Alarm bell test

[GT1]

With advanced apologies to any alarm engineers here for my incursion into their territory. However. I've had an alarm fault dropped on my toes and would appreciate a pointer.
And further apologies to those in the know because I don't alarms and something of a stranger to them.
Anyhow.
15 odd year old system with outside sounder not working.

Everything appears ok apart from the sounder and obviously I would expect the weather to have got in it.

However. My question is about how they are wired. The board has 4 terminals for the bell. One of which is showing 12v.
Is it the case that all the "switching" is done on the negative side of the wiring and within the board.?
I'm saying this because during a bell test there is no change to the status of these 4 terminals to the bell...
I want to rule out a faulty board before I climb up any ladders.
All fuses checked and are in order.
Any advice appreciated.

 

[mogga]

looks like 15yr old no instructions? I havent done much on the alarm front only put cabling in for old firms "alarm man" there are so many different types and so much you can do with them its like home automation,BMS lock doors remotly link to this and that ect ect ect Its a black art programming them even with instruction book
try getting the make,model number im sure the "Alarm guys" will just say "do this do that" SORTED

 

[telectrix]

with the panel lid off and the tamper disabled ( bit of tape ), first check volts between 12v+ and bell hold - . if no volys, check fuses on pcb. if fuses ok, it's a panel fault. if you have 12+, then set the system as normal. then activate the alarm. you should get 12v between the +_12v and bell -. to test the bell itself. take the bell + and bell - and stck the ends od the cable on the battery. if it sounds, then it's ok

 

[oldtimer]

Yep as above and just to point out the 4 connections are 12vdc + 12vdc- 12vdc- (return tamper) 12vdc- (trigger)

so the constant 12vdc +&- charges the SAB module the 12vdc- return tamper this monitors the corcuit 24 hours hence why when you take of the bellbox lid or you cut the cable you will get a tamper alarm. And the 12vdc- trigger is a switched negitive

So how to test without running up ladders well open the panel you will get a tamper alarm then disconnect the 12vdc+ from it terminal and the sounder should activate (dont worry if it sounds sluggish) then put it back in then get a small link of cable and link out 12vdc- and the trigger the sounder should go.

If nothing happens then there is a good chance that the sounder is U/S and if you are going to fit a new one and you have not done a lot of alarms then get a 2 metre length of cable and connect it to the panel close the door reset the tamper and test when you are happy then go outside and fit it .

Plus it would be handy if you gave us the name of the control panel

Forgot to add although bells have never been used for the past 20-25years the industry still calls the external sounder as the bellbox

 

[GT1]

All sorted thank you.

There is a minor fault on the board which means it doesn't trigger the siren when a test is done..
However it does trigger during an alarm..!!
It was this that threw me because my brain wouldn't compute what was going on.
The terminals do behave as I expect no I've got round that.

That said. The external siren is still buggered. I've just managed to confirm it that's all.
Right.
Where's the ladders..!!

 

[GT1]

new "bell box".
Cheers.

 

[telectrix]

why is it buggered if it sounds on alarm?

 

[GT1]

It wasn't making any sound at all.
Thus buggered.
Replacement fitted and all hunky dory.

 

[oldtimer]

It wasn't making any sound at all.
Thus buggered.
Replacement fitted and all hunky dory.

Yes thats fine but what was the name of the panel looking at the siren box was it a optima/accent by any chance

 

[GT1]

Nooo that's the new box i fitted..!

 

[oldtimer]

Nooo that's the new box i fitted..!

ok the suspense is killing me what is the name of the panel

 

[GT1]

Oh...
I'm sorry. I've no idea now.
I think it began with P..?

I'm not being deliberately dumb, honest..!

That new box is just a generic one I picked up from local electrical factors.

The fault on the system test threw me, but once I realised what was going in it was a quick job to swop out the old faulty siren. I didn't really take much notice of whose board it was. And like I said I don't generally get involved in alarms.. too fiddly for my big hands..!!

 

[oldtimer]

Well next time get the panel name as it does help and as for P it could be a Paragon panel

 

[GT1]

Paragon.
Yes. That's the fella..!