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waterproof crimp spade connectors with IP56 rating?

Discuss waterproof crimp spade connectors with IP56 rating? in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

M

mascip

Hi, I don't manage to find crimp connectors (spade, bullet, etc) with a stated IP rating. Do they exist, and if yes where do you find them?

I'm thinking of using IP56 spade connectors for a tunnel light on a narrow boat.
 
What voltage are we talking here?

Any chance of a pic upload as it would save a thousand questions....
 
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It's a 12V system. I won't be on the boat until Friday, so cannot take pictures right now.

I guess my question is also general: whenever I need to connect something outside of the boat (always 12V), and need to use a spade connector, then how can I achieve IP56 rating? I was hoping for some crimp connectors that would do that. For example I found IP67 butt solder connectors if I need to connect wires (I don't know whether I'm allowed to share a link here or not, as it's in an online shop): it's cheaper than a box and easier to install. I was wondering whether something similar exists for spade connectors.
 
I don't think it would be physically possible to waterproof a spade connection other than heat shrink over the cable entry and packing the spade with Vaseline or simillar
 
That makes sense: there are two parts to the connection.

For the heat shrink part, I haven't found any IP67 heat shrink, nor IP56. So I guess my quest is hopeless. I could use glue lined heat shrink, which will hopefully make it dustproof, and perhaps provide some water protection. Better than nothing.

Oh!!! By being stubborn and doing more research online, I found this document: http://www.tnb.com/pubint/docs/shrinkkon_eu.pdf
It seems to indicate that most heat shrink tubing provides IP60 (dust proof), and that some with thermoplastic lining provide IP65 or IP67.

Good, being stubborn! Now I need to find where to actually buy these...
 
That makes sense: there are two parts to the connection.

For the heat shrink part, I haven't found any IP67 heat shrink, nor IP56. So I guess my quest is hopeless. I could use glue lined heat shrink, which will hopefully make it dustproof, and perhaps provide some water protection. Better than nothing.

Oh!!! By being stubborn and doing more research online, I found this document: http://www.tnb.com/pubint/docs/shrinkkon_eu.pdf
It seems to indicate that most heat shrink tubing provides IP60 (dust proof), and that some with thermoplastic lining provide IP65 or IP67.

Good, being stubborn! Now I need to find where to actually buy these...

Heatshrink can't be given an IP rating because as a product it is just a hollow plastic tube!
However it can be used to achieve a degree of waterproofing in making electrical connections.
I'm assuming that what you want is to make a connection waterproof, not develop a product and have it tested to meet a specific IP rating.
 
Whilst on the subject of heat shrink.. What heat gun is recommended?
I remember using these on for shrinking joint boots on wiring looms years ago..
The guns we used then had a curved reflector to dissipate the hot air all around the subject.
 
Thank you for all the comments.

Agreed: heat shrink tubing in itself doesn't have an IP rating. But apparently (according to the link above), when applied correctly it does achieve an IP rating. Some of them of IP67, which is more than what I want. I just hadn't found this information before.

I will start using more glue lined heat shrink tubing :)
 
Make sure you are also using a decent Crimp Tool as well.
 
If it's 12v can't you just use a scotchlok type connector. The type that are filled with the silicon gel are meant for automotice and ELV marine applications

41Zyhwyw51L._SX425_.jpg
 
I would avoid using any kind of wiring terminal unenclosed outdoors. I used to install marine electrical equipment and never found it necessary to leave a crimp ring terminal to the mercy of the weather. It needs to be installed inside the casing of the device being connected, or the cable led out to a separate complete weatherproof connector assembly.

If you are adapting an automotive style fixture, then a heat-resistant flex can usually be taken completely inside and sealed to the casing, neither connection being made outside. Note that if the mounting bracket is connected to one lamp terminal then it should be isolated from the steelwork. As for sealed connections, I use a lot of adhesive-lined heatshrink, Duraseal (tm) heat-shrinkable sealed crimp terminals, and jelly-filled (proper) IDCs. Marvo, if you ever see me install a Scotchlok for a paying customer, please shoot me.
 
........Marvo, if you ever see me install a Scotchlok for a paying customer, please shoot me.
Awww Lucien don't be like that, you're just being a connector snob ;)

He did say it's a tunnel lamp so I'm guessing it's one of those long pointy canal type boats you English people like to drive around in so not really marine....well no swell and no salt at least......maybe acidic horse poo and champagne spray ... I'm sure Scotchloks would be fine :)
 
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Can't you just use a male and female 2 pin in line plug IP ratted Plug and remove the crimps
Masterplug Orange Connector 2-Pin | Outdoor Cable Reels | NoLinkingToThis
 
one of those long pointy canal type boats you English people like to drive around in so not really marine....well no swell and no salt at least

As it happens our own long pointy canal type boat is significantly marine, and has been quite a way out towards the long wide salty type sea, even to the point of not being able to see much landy type shore. The mild steel pins in the brass door hinges all seized solid after a bit but the lights kept on working because they don't rely any of those nasty plier-squashy type connectors.

The best shot I can find of our tunnely and spotty type lamps on the forwardy type bulkhead is this one although it's taken a weird angle that forshortens the boat so it looks about 6 feet long (I'm the one with the spiky type hair at the helmy type tiller). I fitted the 8 external lights - 4 nav, 2 spot & 2 tunnel - in 1990 and I have not once touched the connections since, except to change lamps.

The Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant Image Library
 
^^ :rofl: Seriously, I never knew those canal boats were also sea going, guess every day's a school day but I'm not sure they'd fare too well in the sea around here. Maybe a Scotchlok with an extra dollop of grease on it in that case :grin:
 
Thanks a lot for all the advice and ideas!

In the end we replaced that old halogen light by a brand new LED one (much brighter), with two proper wires coming out, so no need for a spade connector. It's not a sea going boat. We used insulated butt connectors sealed with glue-lined "waterproof" heat shrink tubing like this one: 4MM~52MM Adhesive Lined 4:1 Heat Shrink Tubing ROHS Waterproof | eBay

I ever need a spade connection outside, I will either go for a heat shrinkable sealed crimp connector, or use some of the same heat shrink tubing as above.
 

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