Dan I think you might have brought a two way switch. If so just connect your switched live to L1, if it appears that the switch is upside down, use L2 instead. Connect the neutrals together. Your permanent Live to light will go into com with the link from fuse. When using a two way switch as a one way, some manafacturers use L1 others use L2.
 
I know !!

Where's TC when he's needed?? :rofl:

and


Dan I think you might have brought a two way switch. If so just connect your switched live to L1, if it appears that the switch is upside down, use L2 instead. Connect the neutrals together. Your permanent Live to light will go into com with the link from fuse. When using a two way switch as a one way, some manafacturers use L1 others use L2.

There are several ways to skin a -----........

What you need for this recipe :

One two way switch plus one connector block

How to wire it up :

I can't believe I wrote that

How it works:


Well i found it hard to beieve that I wrote that


Guess where you stick the cpc?
Remember to whistle colonel bogy when you insert it !

Now, I can believe that i wrote that
 
Last edited:
Is it so hard just to give a straight answer?

I'm following someone's advice and, as a novice, just wanted to clarify something.

I'm pretty sure I know how to do this but as people on here will obviously know better I thought why not ask.
 
start with your FCU. from there feed a bog standard light switch. from this switch you need a 3 core/E to the PIR light. brown in common with the L from FCU. black in L1. N's in a connector Blue from FCU to grey of 3core, sleeved blue). then at the fitting, brown to Lin. black to Lout ( connected to light internally) , grey ( sleeved blue) to N in. connect cpcs to earth terminals.

edit: sleeve the blacks with a bit of brown sleeve or tape.
 
start with your FCU. from there feed a bog standard light switch. from this switch you need a 3 core/E to the PIR light. brown in common with the L from FCU. black in L1. N's in a connector Blue from FCU to grey of 3core, sleeved blue). then at the fitting, brown to Lin. black to Lout ( connected to light internally) , grey ( sleeved blue) to N in. connect cpcs to earth terminals.

edit: sleeve the blacks with a bit of brown sleeve or tape.

Spot on, thanks.

So if using Des' suggestion (grid assembly - fuse and 2 way switch) I can just connection block the neutrals together. As this is the same as you're suggesting with your setup.
 
connector block is fine as long as it's accessible, which it is if in the switch housing. and how i described it, you only neeed a 1 way switch. if you already have a 2 way, use common and L1.
 
start with your FCU. from there feed a bog standard light switch. from this switch you need a 3 core/E to the PIR light. brown in common with the L from FCU. black in L1. N's in a connector Blue from FCU to grey of 3core, sleeved blue). then at the fitting, brown to Lin. black to Lout ( connected to light internally) , grey ( sleeved blue) to N in. connect cpcs to earth terminals.

edit: sleeve the blacks with a bit of brown sleeve or tape.

That'll be the apprentice then??? :clown:
 
connector block is fine as long as it's accessible, which it is if in the switch housing. and how i described it, you only neeed a 1 way switch. if you already have a 2 way, use common and L1.

Surely a 2 way is needed? L1 perm live, L2 switched live. I need the light switch to toggle between live to PIR and switched live to turn on the light permanently.
 
If you use the 2way switch method then every time you switch over to bypass the pir, you will isolate the pir, then when you switch back to pir the light will stay on for a preset time ,as if just powering up.
If you use 1way method, then after switching to pir is should just go straight into auto mode and not come on unless pir sensesmovement
 
no. you need an unswitched feed to the PIR permanently on. otherwise, every time you turn the PIR supply on, the light will activate. the only switch to the PIR Lin should be the switch on the FCU so you can isolate if required.

- - - Updated - - -

beaten to it.
 
no. you need an unswitched feed to the PIR permanently on. otherwise, every time you turn the PIR supply on, the light will activate. the only switch to the PIR Lin should be the switch on the FCU so you can isolate if required.

- - - Updated - - -

beaten to it.

Entirely see your point now. Thanks very much for your help.

Dan
 


L1 here is the slave for a second light. So it's on the live side of the lamp, therefore, feeding my switched live to this connection will give me perm on, correct?
 
N,E, and L are your permanent feed, direct from the outgoing side od the FCU ( 5A fuse ). your switch L goes to L1 to switch the light on manually. to do this you will need a 4 core flex. 1.0mm will be adequate for 2 x 500watt lights. you then feed 2nd light ( if required - L1,N, E. that's assuming the fitting will accept 2 cables. some won't.)
 

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Security light wiring
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