Pat testing plug fuses

[sham]

Hello, I am new to PAT testing by myself as I just used to do it with an ex employer. We always changed the fuses of the plugs if they were overrated, mainly most had 13A fuses. Now I work for my-self I have carried out pat testing on new Items for a landlord, whether new items need pat testing is another matter as I was being paid to do it. I have come across plug fuses that Are 13A and the Appliances have rated Amp 3, 5, and 10 Amps. I would assume that the manufacturers know what they are doing as it is law. My only conclusion is that the 13 Amps protect the lead and therefore the appliance has its own built in fuse. So, I left the 13A in the plug in the brand-new items and changes the fuses in the older items. Is this correct or do just change the fuses of brand-new items.

 

[Pete999]

Change the fuse to suite the appliance it is connected to. do you own a copy of the CoP for ISITEE?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Follow the makers instructions. I have never changed a fuse when PAT testing myself.

 

[Pete999]

Follow the makers instructions. I have never changed a fuse when PAT testing myself.

I would have to say the Mate how can you pass an appliance with the wrong size fuse in the plug? One of the first visual tests.

 

[sham]

Change the fuse to suite the appliance it is connected to. do you own a copy of the CoP for ISITEE?

No, I have just downloaded it and going to print it off. But manufacturers should be responsible too.

 

[Strima]

Incorrect size fuse for the cable rating/appliance rating is a fail. Fail the kit and quote for corrective action.

 

[Pete999]

Incorrect size fuse for the cable rating/appliance rating is a fail. Fail the kit and quote for corrective action.

Change the fuse or take the appliance out of service, you could of course cut the plug off!!!! Wrong size fuse for the appliance equals a fail.

 

[sham]

But how are the Manufacturers getting away with it.

 

[Pete999]

But how are the Manufacturers getting away with it.

They may not be getting away with anything, all the appliances I have bought lately, not that many, have had the correct fuse in the plug.

 

[Pete999]

They may not be getting away with anything, all the appliances I have bought lately, not that many, have had the correct fuse in the plug.

If you are into PATesting then the customer MUST be made aware of the need to change fuses and be charged accordingly, Crikey how much does a fuse cost, you are the one quantifying the safety of the appliance, part of the service in my book.

 

[westward10]

Always check moulded plugs as some are not rated for 13A, some are stamped for lower ratings.

 

[pirate]

My practice is to replace the fuse if it is the wrong rating. That way, you leave the appliance safe, and thus can give it a Pass. I may make a charge, very small, for the extra work, but very seldom really. Of course, I have dozens of 13A fuses in my toolbag, always running out of 3A ones...
Some foreign crap has 13A fuses which should be 3A...if it's clear from the FVI that the origin is dodgy, it usually also manifests itself by undersized conductors too, and fuses that don't look right. In those cases it's a clear Fail. The worst culprits are those counterfeit extension leads that we all know and hate!

 

[Strima]

Always check moulded plugs as some are not rated for 13A, some are stamped for lower ratings.

Got thousands of IEC kettle leads in work for servers and they're only rated at 10 amp.

 

[Strima]

My practice is to replace the fuse if it is the wrong rating. That way, you leave the appliance safe, and thus can give it a Pass. I may make a charge, very small, for the extra work, but very seldom really. Of course, I have dozens of 13A fuses in my toolbag, always running out of 3A ones...
Some foreign crap has 13A fuses which should be 3A...if it's clear from the FVI that the origin is dodgy, it usually also manifests itself by undersized conductors too, and fuses that don't look right. In those cases it's a clear Fail. The worst culprits are those counterfeit extension leads that we all know and hate!

Since getting one of these I've failed quite a few cheap extension leads that managers thought would save them a few quid.

Plug checker - http://electricalsafetyfirst.instantcart.com/p/Plug-Checker_7.html

 

[LeeH]

IIRC the COP only regcognises 3 and 13A for some reason. So when I did the PATs anything over 3A got a 13A fitted.

It may have changed.

 

[pirate]

Aye, Strima, seems lots of "buyers" for companies just get shed=loads of cheap imports, when a reasonable quality extension lead is not that dear. The kettle leads though, that's a good point...I do carry 10A fuses, but not used many.
I tend to let a landlord agree to take, say, a table lamp out of service, as he can easily put it back again if I Fail it, but I am brutal on the crap extension leads...if they have a partially sleeved earth pin or any of the myriad other faults, the cord gets cut off and I take the thing away and bin it. Never had a complaint yet, once the safety aspects are explained.

 

[pirate]

Aye, Strima, seems lots of "buyers" for companies just get shed=loads of cheap imports, when a reasonable quality extension lead is not that dear. The kettle leads though, that's a good point...I do carry 10A fuses, but not used many.
I tend to let a landlord agree to take, say, a table lamp out of service, as he can easily put it back again if I Fail it, but I am brutal on the crap extension leads...if they have a partially sleeved earth pin or any of the myriad other faults, the cord gets cut off and I take the thing away and bin it. Never had a complaint yet, once the safety aspects are explained.

 

[pirate]

LeeH I agree it's just 3A and 13A in contemplation, but there are a few appliances that have 5A in them, usually electric drills of lower power, say 750W, and I suppose the surge as these start up, or meet resistance while drilling makes 5A sensible?

 

[Pete999]

Since getting one of these I've failed quite a few cheap extension leads that managers thought would save them a few quid.

Plug checker - http://electricalsafetyfirst.instantcart.com/p/Plug-Checker_7.html

View attachment 40946

Interested where and how dothey work and where can I get hold of one?

 

[LeeH]

LeeH I agree it's just 3A and 13A in contemplation, but there are a few appliances that have 5A in them, usually electric drills of lower power, say 750W, and I suppose the surge as these start up, or meet resistance while drilling makes 5A sensible?

750w is over 3A so it should have a 13A IMO.

But yes, as you say high inrush appliances may be problematic.

 

[Pete999]

LeeH I agree it's just 3A and 13A in contemplation, but there are a few appliances that have 5A in them, usually electric drills of lower power, say 750W, and I suppose the surge as these start up, or meet resistance while drilling makes 5A sensible?

How come I have 1A,3A, 5A, 7A, 10A and 13A in my parts box

 

[LeeH]

Fuse fetish?

 

[Pete999]

Fuse fetish?

Ff off

 

[Risteard]

IIRC the COP only regcognises 3 and 13A for some reason. So when I did the PATs anything over 3A got a 13A fitted.

It may have changed.

Because BS1362 only recognises them as standard sizes.

 

[Strima]

Interested where and how dothey work and where can I get hold of one?

Easy enough to use even for a simpleton like me...

 

[Pete999]

I don't know wht to say. thanks

 

[LeeH]

Not seen them before, very handy.

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Those 10A moulded plugtops fitted with a 13A fuse are acceptable provided they are less than 2m length and have a CSA of 0.75mm2 (ISITEE 15.12)

 

[davesparks]

How come I have 1A,3A, 5A, 7A, 10A and 13A in my parts box

Because manufacturers make non-standard sized fuses

 

[DC-backfrom the past]

Easy enough to use even for a simpleton like me...

View attachment 40949

cheers i have just ordered one ..handy visual effect to show anyone that the plug is fake