First Day of AM2 exam finished! Just need alittle bit of help.

[RyanF]

first day done of my AM2 exam. Just wanted to let people know what I done and if I will loose any marks.

So first of all risk assessment and safe isolation. I completed the risk assessment no problem at all and the safe isolation I completed fine as well asked for permission to isolate, prove, test, prove, lock off and warning notices, key in pocket etc.

Install section:-

Lighting cicuit took 1.5mm twin and earth L and Neutral and cpc to my first switch, fed the common with my L and Neutral in the back switch. I then took a 3 core 1.5 to the second swith which was grey as my neutral which went into the back of the wago, brown as my S/L with brown tape and the other brown as my other S/L. To the intermideate I then took the 3 core and looped the Grey in the back as a Neutral again, then took my brown and black to the top or the intermediate. Again, sleeved correctly. Another 3 core out to my last switch done the same again brown/ black S/L and neutral into another wago. Then, 1.5 up to the light as my neutral in the wago and the brown into th common. All cpc linked in wago is back of switch as well. MCB 6 Amp Type B

Ring Main

2.5mm and 1.5mm cpc from db to first socket, though to the spur, and to the last socket, last socket then back to the db. Then took 2.5 and 1.5 to the outdoor socket on the load side of the Switched spur. Ring on a 32 amp RCBO type B.

Bonding
10mm for water and seperate for gas.
Gas to first part of the pipe before the T joint.
Water connection just after the stopcock/ first section of pipe. Back to the db seperate and labeled.

Fb 200

Supply from DB to non switched spur. From
Non switched spur up to co2 alarm. A seperate length of FB 200 On cable tray using P clips and bolted to the tray. tighting of glands etc also on a Mcb 6 amp type B.

3 phase and neutral isolator. 4 core 2.5mm from db to isolator, again banjo and glanded at both ends. Used 1.5mm cpc as bonding cable inside db for the banjo. Then 2.5mm 3 phase colours and 1.5mm cpc to commando socket. Then looped neutral in back of isolator using a wago. 3 phase and earth connections.

3 phase dol starter

3 phase, neutral and cpc to dol starter.
Sy 3 core and earth to motor box. Glanded off and cable tied to cable tray. Marked 1 as L1 , 2 as the Black phase and 3 as the Grey phase.

S heating plan ill do tommorow along with thermal overload to work out of the motor and the data points. I still have 3 hours left.

Does all sound good? Or any hints or tips on things ive missed out?

Inspection and testing tommorow and fault finding

Cheers!

 

[Pete999]

first day done of my AM2 exam. Just wanted to let people know what I done and if I will loose any marks.

So first of all risk assessment and safe isolation. I completed the risk assessment no problem at all and the safe isolation I completed fine as well asked for permission to isolate, prove, test, prove, lock off and warning notices, key in pocket etc.

Install section:-

Lighting cicuit took 1.5mm twin and earth L and Neutral and cpc to my first switch, fed the common with my L and Neutral in the back switch. I then took a 3 core 1.5 to the second swith which was grey as my neutral which went into the back of the wago, brown as my S/L with brown tape and the other brown as my other S/L. To the intermideate I then took the 3 core and looped the Grey in the back as a Neutral again, then took my brown and black to the top or the intermediate. Again, sleeved correctly. Another 3 core out to my last switch done the same again brown/ black S/L and neutral into another wago. Then, 1.5 up to the light as my neutral in the wago and the brown into th common. All cpc linked in wago is back of switch as well. MCB 6 Amp Type B

Ring Main

2.5mm and 1.5mm cpc from db to first socket, though to the spur, and to the last socket, last socket then back to the db. Then took 2.5 and 1.5 to the outdoor socket on the load side of the Switched spur. Ring on a 32 amp RCBO type B.

Bonding
10mm for water and seperate for gas.
Gas to first part of the pipe before the T joint.
Water connection just after the stopcock/ first section of pipe. Back to the db seperate and labeled.

Fb 200

Supply from DB to non switched spur. From
Non switched spur up to co2 alarm. A seperate length of FB 200 On cable tray using P clips and bolted to the tray. tighting of glands etc also on a Mcb 6 amp type B.

