tool repair

[D80]

As far as I am aware i=p/u is an apprentice. The best ears to bend then would be the sparks he is working with, would be ideal if one of them would lend a hand in looking at the drill.

 

[Knobhead]

Good point

 

[Guitarist]

Also Tony, what some of us might consider "basic" is quite complicated to those electricians who have only been involved in limited aspects of domestic installation. I know that many electricians have a technical, enquiring mind and are very knowledgable. Some however, can rewire a house and have it tested in double-quick time but have no technical knowledge beyond that.
Not a criticism of anyone, just how the profession is.

 

[i=p/u]

ok, fair points , when i pull the trigger the short is happening where the the windings are situated but i think everything else is in this compartment aswell, the copper doesnt look the shiniest , there is also a cage that turns which i think is the the rotor or stator or comutator hahah when i go home i will get the tester out and do IR test which is just going to tell me theres a short, its expieriece that will get me throught this, and make this free item a catch but i will try and ask questions from fellow workers and maybe find a diagram and try work it out.. i back at tech on thursday which my tutor is very knowledgable.. i know its a pie in the sky question asking on internet without somone looking... cheers

 

[i=p/u]

whats CR test tony and yes a big flash where windings are when push trigger. so id suggest armeture winding dont know why but just think this....

i=p/u, sorry but you’re a tradesman?
Haven’t you looked at it first before asking here?

Once you’ve cleared the muck out so you can see what’s what.

Check the cable as has been said.
The switch.
Comm’s often look burnt, but bright flash marks may indicate shorted armature windings. Check the brushes are OK for length and are free in the holders, a visual check of the armature and field windings usually give the game away as far as overheating is concerned. CR and IR tests will confirm.

Come on it’s basic stuff.

 

[Knobhead]

I hope you’ve got patience and a meter that can make low ohm readings. You need to test the resistance between each segment of the comm., hence the need for patience. To give better readings you can test between a gap of say 5 segments and work your way around. Your looking for equal readings all around the comm., you'll also be looking for the paracetamol. Any bright flashes on the comm. usually points to a shorted winding. If you do find any have a look for a new housing for it (wheelie bin, cardboard box).

As you say it was a freebie so what you got to loose by stripping it. You could gain a good drill.

 

[i=p/u]

aye i know, if you lived near me guess where id be, yes yours

 

[ipf]

Sometime in the future just think back to where you started on machine repairs. Another string to your bow.
I remember when I was a junior apprentice, a long time ago, maintenance contracting with my old fella, working on a massive factory where he had previously been electrical gaffa. He'd just set up on his own doing all sorts, from domestic to heavy industrial. The bloke then in charge sent me to sort out a machine breakdown and I didn't have a clue where to start (bricking myself). I had a word with the old man and he told me to clear my head and give it a go. After a while I found what I thought was a problem with a solenoid (pure luck) and reported back. I was met with a slow nod of the head and sent sent off to make about 15 brews. And I didn't dare get any of those brews wrong.

 

[Knobhead]

aye i know, if you lived near me guess where id be, yes yours

You’d be welcome, but it’s a bit of a long way to bring a drill.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

you could pat it...but dont forget that a pat tester conducts a `limited` IR test...thats L and N connected together to earth...so will not confirm short circuit....