M

Metalmangler

Hi I am a DIYer, but I did have electricians training about 45 years ago. I'm installing LED downlights (IP65) in my upstairs bathroom. I have the loft insulation protectors (domed ones). The problem is that if I asssemble the light fittings as per the instructions the insulation protector dome will not fit over. The connector block fits at 90 degrees to the light fitting which makes the whole thing too wide. The wires have the heatproof insulation and they terminate inside a small plastic box into a small connector block. My question is would it be OK to do away with this small plastic box, which mounts on a metal 90 degree bracket and just use WAGO connectors? Even with LED lights I can imagine the temperature inside the domed protector will get quite warm as there are no holes for any heat to escape (unless I drill some). I can zip tie the T&E so that there is no strain on the joints if I ever need to replace a bulb. Will that be acceptable or do I just need to buy bigger insulation protector boxes? Thanks for any advice.
 
you could just move insulation away from the lights. 6" all round.
 
the downlights i use are OK to just fit and pile insulation on top. personally, i'd cut the bloody stuff away so there's none close round or above the fitting/we had a heat loss survey done a couple of years ago. existing 2" between joists against 10" itchy-poo over top. estimated annual saving in gas bill was £22.49.
 
If you have to alter the fitting in any way, then there are a few things to think about.

does the original bracket have connections for the earth, and does it need it for the exposed metal parts. Double insulated, the earth still needs connected through to the next fitting.

if using WAGO or other connectors, it would need to be enclosed in a box.

would altering the fitting void any warranty?

I personally would just move the insulation away as others suggested and not use the protectors.
 
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If you have to alter the fitting in any way, then there are a few things to think about.

does the original bracket have connections for the earth, and does it need it for the exposed metal parts. Double insulated, the earth still needs connected through to the next fitting.

if using WAGO or other connectors, it would need to be enclosed in a box.

would altering the fitting void any warranty?

I personally would just move the insulation away as others suggested and not use the protectors.
OK Thanks all. I will move the loft insulation out of the way.
 
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Some LED downlights can be used directly under insulation. Check the instructions.
 
You could try these:


Plenty of space inside them for the connectors that typically come with downlights.
 
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You could try these:


Plenty of space inside them for the connectors that typically come with downlights.
Yes that's the sort I should have bought. The round doomed ones don't have enough room inside for the fittings I have. Ta.
 
I have in the past used 4" soil pipe around downlights to keep the insulation away from them, found that most of them will just fit the connection block in with the light.
Sy
 
I have in the past used 4" soil pipe around downlights to keep the insulation away from them, found that most of them will just fit the connection block in with the light.
Sy
Flower pots. The proper clay version, not the plastic tat.
100% fire resistant, and a little hole in the top to allow a little ventilation.
 
You can buy the downlights with the spec that the insulation canv laid directly on top

How much is that affecting lamp life though, afaik the LEDs need heat dissipation
 
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Flower pots. The proper clay version, not the plastic tat.
100% fire resistant, and a little hole in the top to allow a little ventilation.
One of my favorite solutions too.A second option is to screw scrap 4x2 across the 2 joists wherin the Downlighter sits. This allows the insulation to be laid over and around the light fitting
 
Good idea! but Cor blimy 4x2 isn't that is a bit overkill??
 
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Metalmangler,
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