3 phase and neutral isolator. 4 core 2.5mm from db to isolator, again banjo and glanded at both ends. Used 1.5mm cpc as bonding cable inside db for the banjo. Then 2.5mm 3 phase colours and 1.5mm cpc to commando socket. Then looped neutral in back of isolator using a wago. 3 phase and earth connections.

3 phase dol starter

3 phase, neutral and cpc to dol starter.
Sy 3 core and earth to motor box. Glanded off and cable tied to cable tray. Marked 1 as L1 , 2 as the Black phase and 3 as the Grey phase.

S heating plan ill do tommorow along with thermal overload to work out of the motor and the data points. I still have 3 hours left.

Does all sound good? Or any hints or tips on things ive missed out?

Inspection and testing tommorow and fault finding

Cheers!

Don't call it a Ring main, (Ring Final Circuit)

 

[RyanF]

Don't call it a Ring main, (Ring Final Circuit)

Well ring final cicuit then....

 

[Ian1981]

Erm I might be reading it wrong but you’ve took a live and neutral feed to 1st switch but then taken a 3 core and earth to 2nd switch and for an intermediate switch for 2 and 3 way control.
If so then why have you made the grey from the 3 core a neutral?
If it’s 2 way then black as common marked with brown over sleeving and the grey wants oversleeving brown also as it’s a strapper.
The only neutral you should have in the switch is the mains fed one from the DB then out to your light.

If I’ve miss read your txt then ignore me.

 

[Pete999]

Erm I might be reading it wrong but you’ve took a live and neutrals feed to 1st switch but then taken a 3 core and earth to 2nd switch and an intermediate switch for 2 and 3 way control.
If so then why have you made the grey from the 3 core a neutral?
If it’s 2 way then black as common marked with brown over sleeving and the grey wants oversleeving brown also as it’s a strapper.
The only neutral you should have in the switch is the mains fed one from the DB then out to your light.

If I’ve miss read your txt then ignore me.

I may be wrong, but I think the OP has taken a L and N to the first switch on a 2 way switching circuit and has carried the N conductor through to the second switch and at the 2nd he will have a 3core, 2 strappers and a N at that switch where he will then run a 2 core and earth from the light, this cable will be a N and SL, again if I have read the post wrong then ignore this post.

 

[Jamie']

You are correct, in the AM2 you feed your first switch from the db then add your intermidate switching In and at the last switch take your sl and n up to the light

 

[Ian1981]

Do you not take a mains from the DB to the first light switch then your s/live and neutral to the light wired from the first switch (which is a 2 way)containing your permanent live and neutral?
Any 2 way and intermediate switches then it’s just 3 core from your first switch to your intermediate then a 3 core from your intermediate switch to last 2 way switch.
Why carry a neutral all the way through?

 

[Strima]

On the AM2 they require a neutral at each switching point on the lighting circuit.

So T&E from MCB to 1st switch. 3C&E to intermediate and 3rd switch, then T&E to luminaire.

Technically you can use an colour core for strappers, neutral etc as long as their identified/sleeved.

 

[Pete999]

Do you not take a mains from the DB to the first light switch then your s/live and neutral to the light wired from the first switch (which is a 2 way)containing your permanent live and neutral?
Any 2 way and intermediate switches then it’s just 3 core from your first switch to your intermediate then a 3 core from your intermediate switch to last 2 way switch.
Why carry a neutral all the way through?

Because he has to take SL and N from the last switch in the line

 

[Ian1981]

On the AM2 they require a neutral at each switching point on the lighting circuit.

So T&E from MCB to 1st switch. 3C&E to intermediate and 3rd switch, then T&E to luminaire.

Technically you can use an colour core for strappers, neutral etc as long as their identified/sleeved.

So there’s a neutral at the intermediate switch? Which is pointless.
Am I reading that right?
Different from when I did it.
It was about 17 years ago mind

 

[RyanF]

Erm I might be reading it wrong but you’ve took a live and neutral feed to 1st switch but then taken a 3 core and earth to 2nd switch and for an intermediate switch for 2 and 3 way control.
If so then why have you made the grey from the 3 core a neutral?
If it’s 2 way then black as common marked with brown over sleeving and the grey wants oversleeving brown also as it’s a strapper.
The only neutral you should have in the switch is the mains fed one from the DB then out to your light.

