D
His one endearing quality is that he has no airs and graces and is not afraid to say that he doesn't know what's up.
Obviously unscripted, completely as it happens.
So many other channels present the activities as a polished perfected series of events where everything seems to go flawlessly.
While my reaction usually ranges from "hmmm, that's a bit iffy" to "WHAT??!?!?!" I still usually find it an entertaining watch.
Obviously unscripted, completely as it happens.
So many other channels present the activities as a polished perfected series of events where everything seems to go flawlessly.
While my reaction usually ranges from "hmmm, that's a bit iffy" to "WHAT??!?!?!" I still usually find it an entertaining watch.
Before I commit to watching this, is it significantly better than the last one?
When it said “trainee gets hands on…” I though he was going to get a belt..
Disappointed
Disappointed
Bridges the cavity gap. Also things like meter tails running in the cavity can catch people out. No safe zones to identify where they are and no RCD protection. Makes a lovely bang when someone drills through to outside for something!
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In the instance in the video I couldn't really see a problem with running the cables along the cavity. It's deeper than 50mm so safe zone not required. Of course, if u drill through the wall in the future you may get a bang... but that's the case with any cables out of zone and deeper than 50mm.
Haven't watched the video. Was just answering the question generally.
Might pluck up courage to watch it tomorrow
You can run them in the cavity. It's not considered best practice though. And is pretty tricky to do usually
Nothing in the regs to say you can't but lots of reasons why you shouldn't especially if there is insulation.
niceic say that if you must, then mineral cable would be acceptable.
The usual high quality advice - the most inflexible and difficult cable to try and fish through a cavity that I can think of.
ah, those beads that get pumped into cavities sometimes, fair enough.
I only asked because in the video the room has a short wall all the way round, presumably the cavity is open at the top, and i guess with rockwool or celotex in the cavity, so running cables through it would seem a reasonable way to do it in this instance, same as you see in alot of conservatories. Delroy was 'teaching' the new lad and said you weren't allowed to do that but he didn't know why......
The cavity is there to provide a gap and prevent damp from penetrating to the inside skin of the building, wall/brick ties have drips on them to allow the water condensate to reach the cavity tray at the bottom of the wall and drain through the open perps to the outside, its not there for any electricians to run cables in and compromise the drips on the ties.
Do a google search and you will find that cavity's are no longer filled with insulation, it was always a bad idea and many house's have been ruined by the practice.
Do a google search and you will find that cavity's are no longer filled with insulation, it was always a bad idea and many house's have been ruined by the practice.
That's the theory. Real world, even a 9" solid wall doesn't allow significant damp to pass through to the inside, unless it's very exposed to the prevailing wind, or the rainwater goods have failed and are pouring water all down the wall. The odds of significant moisture making its way to the inner leaf of a cavity wall via cables run in the cavity are very low indeed.
I have never heard of cavity trays and weep holes being installed at the base of cavity walls, or of any houses being damaged by cavity insulation. What are your sources for this? Genuinely interested to hear more about this.
I think it's fair to say that there is a fairly strong view that cavity wall insulation is not the blessing it was thought to be at first. In particular, poorly installed insulation can have a detrimental effect on some structures, notably timber-frame building, especially if the method used is to pump polystyrene at pressure without proper supervision. I have personally witnessed damage to a few houses caused by such a method.
The polystyrene balls, being preformed and thus not "foaming" into the cavity, do not seem to cause such problems.
However, a cavity wall is there for a purpose, as Mike Johnson says above, with ties to carry moisture away from the inner leaf (as well as tying the 2 leaves together).
It may be rare for water to penetrate from the outer wall to the inner, but I have personal experience of this. Failure of the external pointing and mastic led to penetration of exactly this type in my building which has polystyrene balls installed. The result was considerable moisture affecting the internal plasterwork in some of the flats, black mould and flaking plaster, and the clean-up measures after rectification of the cause were considerable and expensive.
The surveyor appointed to oversee the remedial work was quite clear that the damage would have been far less had the cavity been left clear of insulation, as the insulation allowed the water to track across the cavity, and held it in.
The polystyrene balls, being preformed and thus not "foaming" into the cavity, do not seem to cause such problems.
However, a cavity wall is there for a purpose, as Mike Johnson says above, with ties to carry moisture away from the inner leaf (as well as tying the 2 leaves together).
It may be rare for water to penetrate from the outer wall to the inner, but I have personal experience of this. Failure of the external pointing and mastic led to penetration of exactly this type in my building which has polystyrene balls installed. The result was considerable moisture affecting the internal plasterwork in some of the flats, black mould and flaking plaster, and the clean-up measures after rectification of the cause were considerable and expensive.
The surveyor appointed to oversee the remedial work was quite clear that the damage would have been far less had the cavity been left clear of insulation, as the insulation allowed the water to track across the cavity, and held it in.
