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This is a really basic question but I’m just wanted to make sure I have installed a security light correctly and safety. Basically I installed a security light today at my friends house. There was a spur in the bedroom that was no longer in use but was wired in with the ring main, there was no load as it use to be an old emersion heater that got ripped out. I drilled straight through the spur through to the outside then fed 0.75mm pond flex for the security light as the load. I then siliconed the holes. I changed the spurs fuse from a 13a fuse to a 3a fuse. After closely looking at the security light I realised that the light is already flexed up into the light fitting. The cable is far to short to reach through the brick wall into the spur and weirdly I can’t open the light fitting up. Is it ok for me to get an waterproof junction box and put both the pre wired flex into it with my 0.75mm pond flex? My friend said he would be fine with it this way as it would save him money buying an other light but would this be ok? Just wanting to make sure as I haven’t really got much experience with security lights.
 
Last edited:
IMMERSION heater, it's IMMERSION heater.
 
I assume you're an apprentice by your username but your profile doesn't let anyone view it. Can you change that setting and fill your profile in so the forum can help you better.

Yes a box such as a Wiska box would be appropriate for this job. Remember that a weatherproof enclosure is rated to its IP rating as bought. If you drill the back of it or use a knockout you will need to make sure the connections inside do not get weather to them.

Bottom entry knockouts with compression glands is the way to go with a wiska box
 
It should be on the curriculum at college, today my pupils we discuss the spelling of immersion heater. How many circuit charts do you see this spelt incorrectly.
[automerge]1573911689[/automerge]
Was a typo


:rolleyes::rolleyes::tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
I'm only jesting :)
 

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