I heard that you DO have to strip off to get proper readings. Don't you also have to insert a 17th Ed chicken feather into your anoose for the test to be reliable?

Made me smile. And yes, I did google "anoose", to see if was current lingo!
 
I would suggest carrying out an insulation resistance test on the whole installation. A damaged cable anywhere could be contributing to this situation. I once had a situation where an outside soil stack pipe became 'live', and the builder was getting 'shocks' off of it. Turned out to be a lighting cable in the loft had been chewed by squirrels! Remember that electric shock of as little as 2-4mA can be perceived, 20mA is pretty painful and 50mA can kill, so your brother may well be receiving just a few milliamps. This would also explain why an RCD may not be operating. It also suggests that possibly, it is not the full voltage that is present. Have a look in the loft or wherever the water feed to the shower is, and maybe also the drain from the shower. Test any metalwork to the MET using an R2 lead (or an odd bit of singles) for voltage, and then continuity. If it is not coming off the metalwork, try the walls/floor etc. You may have a damaged cable within the building fabric that is 'livening up' the surfaces, especially when wet? Good luck, and stay safe!
 
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Hi,

Thanks for all the replies.

The water and gas are bonded and the hot water pipework and the radiator pipework are cross bonded.
It is fed from a cylinder which is fed from a combi boiler.
I have tested earth continuity and earth loop at the shower tap, the towel rail and the bath taps. All fine.
I have tested potential difference between them and also between them and the neutral and the earth at a socket. I have also tested the walls and floors to see if there was any voltage there. nothing

I did all this without the shower running. I am going back today to do it all again with the shower running. I will post later if there are any changes.
 
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Electric Shock In The Shower
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abneyelec,
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Old Tiler 19727,
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