Cavity trays and weep holes are the standard method of draining a cavity, and damage to houses by full fill cavity insulation has been well publicised by the RICS and the Institute of Civil Engineering, you will note below the insulation is only part fill any penetration of this by cables will cause a thermal bridge.
I do a lot of work on barn type conversions with no cavity at all, lots of those walls are around 3ft thick some are coated with a tar like stuff because of water ingression.
Mike this diagram is for radon protection rather than damp, see here: Radon Protection in Above-Ground Environments - https://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/radon-above-ground
The purpose of the diagram was to show the cavity tray which someone said they had never seen, this is all standard building works you guys need to get out more. 
We did to, but they were all fully occupied rewires the council tenants were still living in them back in the good old days, so you had to keep disruption and mess to a minimum cant think of a better way to use the cavity pull through old to new lovely job.
I trained and worked as a bricklayer for a few years in the early 2000s, so I know a little bit about this.The purpose of the diagram was to show the cavity tray which someone said they had never seen, this is all standard building works you guys need to get out more.
Cavity trays and weep holes were installed above openings, and occasionally where insulation didn't run right the way up the cavity wall (eg. it stopped at loft-level). I never once saw anyone install one at ground level, right around the perimeter of the building, as per your diagram, so it certainly wasn't standard practice back then.
Both leaves of the wall had a DPC, typically 150mm above ground, and a weak mix filled the cavity up to ground level, to prevent the earth pushing the walls in. No cavity tray, what would be the point? You think the cavity just fills up with water until it comes out the top?
Perhaps things have changed since then, and they're now mandatory at ground level, but I'd like you to show me a more relevant image or document before I accept your word for it.
Back then, 'cavity batts' as they were known, were slabs of rockwool type insulation that were placed in the cavity and typically bridged the whole cavity. Supposedly they were manufactured so that the fibres were oriented so that any moisture would travel straight down, rather than wicking across.
Will this. do, note the perps not filled to act as weep holes to stop the cavity filling up with water and coming out the top.
No Mike, this doesn't tell us anything.
Approved document C is here:
In fact, there is a relevant paragraph in there, 5.5c:
If the wall is an external cavity wall, (see Diagram 9a) the cavity should be taken down at least 225mm below the level of the lowest damp-proof course, or a damp-proof tray should be provided so as to prevent precipitation passing into the inner leaf (see Diagram 9b), with weep holes every 900mm to assist in the transfer of moisture through the external leaf.
Bear in mind that the DPC is at least 150mm above GL, taking the cavity down 225mm is easily done, much easier than running a cavity tray round the whole building. So hardly standard practice.
On the matter of full fill insulation:
CAVITY INSULATION
5.15
A full or partial fill insulating material may be placed in the cavity between the outer leaf and an inner leaf of masonry subject to the following conditions:
....
then later...
When the cavity of an existing house is being filled, special attention should be given to the condition of the external leaf of the wall, e.g. its state of repair and type of pointing. Guidance is given in BS 8208-1:1985111. Some materials that are used to fill existing cavity walls may have a low risk of moisture being carried over to the internal leaf of the wall.
I infer from this last paragraph that the likelihood of moisture tracking across the cavity via insulation is low, is less likely to happen to a wall in good state of repair, and is even less likely to be a problem with walls that were insulated during construction
So. No cavity trays at ground level required, full fill insulation is allowed (and common place IME), and risk of moisture crossing the cavity is low.
The original issue was and is the use of the cavity to run cables.
Cavity trays are used when solid concrete floors are cast supported by the ground or beam and block floors supported on lightweight fill, the construction of suspended timber floors is very rare in this age of quick build, cavity trays where used in all the housing estates I was involved with during my working life in the South of England due to the possibility of marsh gas from the clay sub-soil.
On Insulation the latest perceived wisdom is partial fill of cavities with a minimum of 50mm gap between insulation and the outer skin.
Cavity trays are used when solid concrete floors are cast supported by the ground or beam and block floors supported on lightweight fill, the construction of suspended timber floors is very rare in this age of quick build, cavity trays where used in all the housing estates I was involved with during my working life in the South of England due to the possibility of marsh gas from the clay sub-soil.
On Insulation the latest perceived wisdom is partial fill of cavities with a minimum of 50mm gap between insulation and the outer skin.
Mike, can you please define 'strawmanning', so the forum can understand where you're coming from
There are lots of references to the use of cavity trays at the base of buildings, so it's strange that with all your building knowledge you hadn't heard of it before, It should make you happy that you have learnt something from Mike because as you have said in the past you come on here to learn.
I agree it's entertaining, I would place it in the category of comedy.
Think he means STRAMETT BOARD
He doesn't like to be criticised that much does he?
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