Rewriting a light switch - identical isn't identical?!

[hashamyim]

Hey people! So, this seems weird to me and was wondering if I might get some opinions.
I am just trying to replace the switch for the bathroom light (because it is kind of hideous...).
So, I just looked at what wiring was working on the old switch, used that configuration on the replacement switch and thought everything would be dandy (as it has been on all the other switches). However, when I do that with this one and turn the switch on, the trip-switch flies. The light connected to the switch is only controlled by this one, so it shouldn't be a cross-switch problem, as far as I can see.
I've attached an indication of what is being plugged into where.
Can anyone maybe see where I'm going wrong?!
Any help much appreciated!
Hashamyim

 

[littlespark]

A switch only uses live, or disconnected cables.
A neutral mag have been connected to the switch in error, causing a dead short when turned on.

You say this is a single switch? Not a 2way (or 3 way depending on your country’s terminology)

So should only have 2 terminals used. On your second switch, you have cables in all 3 terminals.

I think it’s the blues. Disconnect them from the switch, but still connect them together. Not on the switch.
Someone might correct me on that.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Yes if that is a normal switch, one would not expect the blue wires to be connected to it, only if it were a smart, wireless or timed switch that needs a neutral.

And yes - heads up - the OP is in Germany! If harmonised wiring colours then same as ours with either black or brown line, but obviously no proof of that yet.

 

[hashamyim]

Hey All,
thanks for the info. I'll try it with just black and brown (as other switches only use those two also). And yes, it is just a single on/off switch, not a 3way. There is only one switch you can use to turn that particular light on. I was just a bit confused because the wiring on the old switch used the blue but didn't trip, whereas using the blue on the new switch did. Just seemed odd that connecting it on one would be fine but with the other not!

 

[littlespark]

There are some switches here in the UK that have a terminal for neutral, but doesn’t have any function with the switch. Just somewhere to park the neutral if you don’t happen to have a connector in your pocket.

Of course, as mentioned, some smart type switches require a neutral to operate.

 

[hashamyim]

Actually, something I have just noticed is that the old switch has a little red light in the middle of it which illumiates when you turn the switch on, whereas the new one doesn't. I imagine the little red light would need a neutral, right? Perhaps that is the difference.

 

[littlespark]

Actually, something I have just noticed is that the old switch has a little red light in the middle of it which illumiates when you turn the switch on, whereas the new one doesn't. I imagine the little red light would need a neutral, right? Perhaps that is the difference.

That could be it exactly.

There isn’t any diagram or terminal markings on the old switch, but there is on the new one.

 

[hashamyim]

Brilliant. Will give it a go and let you guys know. Thanks for the help!

 

[brianmoooore]

Since you've been using your new switch to short circuit the electricity supply, it won't be quite so new any more. Might be a good idea to buy another one.

 

[littlespark]

Good point above.

You basically ran thousands of amps through a 10A (maybe) device... albeit for a fraction of a second.

 

[hashamyim]

Yeah, I've got a few, luckily Thanks for the tip.