Getting across ceiling joists from below - tricks of the trade.

[Rpa07]

Yes you’ll be needing to get the cable on the other side of that joist so you’ll either have a downlight size hole to check what’s on other side of joist or another 100mm to carry on the run.
It’s a thinker of a job at the best of times but doesn’t really matter if you cut a few wrong distanced holes at this stage!

 

[Wilko]

Good tips there. If you are drilling from one side of the joist through a 100mm hole how can you check to see if there’s anything on the other side without check via an access hole? Is that what you mean by 100mm holes between all joists that you’re routing between?

Proper 18 hole golf course sometimes ... hopefully half get filled by lights .

 

[DefyG]

Drill the holes for the downlights and use those holes as much as possible for feeding cables through.
If I cant see any existing cable runs through the new holes, I make an educated guess where existing cable runs might be through the joists (ie approx. 0.25 span of the joists and then drill further access holes (perhaps larger than the lights if necessary) and use existing cable runs rather than drill new holes - not always possible though.

Supporting cables is another issue though!!

 

[Zerax]

Lost count of number of customers in new builds who in the rush to move in decide to lay expensive carpet and decorate. Then call a electrician to fit downlights if only they waited a week or so....

I was working in a similar one the other week... the owner has spent the best part of £25k for new kitchen, laminate flooring, walls all skimmed and redecorated everywhere... now she's decided she wants extra power sockets and tv/ethernet cables installed !

 

[Leesparkykent]

by the time you’ve piddled around making holes, repairing holes, filling, sanding, painting etc it would be quicker and a superior finish to cut a length of the existing board out, opposite to the way the joists are running, run cables in and overboard the whole ceiling and tape and joint it.

 

[stevels4]

Artex is horrible to repair

I just done a small job a kitchen where the electrical job took about 25 mins after cutting a small hatch in the ceiling

The making good and applying a fresh splodge of artex to the new bit of boardi put in took about 3.5 hours in an attempt to make it look like the ceiling hadn’t been cut

Artex.......ASBESTOS Reinforced Texturing...happy cutting!

 

[Midwest]

by the time you’ve piddled around making holes, repairing holes, filling, sanding, painting etc it would be quicker and a superior finish to cut a length of the existing board out, opposite to the way the joists are running, run cables in and overboard the whole ceiling and tape and joint it.

I've already said that, cuff.

 

[johnduffell]

I'm intrigued to know what tricks / techniques folks use to install multiple downlights into an existing ceiling in replacement of a central pendant.

I find surface trunking is the quuickest, complies with all the regs as well if you use suitable metal bands around the cables, job done.

 

[Midwest]

Wot between each down light

 

[mark641]

Artex is horrible to repair [cut]

I dont agree. Artex is just horrible.

 

[telectrix]

devil's advocate...... if a prescribed zone in a wall is directly inline with accessories, cables < 50mm deep, why is a route between 2 downlights in a ceiling not permitted as a zone, when the cables are just above board (<50mm)?????

 

[Welchyboy1]

yes thats a good point

 

[Welchyboy1]

by the time you’ve piddled around making holes, repairing holes, filling, sanding, painting etc it would be quicker and a superior finish to cut a length of the existing board out, opposite to the way the joists are running, run cables in and overboard the whole ceiling and tape and joint it.

Obviously the idea is you never get involved in the sanding and painting of the job, thats explained to the customer day dot. thats their look out to redecorate

You talking probably 3-4 holes for 6 downlighters max, the holes get replaced and the cuts get filled, job done walk away, everyones happy, you get paid

If the customer chooses to re-skim the ceiling then thats up to them surely and doesnt delay you getting paid

convince me, that will not ALWAYS be quicker, tidier and cheaper for everyone involved than re-boarding/(re-coving?), skimming and repainting a whole ceiling, considering its likely to be working above kitchens/bathroom suites that are not being replaced

then coming back to 2nd fix

your just making a load of hard work for yourself, and potentially pricing yourself out of the job!

 

[Leesparkykent]

the idea is you never get involved in the sanding and painting of the job, thats explained to the customer day dot. thats their look out to redecorate

the holes get replaced and the cuts get filled, job done walk away, everyones happy, you get paid

considering its likely to be working in kitchens/bathrooms that are mostly not being replaced whilst using this method and the lighting is generally the only works being carried out

convince me, that will not ALWAYS be quicker, tidier and cheaper for everyone involved than re-boarding/(re-coving?), skimming and repainting a ceiling

your just making a load of hard work for yourself!

I never said skim the ceiling I said tape and joint. The average bathroom is just shy of 4 square meters....2.88 square meters to a plaster board.

Two sheets of board £14
Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total. £40

Filling the holes

Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total £ 26

What other mess are you going to make either way you still have to sand and paint and you’ve already banged a hole saw through multiple times creating dust?

Both going to take roughly the same time to do......So for £14 extra you have a superior finish. I know what I would choose in my own house.

Why would you need to come back?

 

[Wilko]

Sorry but I don’t see it being cheaper and easier to give someone a new ceiling than repair

I never said skim the ceiling I said tape and joint. The average bathroom is just shy of 4 square meters....2.88 square meters to a plaster board.

Two sheets of board £14
Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total. £40

Filling the holes

Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total £ 26

What other mess are you going to make either way you still have to sand and paint and you’ve already banged a hole saw through multiple times creating dust?

Both going to take roughly the same time to do......So for £14 extra you have a superior finish. I know what I would choose in my own house.

Why would you need to come back?

Not to argue, but I can’t put up a board by myself and as we all know, I’ve got no mates ...

 

[Leesparkykent]

Sorry but I don’t see it being cheaper and easier to give someone a new ceiling than repair

Not to argue, but I can’t put up a board by myself and as we all know, I’ve got no mates ...

Lol I can.....https://www.amazon.co.uk/BoardMate-PlasterBoard-Fixing-Supports-fixing/dp/B00PH72GI0

 

[a-z electrics]

I never redecorate.. thats up to client.

 

[Midwest]

To repeat myself again, chose either method, whichever is appropriate. If I was doing a kitchen refurb for example, and other wiring was being altered, I'd remove a small section of board, mates or no mates. If was half dozen down lights, I'd cut circles.

Whatever, the client is responsible for making good to finish level, along with decorating, either taping & employing a plasterer or decorators etc.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Lol I can.....https://www.amazon.co.uk/BoardMate-PlasterBoard-Fixing-Supports-fixing/dp/B00PH72GI0

Me too. Tall stepladders, 2 of these:

Extension Support Prop 115-290cm - https://www.toolstation.com/extension-support-prop/p66745

...and a hat with a kneepad in it. That said, I'd sooner repair.

 

[johnduffell]

Wot between each down light

yeah just paint them black and tell the customer they're mock tudor ceilings!