Discuss First little job on own house - advice in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Yeh, it is a bit poor isnt it. I thought my criticism may have been unjustified as i thought both ends had to be connected to the cpc. However, then i check the termination at the other end and A. it isnt connected there either and B. the metal back box isnt connected either.




You are absolutely right. I shouldn't have assumed that just because it was almost brand new/done a few years ago by a big firm that it was done correctly.

I am glad i took the time to inspect it/ask these questions first.
ask questions, you learn. always best. that's what makes a good electrician.
 
You are absolutely right. I shouldn't have assumed that just because it was almost brand new/done a few years ago by a big firm that it was done correctly.
I bought a new build house just over 20 years ago and despite insisting on a test certificate which they seemed reluctant to do, a number of issues where found shortly after moving in that they were called back to sort out and I'm still finding some issues with the electrics now. Over the years I've found taped up cables where they have been damaged most likely by other trades under the floor ,faults in the central heating wiring to name a few
Even doing my own test at the time of moving in I wouldn't have identified some of the issues I've found over the years but you do rely on an assumed quality of workmanship when a lot of the installation is always hidden from view
 
New builds have notoriously sloppy bad wiring , years ago I rented a brand new flat with my girlfriend. It was brand new when we moved in very first occupier. I found about 6 bare connector block joints under the kitchen kickboard when cleaning. I found broken cpcs. I found 1.5mm cable on a 32a mcb. The immersion was wired wrong. The lighting was fed from 2 circuits but both circuits were cross linked so you had to kill both mcbs to actually turn off the power. The test sheets left by the consumer unit were bogus as the number of points served was totally inaccurte.

and so on

these flats were completed in 2008 ish so no excuse for such terrible wiring imo
 
What would generally be the correct way to make sure the opening where the wire from the wall goes into the back of the socket? There isnt a big enough hole for a whole gland and it might be awkward to make one.

Are there any specific fittings for this sort of thing or would simply siliconing the top and sides of the socket once it is done be acceptable (as that means no water could realistically get behind the socket)?

I mean, the junction box there at the moment doesnt have anything extra done to it. The wire literally just comes out of the wall and through a whole in the back of it with no further waterproofing etc. However, judging by their other emissions, i doubt the original installers have done it correctly!
 
To the OP - I don't suppose you have a label on your CU with the company that has the initials 'CE' on it. Your pictures look suspiciously like their 'workmanship' ?
 
What would generally be the correct way to make sure the opening where the wire from the wall goes into the back of the socket? There isnt a big enough hole for a whole gland and it might be awkward to make one.

Are there any specific fittings for this sort of thing or would simply siliconing the top and sides of the socket once it is done be acceptable (as that means no water could realistically get behind the socket)?

I mean, the junction box there at the moment doesnt have anything extra done to it. The wire literally just comes out of the wall and through a whole in the back of it with no further waterproofing etc. However, judging by their other emissions, i doubt the original installers have done it correctly!
The hole on the back looks like it might be a standard cut out 20mm, in which case a standard closed grommet would do the job. Sometimes they come with one.

Otherwise silicone filling that hole would be an acceptable option. Silconing around the socket is also not a bad idea, though not necessary if the hole is correctly sealed.

The box will probably have a space for a drain hole to be drilled on the bottom in one corner, which should also be done - some water may get in whatever you do, so it's best to give it an option to get out.
 
Not as far as I can see. This is the other end:

20210625-172453.jpg


So there is nothing linking the armour OR the metal clad switch box to the cpc...

Is that damaged insulation on live conductor to the load?
 
I’d say that once that socket is screwed back, it’s all earthed back through the SWA as it’s a metal back box.
Not something I’d rely on but with two fixed lugs on the back box, would that not technically comply?

If it were my job, I’d add a 2.5mm fly lead on that end though, and for the plastic back box, just swap the lock ring over for one of these and just attach another flylead.
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/earth..._WtAJX7X4y5YWR-XzRkaApI9EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Should take you around 10-15 mins.
 
I’d say that once that socket is screwed back, it’s all earthed back through the SWA as it’s a metal back box.
Not something I’d rely on but with two fixed lugs on the back box, would that not technically comply?

If it were my job, I’d add a 2.5mm fly lead on that end though, and for the plastic back box, just swap the lock ring over for one of these and just attach another flylead.
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/earth..._WtAJX7X4y5YWR-XzRkaApI9EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Should take you around 10-15 mins.

Yes, i have been thinking about this, and i guess it does just about meet regulations maybe? Obviously it is relying on the bare minimum though.
 
I'm surprised that something like that would have got passed initial verification on something only two years old.
I suspect that for some, initial verification consists of checking the contents of the brown envelope. OK, that's a bit harsh - checking that whoever does it can fill in the paperwork well enough not to arouse suspicion.

FWIW, a few years ago my mother was looking at a new build. I was primed to pick up on the electrics and call the contractor out for fraud, and their scam for being useless. Some of the failings were "sort of understandable" (such as the cables in the kitchen not in a safe zone, because they'd left extra length for after the units were fitted, but the socket ended up several feet to one side), but others weren't (such as meter tails buried in the plaster and not RCD protected). Thankfully my mother decided that it wasn't going to be the right property for her. Nothing was "good" about that house - the electrics were "minimal", the plumbing was 'kin sh**e, it was designed to give her cold feet (solid concrete slab, insulated but not heated), and pretty well everything was "minimum the BRs allowed".
As it is, I'd already phoned the insurance company that was going to be providing the 10 year builders insurance and told them I had reservations about the stairs - 1/4" sag in some treads even after having been bodged underneath with random bits of timber ! I didn't think it a good idea leaving something that might mean ripping out the stairs and re-doiong them, along with all the re-decorating, till after she'd be moving in. Clearly my reservations were correct, it happened that shortly after that, my mother went to tell him she was pulling out (the house was supposed to have been ready at least a year earlier and still wasn't), and she called me to say that the vendor was in tears and saying that I'd caused him a lot of trouble.

And then there was a program on telly a year or two ago that looked at problems with some new builds. Examples included some built by one of the big outfits, who self-certify for BRs, and which had faults such as insulation still being in it's rolled up and bagged state just left in the loft - the builder had to take roofs off to fix that (sloping ceilings).

So no, never assume that because it's new and "signed off" that it isn't a load of sh**e - because some of it is a load of sh**e.
What would generally be the correct way to make sure the opening where the wire from the wall goes into the back of the socket?
And no-one's commented on the other fail there - it doesn't look like the cable has any protection as it passes through the cavity.
 

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