiling,not in a wago JB.Cable tie round cables so ok ish ?

Others just have choc blocks with insulating tape round them.Some don't even have any tape.

A lot of the time there is no access above so all work is done from below and chasing bits of plaster away across the beams.And I guess it saves money just using choc blocks,mind you how much is a junction box.also with 12volt lights the earth is not even in the box or choc blocks ,it is just bent back and left bare !

Also when you come to something like with just choc blocks what should you do ? leave alone,repair .I guess first you tell the client.

I did repair a light in the week and while fishing around to find the beam and a suitable place to hang it from,i got a shock where wires had just been left exposed ! they were too short to get a purchase on so i had to chip away the ceiling to terminate properley.
I could not access to above as it was a tiled bathroom,so i could do no more really.

anyway comments welcome
 
Choc block is NOT acceptable - and is NOT classed as a permanent connection.

Wagos, good, but should be in a WAGO JB.

Best option, click blocks, as you say, or the WAGO equivalent.

With 12V lighting.....I always put transformers in an earthed metal PSU box.....or a plastic one, in an accessible location, and take wiring out into DIN connectors.... just preference, but safest, and easiest for maintenance.....ALSO, I always mark 12V cable with indelible pen along its length.....
 
I always prefer to use wagos but a wago box is essential. If I didn't have the box then I wouldn't use them.
 
Twin and earths into a chocbox (or Wagobox, still havent tried my sample yet), heat resistant flex out to fitting.

Connections in chocbox done with Wago's.

Cheers Sy
 
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i use the 2" standard J/Bs, screw terms. H/R flex out to downlight. tried helacons, but old habits die hard.
 
A lot of the time there is no access above so all work is done from below and chasing bits of plaster away across the beams.

I've only come across this once or twice, haven't done it myself yet, can see why it's been done this way, but - is this OK?
 
I've only come across this once or twice, haven't done it myself yet, can see why it's been done this way, but - is this OK?
if it's the only way, as long as circuit is RCD protected, (50mm rule, buried in plaster)
 
telectrix gone tell mke exactly where you cut the ceiling when adding down lights from below? your the man.

are you adding in more battens along side the the joist.. just cant picture it , helppppp
 
find the joists, chip plaster from under joists and about 1" to each side. fish cable from one joist to another, wire up lights, clip cable to underside of joists, tub of poyfiller, bit of rag to blend to match artex if required, jobs a good'un.
 
do you the put strip of plaster board back in, then polly fill.

so if was pentant would would you just extend off that using wagos or something
 
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When fitting downlights I generally use the 16a Ashley, hager junction boxes which have same terminals as a pendant loop in and out in the top and one coming out the bottom to the fitting. Find this is the neatest and safest way.

They also have cable clamps so fulfills the regs and aslong as you leave enough slack so it's accessible for maintenance it complies.
 
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Wago's , junction boxes and choc blocks whats best with downlighters
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