Am I missing something here?!

[AlanSparky]

I'm having a bit of an issue in my own garage which I'm hoping someone will spot what's wrong...

Just done a complete refit, new board, lights, sockets all painted etc etc and always wanted a PIR so we wouldn't have to turn the lights on every time we go in! Wanted the light feed out to come out the switch instead of the PIR so wired it like below..




Now the PIR is a Freidland (MK) Spectra 200 which i've used before and never had any problems with. Their rated to 1000w and I have 6 x 60w Samsung chip LED batons so 360w total. It's mounted quite high becuase it's a lot more sensitive with forward motion when higher.



I fitted all this about 4 months ago and it worked perfect, when working in there I flipped the switch to Perm. and they would stay on. Left switch on, on its own, and it would work on the PIR. Simple.

2 weeks ago the lights started to stay on all the time in PIR mode, thought the sensor had packed so got another one sent out. You have to do an initial 'Warm Up' period set up which I did and it worked fine for 2 days, then back to the same problem. Even with the power off to the PIR I'm getting continuity between L and L1 which to me says to me the contact is perm open.

Any ideas? Lights pulling too much inrush current? I thought it was the fact it was facing the dryer at first but that's never bothered it before.

 

[SJD]

A lot of PIR switches (and others like timers) have a much lower rating for LED lamps. For example, with a rating of 1000W resistive load, they might only be rated to 200W for LEDs due to the large inrush current they can have. Perhaps try to find one that specifies rated for an LED load at least as big as you have.

 

[AlanSparky]

A lot of PIR (and others like timers) have a much lower rating for LED lamps. For example, with a rating of 1000W resistive load, they might only be rated to 200W for LEDs due to the large inrush current they can have. Perhaps try to find one that specifies rated for an LED load at least as big as you have.

That's my thinking at the moment too mate If anyone has any good links reading this then please share!

 

[AlanSparky]

Just seen that Timeguard do a 420W one so that should work

 

[SJD]

Another possibility, Theben theLuxa S180 PIR motion sensor, which seems to specify max 500W LED, but it also gives a max inrush current of 300 A/200 µs. Perhaps worth checking if the LEDs you are using provide an inrush current spec.

 

[AlanSparky]

Another possibility, Theben theLuxa S180 PIR motion sensor, which seems to specify max 500W LED, but it also gives a max inrush current of 300 A/200 µs. Perhaps worth checking if the LEDs you are using provide an inrush current spec.

Spotted this one....

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4597701-surface-mounted-anti-tamper-pir-switch-white

Will check the spec of the LED's to make sure, thanks for the help.

 

[AlanSparky]

https://www.bltdirect.com/v-tac-led-batten-60w-daylight-6400k-7200lm-with-samsung-chip

Lights for reference, absolutely brilliant by the way. Insanely bright.

No mention of current so I'll get in touch with them

 

[PEG]

Yep,i'd be going for inrush issues,had similar fault on what looked like a suitably rated timer/relay,and the contacts had welded - twice,on,two separate devices.

A borrowed instrument,capable of measuring the short but peaky current,enabled a warranty claim,on what was a specified part.

 

[AlanSparky]

Yep,i'd be going for inrush issues,had similar fault on what looked like a suitably rated timer/relay,and the contacts had welded - twice,on,two separate devices.

A borrowed instrument,capable of measuring the short but peaky current,enabled a warranty claim,on what was a specified part.

Ordered an uprated PIR so will post back to confirm it's worked/not worked!

 

[Timbo]

Why not use a relay/contactor to switch the lights?