Lighting for Cinema Room - Philips Hue

[Charlie_]

Don’t worry about the WiFi, Philips Hue is Zigbee.
Also have a look at the aurora smart lighting, they have now jumped in bed with Samsung so all the lighting products can be easily be controlled via Samsung audio visual products

 

[Chownsie79]

OP - you are unnecessarily complicating matters.

I would keep the 3 way switch and put each "type" of light on each switch. Then you have the ability to override or switch off the lights with ease (and so could anyone else)

Not having switches or relying on wifi switches is something I would not recommend.

I don't doubt that, however I was a bit perturbed by how it was left, the wiring just clipped to the walls tightly packed together, no chase or capping, wagos stuffed in the ceiling, the use of the faulty old switch that sticks, the cable left outside the safe zone etc. I pulled it all out through annoyance really but also as I was thinking rako or lutron at first and thought I could neatly hide the wiring in the pelmet inside a wago box or similar. I guess in hindsight having it behind the hue dimmer switch in wagos will allow for the switch to be reinstated later on.

 

[Octopus]

I don't doubt that, however I was a bit perturbed by how it was left, the wiring just clipped to the walls tightly packed together, no chase or capping, wagos stuffed in the ceiling, the use of the faulty old switch that sticks, the cable left outside the safe zone etc.

Nothing surprises me these days ... that’s all very usual from people who don’t charge enough to do the job properly

Not capping when plastering is going to occur is plain stupid

 

[Chownsie79]

well as you have taken the ceiling down it makes sense to me to:
find positions of 8 downlights and run 1.5mm from a switch position and the from one downlight to the next. Do the same for the strip lights and the wall lights. that would seem simplest to me. take the permanent live from the ceiling down to the switch position. make everything good in a wago connector box.

I'm thinking I could;

Take perm live down to where the wire outside the safe zone is, at the back of the room. Add a 2 gang switch here for downlights and wall lights which is set to on.

For the led strips I don't want to mess about cutting off the plugs, so adding a couple of double sockets inside the pelmet seems logical as I can then also plug in a projector to this or wire it into an FCU.

Or I put the chased socket under the wiring left outside the safe zone, so it cures that issue, then put the switch back where it was but for the downs and walls as a 2 gang. One question, if I run in mini trucking and then my cat6 and speaker cables in a different mini trunking, will this prevent interference?

 

[Chownsie79]

Don’t worry about the WiFi, Philips Hue is Zigbee.
Also have a look at the aurora smart lighting, they have now jumped in bed with Samsung so all the lighting products can be easily be controlled via Samsung audio visual products

Thanks Charlie, I just bought the hue Bridge and dimmer this evening, I like the look of smartthings though. Lutron looked good but no rgbs with that I'm told.

 

[Chownsie79]

Nothing surprises me these days ... that’s all very usual from people who don’t charge enough to do the job properly

Not capping when plastering is going to occur is plain stupid

Exactly, I had the plasterer in to do some other work and he was about to use left over bonding to cover it before I stopped him, I don't know if it does anything to cables but I do know they should be covered properly.

 

[Octopus]

Exactly, I had the plasterer in to do some other work and he was about to use left over bonding to cover it before I stopped him, I don't know if it does anything to cables but I do know they should be covered properly.

Sadly it’s done a lot today ......

 

[LuiDeLuna]

Regarding LED lighting problem, i always use hykolity. it's is the best plateform for any suggestion or solution related to LED lighting.