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Discuss Shop front fluorescent fittings in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

vini

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The fittings operate from a time clock, some work some don't. Am I correct in thinking that these fittings don't have a starter nor a ballast? Does the time clock provide ballast in the circuit?

Does anyone have any experience with these sorts of fittings?
There is 240v going into the fittings and other than the end caps not making a good connection, I can't see why those that aren't working, aren't working. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
 
The fittings operate from a time clock, some work some don't. Am I correct in thinking that these fittings don't have a starter nor a ballast? Does the time clock provide ballast in the circuit?

Does anyone have any experience with these sorts of fittings?
There is 240v going into the fittings and other than the end caps not making a good connection, I can't see why those that aren't working, aren't working. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.

I assume the Fluorescent Tubes are not in a fitting and are secured someway? If that is the case the choke/ballast will be mounted away somewhere (with easy access of course!!!) The time clock only acts as a switching device for energising the circuit(s).

As for some working/not working.... No doubts its a choke/ballast issue!

Happy Hunting!
 
A practicing sparkie since 1985 TBH you surprise me that your unaware of basic fluorescent tube striking options.

That aside the 3 main starting methods are:-
-your common plug in starter this is usually located for easy change on the side of the fitting although some fittings have them internal.
-a transtar which looks like a longer version of a laminated ballast but incorporates striking kit so no separate starter.
-electronic ballast, like a transtar but with electronics and again no separate starter.

Your time clock will merely be switching the supply to the fitting nothing more and maybe via a separate contactor if the load overrates the relay terminals of the time clock.

TBH their are umpteen reasons fittings fail and if a new tube and starter don't correct it check for a internal fuse and also you have a supply if so then really don't faf about just replace the fitting.
 
PS just re-read your post .... you seem to think your fittings have no control gear... this wont be the case i assume you just have the end-caps in view with a remote control gear kit maybe above a false ceiling in a shop counter etc etc ... do some searching ...
 
If op means shop sign then it is usually control gear in the actual box with singles going from them to the end caps. Ones I have done in the past have had normal ballast and starter or transtar type units but both had single internal wiring and end caps.
 

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