Garage electrics from main house

[westward10]

Which question in post #18 is concerning you?

All of them.

 

[Neptune]

All of them.

OK...
Let's go through the first one on the "garage consumer unit" not having back entry for cables and asking whether people sink some of it in the plasterboard to hide the incoming cables on top and bottom.

Why is that a shocking question?

 

[westward10]

OK...
Let's go through the first one on the "garage consumer unit" not having back entry for cables and asking whether people sink some of it in the plasterboard to hide the incoming cables on top and bottom.

Why is that a shocking question?

I am not going to entertain you with an answer.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Case closed what the man's says above , I mentioned this in post #2.

 

[DPG]

OK...
Let's go through the first one on the "garage consumer unit" not having back entry for cables and asking whether people sink some of it in the plasterboard to hide the incoming cables on top and bottom.

Why is that a shocking question?

I'm someone who is all for people doing their own things within their comfort zone and ability. Electrics, car repairs, plumbing, whatever. However, I think you do need to get an electrician in for this one. Some of the things you are asking (eg. how to join 2 cables of differing sizes, and how to get cables into the CU) show that you lack some key knowledge to complete this job. And that's before we get on to doing the necessary testing.

There's no shame in knowing your limits. You seem more capable than most DIYers and you should be proud of that.

It's like car repairs - I can do the basics such as servicing, brake replacement etc. but anything beyond that goes to the mechanic so I know it gets done safely.

 

[littlespark]

I'm someone who is all for people doing their own things within their comfort zone and ability. Electrics, car repairs, plumbing, whatever. However, I think you do need to get an electrician in for this one. Some of the things you are asking (eg. how to join 2 cables of differing sizes, and how to get cables into the CU) show that you lack some key knowledge to complete this job. And that's before we get on to doing the necessary testing.

There's no shame in knowing your limits. You seem more capable than most DIYers and you should be proud of that.

It's like car repairs - I can do the basics such as servicing, brake replacement etc. but anything beyond that goes to the mechanic so I know it gets done safely.

Agree with this, but need to question the bottom paragraph.

I would say brake replacement should be done by a mechanic. How would your insurance fare if you crashed because your car didn’t stop when it should have…. Because you replaced the brakes yourself.

Personal experience. One of my first cars, my dad changed the pads… They worked fine, but didn’t release. Had to change them again 3 months later because it was braking all the time.

Could also argue that anyone shouldn’t be responsible for changing a wheel, as it might fall off at speed if not done properly.


Im guilty of it myself, instantly telling someone to get a professional in… sometimes it is the best advice when the OP asks something completely out of order….
This thread started off ok, but the mention of joining onto 10.00mm is unnecessary.

A couple of years ago, @Dan the forum boss posted guidance on how to help DIY, which I alluded to by saying DIYers would do the work anyway, with or without our help.

 

[DPG]

Agree with this, but need to question the bottom paragraph.

I would say brake replacement should be done by a mechanic. How would your insurance fare if you crashed because your car didn’t stop when it should have…. Because you replaced the brakes yourself.

Personal experience. One of my first cars, my dad changed the pads… They worked fine, but didn’t release. Had to change them again 3 months later because it was braking all the time.

Could also argue that anyone shouldn’t be responsible for changing a wheel, as it might fall off at speed if not done properly.


Im guilty of it myself, instantly telling someone to get a professional in… sometimes it is the best advice when the OP asks something completely out of order….
This thread started off ok, but the mention of joining onto 10.00mm is unnecessary.

A couple of years ago, @Dan the forum boss posted guidance on how to help DIY, which I alluded to by saying DIYers would do the work anyway, with or without our help.

Brake replacement is well within the scope of a decent home mechanic - there is nothing particularly complex about changing brake pads or even discs. But again, it relies on being in your comfort zone and understanding what needs to be done. I know a couple of people who replace springs and shock absorbers, and I know they are capable of doing this safely. Personally I'm not comfortable doing this so I would get it done by someone else.

 

[Neptune]

In case someone else wants to come along and provide some advice but also to clear this up. The question on joining 10mm cable had some context. Its there to provide future proofing as any future armoured cable from the house can connect to this.
The proposed join is an accessible join which I assume does not need to be maintenance free and I also mentioned that I’ve used wagos in the past. I’m not aware that wago do a suitable product for this situation.

I was looking for some validation and clarity around this.

 

[littlespark]

10mm is big enough for an electric shower or cooker… overkill for a handful of sockets and lights…

 

[Neptune]

10mm is big enough for an electric shower or cooker… overkill for a handful of sockets and lights…

If in the future, if we wanted additional draw, it will provide scope for that. I appreciate its well over spec’d for todays requirements.

It’s difficult to explain but if we wanted to upgrade the existing 2.5mm supply cable in the future, it could come and connect in this box and everything downstream is setup for higher loads e.g. 10mm to CU, RFC on 32 amp using 2.5mm cables, etc. There will be no need to rip up the plasterboard. That was my rationale.

 

[DPG]

If in the future, if we wanted additional draw, it will provide scope for that. I appreciate its well over spec’d for todays requirements.

It’s difficult to explain but if we wanted to upgrade the existing 2.5mm supply cable in the future, it could come and connect in this box and everything downstream is setup for higher loads e.g. 10mm to CU, RFC on 32 amp using 2.5mm cables, etc. There will be no need to rip up the plasterboard. That was my rationale.

The idea is sound, and it makes sense to future proof things.

 

[Neptune]

And…I plan to use 60amp terminal strip to join the 10mm and 2.5mm cable inside the box I have situated in the wall. Will be covered with blanking plate.

 

[UNG]

In case someone else wants to come along and provide some advice but also to clear this up. The question on joining 10mm cable had some context. Its there to provide future proofing as any future armoured cable from the house can connect to this.
The proposed join is an accessible join which I assume does not need to be maintenance free and I also mentioned that I’ve used wagos in the past. I’m not aware that wago do a suitable product for this situation.

I was looking for some validation and clarity around this.

This just seems to be a penny pinching solution
Why not just replace the cable back to the CU from your garage unit in one continuous length would probably give you a bit more kudos.

 

[Neptune]

This just seems to be a penny pinching solution
Why not just replace the cable back to the CU from your garage unit in one continuous length would probably give you a bit more kudos.

May be at some point…
Will cause havoc by way of redecor that will be required. Also, this is ample capacity for what I need at the moment. Should it need to be increased, I’ve tried to future proof and avoid re-work wherever possible.

Thanks for your help

 

[brianmoooore]

I know a couple of people who replace springs and shock absorbers, and I know they are capable of doing this safely. Personally I'm not comfortable doing this so I would get it done by someone else.

No one should be comfortable changing coil springs on a strut. The effects of the energy released when a clamp slips off of a compressed coil spring can be frightening. I always tie some strong string between the spring and a fixed object to at least stop it bouncing off every wall in the workshop.

 

[nicebutdim]

No one should be comfortable changing coil springs on a strut. The effects of the energy released when a clamp slips off of a compressed coil spring can be frightening. I always tie some strong string between the spring and a fixed object to at least stop it bouncing off every wall in the workshop.

It's not difficult to do safely with the right equipment, but those cheap clamps that people use are frightening.