Pyro + me

[i=p/u]

Have a board to change tomorrow with old pyro entering top and bottom of board, I've heard some guys saying they can split , what do they mean and any tips just. Thanks.

 

[jackhammerJIM]

be careful with bending the pyro . too much and it will snap ,

be extra careful and all will be fine .

 

[iamelectric]

as said take it easy and it will be fine , hate pyro , if it does snap its a major pain in the ****

 

[7029 dave]

How is it glanded, terms and lock nut or terms+ coupler?

 

[2na]

If it snaps put a new pot on it, what's the problem?

 

[jackhammerJIM]

what's the problem?

i would say the OP has no pyro tools

 

[iamelectric]

If it snaps put a new pot on it, what's the problem?

usually when it snaps it leaves the cable short

 

[iamelectric]

i would say the OP has no pyro tools

if you dont have pyro tools i wouldnt touch it

 

[jackhammerJIM]

if you dont have pyro tools i wouldnt touch it

have stripped and made off a few without the stripper and potting tool to hand .


If you dont have previous experience i wouldnt touch it

 

[2na]

usually when it snaps it leaves the cable short

Galvanised box, then come out of it with fp200. Very simple.

 

[iamelectric]

yeah very simple and he will have that stuff to hand

 

[Plonker 3]

yeah very simple and he will have that stuff to hand

Its called the 6 P's

 

[jackhammerJIM]

the last 3 are **** poor performance

 

[itselectric]

If you are able to undo clips up to about 600 mm back then remove each pyro by undoing gland nut and grab the pyro about half ay between cu ad clip and gently pull, thus putting a gentle bend on each pyro and it will come out of cu.
The secret is not to put too tight a bend on the cables.
If the cables have any tight bends on them now, don't try to straighten them or you will risk damage. Once they are fitted to new cu you can dress them and reclip.

 

[longboat]

Its called the 6 P's


Or, the 7 P's.
Or, if at first you don't succeed...go and buy the things you need.

 

[Engineer54]

If all the MICC's are coming into the top (or all bottom entry) of the existing CU it couldn't be easier. Release all the gland locknut/rings inside the CU, carefully straighten the cores out straightish, release the CU wall fixings and slide the CU enclosure away from the cables.

Once you have marked and cut the 20mm holes for the MICC glands on the new/replacement CU, installation will be in reverse to above!! Shouldn't be any need to bend or muck about with those MICC cables, to cause damage....

 

[not clever]

Is the cu flush or surface?
If it's flush just get a larger cu to cover it and extend circuits into new board.

 

[Guest55]

for gods sake dont even look at pyro , even a brief sidewards glance in its general direction could cause it to blow itself apart !
seriously !

he-he.

 

[jaypp]

for gods sake dont even look at pyro , even a brief sidewards glance in its general direction could cause it to blow itself apart !
seriously !

he-he.

that's why churches constantly have collections for repairs!

 

[High Tower]

As some of the lads have said, THE most important thing is , slacken the backnut ( the bucket part) of the gland, all the way off so the gland spins freely on the pyro and pot, it won't split if you do this, also don't be rough and give yourself plenty of slack length which will stop you over bending it. I've just done hundreds in the national indoor arena in Birmingham with no casualtys, it's twice as strong as you think it is, just has to be handled correctly