L

LEDdriver

Hi All

Best wishes for the New Year.

After a full refurb, builder forgets the gas hob ignition cable outlet!

Current set up:
I have 2-Gang 45A Cooker & 13A Switched Plug Socket (combined) above the worktop. This ombinedc unit is supplied by a dedicated 6mm2 wire directly from the fuse board. The outlet of the cooker switch leads to a Flex for the oven underneath the worktop.

To supply the gas hob ignition cable I have the following three options:

1. From the oven Flex underneath the worktop, run a 6mm2 cable to a combined spur&flex. Will need to put the spur in location where I can access the fuse if it needs replacing.
Can I do this myself or do I need a qualified electrician do to this? ( Being qualified engineer who used to work on ships on electrical systems from 220V to 6KVA I am know how to do the job, just not sure if I am allowed to do it or not)
The isolation for both the oven and the gas hob will be via the main cooker switch, plus additionally the gas hob can be isolated from the spur if required.


2. Add a plug to the gas hob and connect it to the 13A plug socket in the combined 2 gang above the worktops. This option will not be the most aesthetically pleasing one as the kitchen is being done from scratch! The isolation in this case for both will be seperate.

3. Or just get an electrician to do the spur off the flex. I am a bit tight on the finances after the full refurbishment and need the kitchen asap as can't afford takeout anymore ;-)

Any advise will be highly appreciated.


Best regards!
 
Hi - sorry to hear about your Builder’s omission! Why not invite them to fix the problem? In the short term, perhaps put a plug (3A fuse) on the flex and run an extension lead to the least offensive outlet you can find. There may be outlets under the bench for things like water softeners etc that could be adapted perhaps(?).
 
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Hi - sorry to hear about your Builder’s omission! Why not invite them to fix the problem? In the short term, perhaps put a plug (3A fuse) on the flex and run an extension lead to the least offensive outlet you can find. There may be outlets under the bench for things like water softeners etc that could be adapted perhaps(?).
Hi Wilko

Thanks for your reply. I did consider that but it would be that the isolation will then be more than 2m away from the hob. Right now the worktops and cabinets are still out as I'm putting them myself so looking at the best permanent fix before the gas safe engineer arrives this week.

Cheers!
 
my suggestion..... replace the cooker outlet box with a dual back box the takes 2 single faceplates, fit existing cooker outlet on 1 side and a 13a socket on the other side. link socket to cooker outlet terminals with a bit of 2.5mT/E, then fit a 3a fused plug to the hob ignition. it's perfectly OK for you to do this yourself,
 
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Hi Wilko

Thanks for your reply. I did consider that but it would be that the isolation will then be more than 2m away from the hob. Right now the worktops and cabinets are still out as I'm putting them myself so looking at the best permanent fix before the gas safe engineer arrives this week.

Cheers!

Its for the gas hob ignitor, I wouldn't be concerned it was 2 metres away. I would echo the advice to get the builder/electrician back to recitfy.
 
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Is there not a cooker outlet plate below the worktop level?
 
Who's fault is the omission of a supply, for the gas hob ignitor?
 
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Single socket spurred from the outlet plate?
Easier and basically the same as @telectrix suggested above.
 

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Title
Oven and Gas Hob Dilemma
Prefix
UK 
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UK Electrical Forum
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LEDdriver,
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