Okay, thanks all. Presumably I can use a long length of cable in place of the dedicated one on eBay. I have no idea where to connect it on the consumer unit though!

On the cable to use between the junction boxes and the gu10 fittings, I just read elsewhere that if I use flex it has to be the same diameter as the existing twin and earth in the ceiling (at least 1 mm). Is this correct?

Thanks.


Sounds like you are playing with fire mate.
If you don’t know where to connect it to inside the consumer unit, you best shouldn’t be doing the job. Do go poking around in there it’s dangerous. Get a sparky to connect them for you.
 
Always worrying when the Amazon sales blur doesn’t show the instructions - won’t those things need fire hoods with standard lamps? Someone asked if they are rated for bathrooms and the seller replied ‘ask your electrician’! Cleary no idea on IP ratings etc.
 
Thanks all.

There are alternative versions of these lights which have IP ratings for bathrooms (which so don’t need).

I’m sure I can figure out the EFLI test. I just need to know if it’s not safe to use 0.75 mm flex. But it sounds like it’s fine.

Matt
 
won’t those things need fire hoods with standard lamps?
Only if they are in a fire-rated ceiling. That means a ceiling that forms part of a fire-compartment.
There isn't one in a normal house, except for the ceiling of an integrated garage. The ceilings of rooms in flats etc are a different matter.
 
Only if they are in a fire-rated ceiling. That means a ceiling that forms part of a fire-compartment.
There isn't one in a normal house, except for the ceiling of an integrated garage. The ceilings of rooms in flats etc are a different matter.

True enough, but your local building inspector would get pretty ----ed, if you removed the plasterboard and exposed the ceiling joists. The plasterboard is there for fire protection of the wooden joists, so cutting holes in it for non fire rated down lights, kinda defeats the object.

Electrical Safety First recommends that fire rated down lights are used in all ceilings. The cost between the two are minimal, so I can't see a reason not to install fire rated down lights as standard.

Mind you, no ones banging on about extractor fans in bathrooms...yet.
 
Electrical Safety First recommends that fire rated down lights are used in all ceilings. The cost between the two are minimal, so I can't see a reason not to install fire rated down lights as standard.

Which some people translate into mandatory - which is misleading to say the least...
 
Great never seen those; this undoubtedly leads on to the question: if all cables entering accessories must to be secure, then why the design of the quick flow connectors without the clamps ? Are they designed for bigger cable, or rely on securing cable with a clip.

Who knows, why hasn't my favourite dram got a Government health warning on it :D
 
True enough, but your local building inspector would get pretty ****ed, if you removed the plasterboard and exposed the ceiling joists. The plasterboard is there for fire protection of the wooden joists, so cutting holes in it for non fire rated down lights, kinda defeats the object.

Electrical Safety First recommends that fire rated down lights are used in all ceilings. The cost between the two are minimal, so I can't see a reason not to install fire rated down lights as standard.

Mind you, no ones banging on about extractor fans in bathrooms...yet.
Sort of what I was thinking and then there’s the potential for insulation sitting on top of those fittings.
Apologies if I’m wrong but I gained the impression the OP wasn’t in the trade. I’ve yet to see a DIYer fit these lights correctly. Worst case being right against joists that were charrred due to the heat of GU10 lamps.
 

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Best way to wire in new GU10 fittings
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