1Justin

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May 20, 2011
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If you're a qualified, trainee, or retired electrician - Which country is it that your work will be / is / was aimed at?
United Kingdom
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Practising Electrician (Qualified - Domestic or Commercial etc)
Business Name
Circitas Ltd
Diversity.

How do you tend to justify domestic installations when you come across what seems to be really common 60A BS1361 supplier fuses, where it all looks too tight according to recommendations in OSG?

Say we find 30A ring upstairs and 30A ring downstairs for starters. (plus 2 x lights ccts, immersion and cooker - not hob). For the rings alone, clearly the customer won't ever be drawing close to 230*30 = 6.9KW at the same time in each. OSG recommends "100% of current demand of largest and 40% of others". I am struggling with "current demand" since the way I read it, seems to be either "whatever you decide" or else the rated breaker (in this case 30A). If I decided to use whatever seems reasonable, I might expect ~ 2..3 KW max for each ring. Using 100% plus 40% on this, and I end up with say 18A. for the up and downstairs rings combined. If instead I use the rated breakers figure I get 30*100% +30*40% = 42A just for the sockets which is crazy. - It's only a little house!

Using the lower figure (say ~18A) for the pair of rings makes diversity calcs (after adding in lighting, oven (no hob) immersion and shed) just about look credible with existing 60A fuse. Using the breaker ratings for the existing rings, and it just can't work out.

I will happily refuse to assume 100W for every luminaire which is just crazy, but how far do you take common sense for ring loadings in the face of OSG recommendations?

I guess I just want to be sure I can cover myself if I were quizzed during an annual inspection.

To put it into context, on this particular place, I am replacing an existing shed supply lash-up with 1 way RCD CU via Henleys. Needing to keep costs down for the customer and not touch existing wiring in the house which is a few years old but not dangerous. When certificating, I need to be able to justify the overall loading for the whole place. So no actual loadings will alter, and 60A fuse has sat there happily for years.

- I guess I could always fit 16A breakers instead of the 30's already fitted to the house rings, and also maybe re-fit 16 for the oven (now also 30A - but oven is only 2.5 KW, gas hob). This makes it look more credible, and on OSG method, diversity then looks just about do-able. - It doesn't of course change anything at all, - but does that make me go away looking cleaner?
 
the level of diversity that can be applied differs for every installation.
the OSG guidance of 40% of total circuit loading is still very conservative , you can easily justify 30 % of total which is why seemingly big properties can run off 60A fuses.
its always a lower power consumption than you think.
 
Diversity really is common sense. My own house has a 100a main fuse, but I have a 9.5kw shower on a 50a breaker, 5 x 32a power circuits, 13a towel rail, plus 4 lighting circuits. Looking at the power circuits, the only one even worth considering is the kitchen one....the others serve TVs and alarm clocks. The house has gas central heating and a wood burner, so the chances of the socket circuits being loaded with heating for significant periods is minimal. The shower is also a very intermittent load. And taking into account that a 100a fuse will happily take 200a for a good while - I'd really have to go out of my way to blow it due to overload alone! I bet I could happily bung in a 60a and that'd do fine as well.

Max demand of an installation should be the size of the main cutout fuse, cos that's really what it is, not sure if a scam would accept that though! ;)
 
Ah, the old chestnut on the Demon diversity/demand load dilemma again...


Unfortunately, to be totally competent in accurately assessing an installations demand loading, will only come with a great deal of experience. Until you are more proficient, try the breaker ratings X 0.4 rule, it'll get you somewhere near your goal.
It's doubtful a normal 2/3 bed-roomed house will be drawing much more than 45/50A at any time, or for any period of time....

There are many that think it's an easy task, but it's not as easy as they may think and will always come back and bite when they get it wrong!!
 
Last edited:
Diversity.

How do you tend to justify domestic installations when you come across what seems to be really common 60A BS1361 supplier fuses, where it all looks too tight according to recommendations in OSG?

Say we find 30A ring upstairs and 30A ring downstairs for starters. (plus 2 x lights ccts, immersion and cooker - not hob). For the rings alone, clearly the customer won't ever be drawing close to 230*30 = 6.9KW at the same time in each. OSG recommends "100% of current demand of largest and 40% of others". I am struggling with "current demand" since the way I read it, seems to be either "whatever you decide" or else the rated breaker (in this case 30A). If I decided to use whatever seems reasonable, I might expect ~ 2..3 KW max for each ring. Using 100% plus 40% on this, and I end up with say 18A. for the up and downstairs rings combined. If instead I use the rated breakers figure I get 30*100% +30*40% = 42A just for the sockets which is crazy. - It's only a little house!

Using the lower figure (say ~18A) for the pair of rings makes diversity calcs (after adding in lighting, oven (no hob) immersion and shed) just about look credible with existing 60A fuse. Using the breaker ratings for the existing rings, and it just can't work out.

I will happily refuse to assume 100W for every luminaire which is just crazy, but how far do you take common sense for ring loadings in the face of OSG recommendations?

I guess I just want to be sure I can cover myself if I were quizzed during an annual inspection.

To put it into context, on this particular place, I am replacing an existing shed supply lash-up with 1 way RCD CU via Henleys. Needing to keep costs down for the customer and not touch existing wiring in the house which is a few years old but not dangerous. When certificating, I need to be able to justify the overall loading for the whole place. So no actual loadings will alter, and 60A fuse has sat there happily for years.

- I guess I could always fit 16A breakers instead of the 30's already fitted to the house rings, and also maybe re-fit 16 for the oven (now also 30A - but oven is only 2.5 KW, gas hob). This makes it look more credible, and on OSG method, diversity then looks just about do-able. - It doesn't of course change anything at all, - but does that make me go away looking cleaner?
justin....
dont forget that the fuse in question will hold well n above its ratin for an age....before lettin go....
trust me on this.....very unlikely you will ever get to that on....say, a 3 bed house...
 
Hello..

I've recently asked a similar question - see my started thread 'A small panic about max demand', there was a lot of good advice.

One of the best bits of information that I had ready to show the assessor (if he had asked for it, which he didn't) was the following supplied by Malcomsanford:

http://www.electriciansforums.net/a...-maximum-demand-guidelines_network_design.pdf

View attachment 16334

Hope thats come through..

How old is that PDF?? Suppliers would be pretty silly using 3 1/2 core cables these day's... lol!!
 

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1Justin

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Location
Surrey
If you're a qualified, trainee, or retired electrician - Which country is it that your work will be / is / was aimed at?
United Kingdom
What type of forum member are you?
Practising Electrician (Qualified - Domestic or Commercial etc)
Business Name
Circitas Ltd

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Constructive diversity calcs. - OSG method or just keep it reasonable?
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