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davek

Hi all
I have been given a electrical installation job of a builder who's electrician has let him down so slightly stuck on price and layout etc as already quoted. this ia a dormer bungalow so the roof space it pitches and has 6" timbers roof spars and insulated with 100mm insulation. now I need fit down lights in all rooms including bathroom with a head height at top of pitch 1.9m. I have seen some light by Sylvania which are listed as ultra compact also was looking at using led and suggestions recommendation welcome
Regards
Dave
 
cant already quoted and plans passed etc. so need to do as originally planed also was thinking of making connections in light switch as there won't be any access one plaster boarded
 
I did not do the quote, previous electrician did but had let him down on start date so asked if I wanted the job. just looking for suitable solutions on which lights would suit best. and ppl thoughts on using the back of light switch as junction box.
 
Not a great lover of downlights myself but the last lot I fitted were the Aurora fire rated downlighters that can be covered with insulation. As far as I'm aware the house hasn't burnt down ......
[h=1][/h]
 
So you are doing the job for the price which someone else quoted?
I must say I think you are foolish for doing so, I would be submitting my own price and getting that agreed before I started.
How do you know the other guys let him down deliberately because he realised he got the quote wrong and was facing a big loss if he did the job?
 
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well that's not the issues the builder I have know for may years and trust I have only just started trading for myself the price is not bad, just seeking advice on light and best practice not why what etc.
 
I would only consider fitting LED 240V ones (I no longer install halogens, now that LEDs are reasonably priced).
 
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Use the lights specified in the quote then?

As for the installation methods, that can only really be decided on site by the electrician doing the job using their knowledge and experience to come up with the best method for the job.
 
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Oh and I never fit halogens, I make a not on the cert that only LEDs should be fitted, and if a new install I put a label on the cu and take a photo of it to say on LEDs die to high heat from halogens.

I fitted a load for someone last year that he insulated round, they had LEDs.
 
cheers guys, thanks for the response going today try get some cables in for first fix.
regards
Dave
 
Fire rated fittings still shouldn't be installed in insulation, I would use LEDs jcc ones as said and try to clear as much insulation as poss from the fitting, wiring them is going to require a lot of ceiling holes though!
 
I would only consider fitting LED 240V ones (I no longer install halogens, now that LEDs are reasonably priced).
that's the way I roll, small cost/small effort/small heat/small cable/etc etc. its the way lighting is going and it will not turn back, it is only going to get better. LED is the way forward. That's the way I see it and I'm sticking to it.
 
I did not do the quote, previous electrician did but had let him down on start date so asked if I wanted the job. just looking for suitable solutions on which lights would suit best. and ppl thoughts on using the back of light switch as junction box.

Absolutely no problem at all - I always do this with 2 way switching (upstairs/downstairs), wall lights, porch light etc etc
 
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Absolutely no problem at all - I always do this with 2 way switching (upstairs/downstairs), wall lights, porch light etc etc

hi hawk one of the reason I ask this was there will be no access to any junction box one ceiling goes in so though much better to use wago connecters in switch back box for testing etc, also need connect a fan to one of these but think I have a solution to the fuse issue most go on about
 
I also have no problem with looping at the backbox - as far as I'm concerned it's the way forward for things like downlighters, wall lights and modern light fittings where they don't provide the facility to loop.
Older electricians will try to tell you it's 'bad practice' because in the olden days pendants always had a loop terminal.

On a side note I'd watch the price as well, and make sure you can do it for the price the builder wants, or tell him you're going to need more money. If the original electrician was going to make good money out of it he'd probably be doing it himself.
 
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I also have no problem with looping at the backbox - as far as I'm concerned it's the way forward for things like downlighters, wall lights and modern light fittings where they don't provide the facility to loop.
Older electricians will try to tell you it's 'bad practice' because in the olden days pendants always had a loop terminal.

On a side note I'd watch the price as well, and make sure you can do it for the price the builder wants, or tell him you're going to need more money. If the original electrician was going to make good money out of it he'd probably be doing it himself.

Well just to update first fix done. The said electrician who quoted rang him saying he could it a bit cheaper. But funny how he let him done four days in a row to but cu bak on wall as ceiling was lowered and was in the way. Even been paid for first fix happy days
 
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Have you done a lighting design? This is what annoys me about so many electricians....they hazard a guess at how many lights they should install and where to fit them but without doing a proper design with proper software you don't have a clue.
 
hi hawk one of the reason I ask this was there will be no access to any junction box one ceiling goes in so though much better to use wago connecters in switch back box for testing etc, also need connect a fan to one of these but think I have a solution to the fuse issue most go on about
I'd be very interested how you go about the fan issue, as I'm in the same boat. 3 amp fuse reqd for fan , time delay reqd and to wire lights in loop in loop out
 
I also have no problem with looping at the backbox - as far as I'm concerned it's the way forward for things like downlighters, wall lights and modern light fittings where they don't provide the facility to loop.
Older electricians will try to tell you it's 'bad practice' because in the olden days pendants always had a loop terminal.
My thoughts entirely.
Some people are just to lazy to dig out a few more mm to make the back box a jb, its neat, it's tidy, its easier to work on and with the aid of wago/line connectors its SAFE and easy to access and a mind blower to your d.i.y. type person they are gonna be thinking ' WTF is this ' .
 
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