If I’ve miss read your txt then ignore me.

Oh well I wired it as this drawing is drawn. You have to loop a neutral in the back of the switches. So I took a L and N to the first switch to feed the common and Neutral in the back of the switch.

Then a 3 core taking two S/L to the intermediate from the first switch. Looped Neutral in the back again. Then a length of 3 core to the other 2 way switch which has a 2 S/L’s and a neutral. Again looped in the back. Picked uo the neutral in the back and up to the light on a seperate 1.5 which then brown to the common up to the light ?

Is this wrong? Or right?

I just followed this drawing.

 

[RyanF]

Heres the drawing

 

[RyanF]

On the AM2 they require a neutral at each switching point on the lighting circuit.

So T&E from MCB to 1st switch. 3C&E to intermediate and 3rd switch, then T&E to luminaire.

Technically you can use an colour core for strappers, neutral etc as long as their identified/sleeved.

So what ive done is correct then in my exam? Im panicing like hell now!?!?

 

[Ian1981]

Oh well I wired it as this drawing is drawn. You have to loop a neutral in the back of the switches. So I took a L and N to the first switch to feed the common and Neutral in the back of the switch.

Then a 3 core taking two S/L to the intermediate from the first switch. Looped Neutral in the back again. Then a length of 3 core to the other 2 way switch which has a 2 S/L’s and a neutral. Again looped in the back. Picked uo the neutral in the back and up to the light on a seperate 1.5 which then brown to the common up to the light ?

Is this wrong? Or right?

I just followed this drawing.

Do it as per drawing Ryan it’s what you have to do and it shows you can read drawings also.

 

[Pete999]

So there’s a neutral at the intermediate switch? Which is pointless.
Am I reading that right?
Different from when I did it.
It was about 17 years ago mind

There will be a N at all 3 switches in a wago I should imagine or some other connector.

 

[RyanF]

There will be a N at all 3 switches in a wago I should imagine or some other connector.

Yeah thats what I done...

 

[RyanF]

So what I done is correct and not wrong?

 

[Strima]

So there’s a neutral at the intermediate switch? Which is pointless.
Am I reading that right?
Different from when I did it.
It was about 17 years ago mind

It’s to allow for smart switching. But TBH I would think it’s to check you actually follow the wiring diagram rather than just wade straight in.

Personally I think they should do one circuit this way and one using the three plate method.

 

[RyanF]

It’s to allow for smart switching. But TBH I would think it’s to check you actually follow the wiring diagram rather than just wade straight in.

Personally I think they should do one circuit this way and one using the three plate method.

We got told to loop the neutral in the back because some of the new switches have looped Neutral Terminals in the back of them now. Its also at a later date some new smart heating technology stuff needs a neutral at the switch. Hense why its been advised to do it this way.

 

[Strima]

So what I done is correct and not wrong?

That’ll work. Have fun wiring up the heating...

 

[RyanF]

That’ll work. Have fun wiring up the heating...

Im doing that tommorow along with the data point and tidying up cables/ checking conductors are correctly wired etc.

Ive got just under 3 hours left for the Install then onto inspection and testing.

Would I loose marks if using the wrong crimps on the cpc on the banjo to MET on the armoured? Etc.

 

[Strima]

If the wrongs crimps are provided then ask for the correct ones. If they say use what there is then just crack on.

Problem is the test centres are on a tight budget so they have to use what they can lay their hands on.

 

[RyanF]

If the wrongs crimps are provided then ask for the correct ones. If they say use what there is then just crack on.

Problem is the test centres are on a tight budget so they have to use what they can lay their hands on.

What ones would you use for a 1.5mm single cpc cable?
A red crimp?

 

[Strima]

What ones would you use for a 1.5mm single cpc cable?
A red crimp?

Red will work.

 

[Pete999]

Well ring final cicuit then....

Not trying to be a smart arse Ryan, but get the simple things right and the rest should follow a Ring Main is a distribution ring as in LV or HV distribution, I know ot was always referred to as a Ring Main but not anymore, Ring Final Circuit, as opposed to a Radial Final circuit. and good luck for tomorrow.