The pyro is a mineral insulated cable with a copper armour
Copper sheath as opposed to armour. It's not an armoured cable.
 
Pound to a penny the lights were disconnected because of tripping an RCD and excuse given of not enough supply!
Sorry that it’s happened to you OP, hope you’ll get a better service from a reputable electrician.
The consumer unit is not nice to look at.
 
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Copper sheath as opposed to armour. It's not an armoured cable.

A copper sheath that is also an excellent armour..
Potato, potarto,
Tomato, tomarto
I was just trying to put things in layman terms for the op..
I will continue to refer to it as an armour, thank you
 
Not an 18th board either...
 
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Builder is gunning for more work I shouldn't wonder.
 
Friggin hell you lot, bet the OP never slept all night. You can give suitable advice, without scaring the bejesus out of people.
 
Builder is gunning for more work I shouldn't wonder.
 
Hi - on the lighter side (oops, sorry ... don’t mention the war! ) @Charlie_ cat reference in post #23 relates to a recent cat-astrophe reported on the Forum. But I’m sure your cats are well behaved. Here’s a picture of Forum Cat after a recent upgrade to her PSE.

9AFB822A-99CE-4F27-9FD7-9AB215CD9147.jpeg
 
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What is an 18th board? Genuine question.
 
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What is an 18th board? Genuine question.

Its a configuration of a consumer unit including unnecessary components and parts (and costs for end users) ................. that weren't included in the previous builds

Marketing by vested interests who are making money out of influencing JPEL/64
 
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Bob is not the best electrician in the land is he?
 
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An 18th Ed board comes fully loaded with RCBOs , SPDs and AFDDs

The installation with be a thing of sheer beauty with an attention to detail on the finest master craftsman can appreciate.
The angels weep when they see such a heavenly installation.

See a picture of such work in the first op post
 
Consumer unit aside, the builder was correct those meter tails do need changing. If you contact your electricity supplier, they usually do it for free when installing smart meter or isolator switch.

How can you tell if the tails are undersized? The tail size is dictated by the dno ocpd. We do not know the size of this ocpd, the csa of the existing tails or the current handling capacity of the meter.

The only details we really know about this installation is that the central and water heating are not electric in which case the demand is likely to be way under 80A.
 
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Friggin hell you lot, bet the OP never slept all night. You can give suitable advice, without scaring the bejesus out of people.

I thought exactly the same then paid a little more attention to the pictures.

It is rather rough and wanting a little in the compliance department.

What I can't get is, if there is a Spark and he has been on site doing the first and second fix then all the tails and routing issues could have been addressed 'off line' whilst he was doing other work. Either rank bad planning, not having a clue or both.

What's with the CU hanging off the back board?

The cables that come down from the ceiling appear to come from the middle of the ceiling. Obviously not long enough.

The entry in to the bottom.......

....Why am I bothering it an abortion and the OP should be having nightmares, if this 'on show' element is so shoddy then what demons hide out of sight?
 
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Consumer unit aside, the builder was correct those meter tails do need changing. If you contact your electricity supplier, they usually do it for free when installing smart meter or isolator switch.

Thanks, that's really helpful. I'll contact them.
 
can't be arsed giving opinion on whoever fitted the CU. this may say it for me.

 
So, an update. Thanks again for all the comments (even the funny ones!). Today the head builder came and we reviewed everything. The electrician stated that the job is not finished yet and also that he was told not to touch any of the existing wiring. A lot of what you see going in is existing wiring, which is 20 years old and is no doubt shocking. I am planning to rewire when I have paid off some of the loft. I pointed out some of the comments I heard here.

I also contacted UK power network who told me they are only responsible for up to the fuse. We found the incoming power feed (about 25mm thick) and the fuse in the basement, so the 10mm feed from the basement to my meter on the ground floor they tell me is my responsibility so an electrician can fix. I have send them a picture of the awful looking fuses and connectors in the basement around the main feed and asked them to comment whether anything needs replacing.

As I understand it at the moment I need UK power networks to check their bit, then get an electrician to run a new cable and sort out all of the earthing problems etc. before the meter, and possibly get the meter replaced by my power company. Finally, keep an eye on the work on the CU, get my certs and possibly get another electrician to check the work.

Hopefully I've understood everything right but that's what I've gleaned from the comments so far. Thanks all.
 
It is rather rough and wanting a little in the compliance department.

That’s all that needs to be said. It’s not like it’s going to be rectified by end of today.

No point in worrying people anymore than that.
 
put a photo on of the finished product BEFORE final payment
 
The service cable, (micc) needs reworking, fuse drawn by us at origin. Steel box with pyro terminated into it, no bango reqd, brass gland, 16mmsq earth from box into earth bar. Sit 100 amp existing series 7 on top of new box. 25mmsq brown and blue from cut out and meter from meter guys. Full test on con's wiring, and remedial.
 
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The service cable, (micc) needs reworking, fuse drawn by us at origin. Steel box with pyro terminated into it, no bango reqd, brass gland, 16mmsq earth from box into earth bar. Sit 100 amp existing series 7 on top of new box. 25mmsq brown and blue from cut out and meter from meter guys. Full test on con's wiring, and remedial.

Those are very bold statements and assumptions based on looking at a photo ......
 
Interesting comment without being able to see under the cover!

From what I've seen they have 100A RCDs other than I have no idea.

Not sure how a 17th unpopulated board differs from an 18th unpopulated board.

I've no idea how you can tell from that picture...

Awaiting enlightenment also....

I'm sure I read somewhere that the lid had to be hinged from the top, as in self closing, to comply with the regs pertaining to the containment of fire. Come to think of it, that info may have been getting banded about around amendment 3 time.

I also thought that.
My conclusion; I think we have found the sparky that done the job :)

Can't say it'd be worth my while to travel to the other end of the country to throw that on the wall.
 

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