Z

Zeropotential

Hey all,

I installed two LED SAL double spot lights (with no sensor) and the customer rang and said they are glowing at night when the switch is off. I looked in to it and i found the term ghosting. They are not two wayed but they are switched together.
Has any one eles had this problem?
What did you do to fix it?
I read that a zener diode may fix it. if so how would i install it? would i put the diode at the light terminals? (across the sw active and neutral).

thank you for your help
 
I once had this and reversed the polarity/ way the lamp was wired.
 
Hey all,

I installed two LED SAL double spot lights (with no sensor) and the customer rang and said they are glowing at night when the switch is off. I looked in to it and i found the term ghosting. They are not two wayed but they are switched together.
Has any one eles had this problem?
What did you do to fix it?
I read that a zener diode may fix it. if so how would i install it? would i put the diode at the light terminals? (across the sw active and neutral).

thank you for your help
Did you use quality lamps.
 
I used SAL SE7080/2TC/BK twin spot light from the wholesaler. I haven’t had a problem with them before.
 
Before deciding how to fix it you need to establish what is causing the problem.

What testing have you carried out so far?
 
Fit an R-C snubber across the lamp

One of THESE will sort you out
 
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Before deciding how to fix it you need to establish what is causing the problem.

What testing have you carried out so far?
None yet. I’m yet to go back to the job. I don’t even know how much power is coming through. What do you suggest?
 
The challenge with LED lamps is that they need a miniscule amount of current and voltage to start to tickle them, and often this can 'disappear' under normal testing due to the impedances of meters. Induced voltage from adjacent laying cables is normally the culprit, although you might try changing the switch too, just in case. I don't know what off-the-shelf products exist in Australia to combat this, but in the UK/Europe we use 'snubbers' which are inexpensive and simply 'drop' the residual forward voltage on the cable to below threshold levels.
 
The challenge with LED lamps is that they need a miniscule amount of current and voltage to start to tickle them, and often this can 'disappear' under normal testing due to the impedances of meters. Induced voltage from adjacent laying cables is normally the culprit, although you might try changing the switch too, just in case. I don't know what off-the-shelf products exist in Australia to combat this, but in the UK/Europe we use 'snubbers' which are inexpensive and simply 'drop' the residual forward voltage on the cable to below threshold levels.
Awesome. I’ll grab a snubber. Thanks mate
 
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The challenge with LED lamps is that they need a miniscule amount of current and voltage to start to tickle them, and often this can 'disappear' under normal testing due to the impedances of meters. Induced voltage from adjacent laying cables is normally the culprit, although you might try changing the switch too, just in case. I don't know what off-the-shelf products exist in Australia to combat this, but in the UK/Europe we use 'snubbers' which are inexpensive and simply 'drop' the residual forward voltage on the cable to below threshold levels.
Thank you.
Your "wide view" of suggestions might help me sort out an issue I am having with erroneous testing here in Ireland.
Check out my post on that topic.
RMS Electrical
 

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LED spot light glowing at night when switched off
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Zeropotential,
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