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Can Plug Sockets for Dishwasher and Washing Machine be Placed in Under-sink Cupboard?

Discuss Can Plug Sockets for Dishwasher and Washing Machine be Placed in Under-sink Cupboard? in the Electrical Appliances Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

If the kitchen is specifically for disabled access there are detailed guidelines on access and positioning.
 
In a new build or major refurbishment, perhaps yes to comply with Part M Building Regs 'to assist people who have reduce reach'. But it only specifies min & max height of switches etc. Designers of new builds often use the central set of DP switches. What do the Building regs in Scotland state?

As regards socket outlets in cupboards, how else do you supply an appliances?
Scottish Regs stipulate isolation switch above counter top for under counter appaliances. I always put Socket outlets behind the appliance fixed to the structure of the building. Regs are to be followed whether a new build or old.
 
Scottish Regs stipulate isolation switch above counter top for under counter appaliances. I always put Socket outlets behind the appliance fixed to the structure of the building. Regs are to be followed whether a new build or old.

Probably based on the assumption that the actual socket will be inaccessible which it certainly will be behind a snug fitting and heavy washing machine for example ! And if the fuse in the plug top should fail then anyone elderly or infirm will never get to it without assistance ! Yes regs should be followed but a modicum of common sense doesn't do any harm either. :)
 
Got to agree with DaveOCD - what's the point in a plug/socket behind a washing machine. Once the fuse blows no-one can get to it. Daz
 
Ok then; I expect the later easier if your in a wheelchair or elderly & infirmed:)
Yes that makes sense. If the elderly or infirm need to pull the appliance out to do a quick repair its easier if the socket is counter top. Can't imagine they'd get somebody able to do that for them.
I agree for items like kettles toasters etc then counter top of course. But an isolator for an appliance normally only gets used when there's a problem. Should an appliance burst into flames having the isolator above and behind it isn't really much help.

I also agree there is little point in sockets behind appliances.
 
Yes that makes sense. If the elderly or infirm need to pull the appliance out to do a quick repair its easier if the socket is counter top. Can't imagine they'd get somebody able to do that for them.

Should an appliance burst into flames having the isolator above and behind it isn't really much help.

I also agree there is little point in sockets behind appliances.

Not suggesting the appliance socket should be above the worktop. I was suggesting a DP switch above a worktop would be more accessible for persons with restricted reach, for turning off the appliance, either in the circumstances you describe above or because they feel inclined to.
 
Scottish Regs stipulate isolation switch above counter top for under counter appaliances. I always put Socket outlets behind the appliance fixed to the structure of the building. Regs are to be followed whether a new build or old.
Only in Scotland does this 'reg' appear to apply.
 
I have seen appliance instructions which state not to install in front of a socket outlet. I assume that it's because the back of the appliance gets warm, which might affect the plug. (Think it was a dishwasher.)
 
Agree with Midwest - as soon as you start with flex outlet plates then it's a sparky job to connect/disconnect. Daz
 
Oh come on now. Any appliance repairer will be capable of isolating an appliance and using a flex outlet, a cooker connection plate, or a FCU for disconnection of an appliance. If they are having to call an electrician for that they are in the wrong job.
 
Don't know about you but I don't want some heavy handed appliance swapper removing my FCU and disturbing the connections. Of course he'll test the ring end to end values afterwards. Won't he? Daz
 
Oh come on now. Any appliance repairer will be capable of isolating an appliance and using a flex outlet, a cooker connection plate, or a FCU for disconnection of an appliance. If they are having to call an electrician for that they are in the wrong job.
You giving too much credence to these 'engineers'.
 
Don't know about you but I don't want some heavy handed appliance swapper removing my FCU and disturbing the connections. Of course he'll test the ring end to end values afterwards. Won't he? Daz
What anyone does with an installation after I have completed the job is really nothing to do with me.

You giving too much credence to these 'engineers'.
I never called them engineers :D
I have met quite few and most are competent to be doing their job, a large part of which is using fixed wire connections.

Connection plates are there to provide a point to connect to for a competent person, and part of an appliance installer/repairer's job is to connect appliances.
 
Well I've had calls from customers where they've paid companies for delivery and 'installation' of kitchen appliances only to be told that they can't connect as they're not insured or other such excuse - always flex outlet plates or SFCUs.
 
Well I've had calls from customers where they've paid companies for delivery and 'installation' of kitchen appliances only to be told that they can't connect as they're not insured or other such excuse - always flex outlet plates or SFCUs.

Like I said, most are competent. But most is not all.
 
Yes this is fine and always my prefered method.! Its accessible. People worry about things like sink dripping on a socket but have no worries turning there 10kw shower on in a metal bath fed via unearthed extraneous conductive parts.
 
Scottish Regs stipulate isolation switch above counter top for under counter appaliances. I always put Socket outlets behind the appliance fixed to the structure of the building. Regs are to be followed whether a new build or old.
So when the appliance fuse blows in the plug of the appliance... Not your problem I guess. THAT's why they should be in a cupboard as high as reasonably practical on the hinge side. Which fuse blows first, the FCU or plugtop. Answers on a postcard
 
So when the appliance fuse blows in the plug of the appliance... Not your problem I guess. THAT's why they should be in a cupboard as high as reasonably practical on the hinge side. Which fuse blows first, the FCU or plugtop. Answers on a postcard

The egg came first, not the chicken.
 
Perhaps the regulations have changed, in Scotland in the intervening 4 years :)
Simple solution here. This is what kitchen fitters do to get round it.
Get a 4g extension lead. Cut the plug off so no fusing issues. Put flex into a J.B. on ring main. Leave loose under plinth. Now you can plug in the cooker, washing machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher and there's no fear of a fuse blowing anywhere.

Isolation? Just flip off the kick board and unplug!

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.
 
Lets face it - if your white goods has just blown a 13A fuse you have to get it out for repair/replacement anyway.

Having the isolation switch accessible allows for the chance it is playing up and you want to shut it off, and also may be part of the manufacturers requirements (some instruction books say to switch off the supply when not in use, etc, not that it happens in practice), and obviously makes testing a bit easier.
 
you could say that a socket on a room below a bathroom is same as one under a kitchen sink. nothing wrong with it and any wet problems that arise are the plumbers fault.
 

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