Spotlights and kingspan insulation

[smiffy911]

What do you do when fitting spotlights in celings if the builder is installing kingspan insulation between the joists. I know there isn't really an issue with heat dissapation as I now tend to install LED's. Do you install cables and normal, builder installs kingspan and plates the ceiling, then once plastered cut hole through ceiling and insulation and hope your cables are still there. Or do you have any other ways of installing?

 

[telectrix]

heat or not, you need at least 2" allo round just for the fitting to sit right. get bob the builder to cut it out as he fits it.

 

[bigbaddave]

Just because your fitting LEDs think of Mr tight when they do and they fit 50w lamps.. I wouldn't be comfortable fitting them unless your fitting holders that only accept LEDs.

 

[deano116]

Quick question while on the subject, how do you earth a spotlight without a earth terminal or earth lug?


Or do you not bother?

 

[kingeri]

Maybe in ten or twenty years time we'll be able to design/install with LED only in mind?

 

[telectrix]

Quick question while on the subject, how do you earth a spotlight without a earth terminal or earth lug?


Or do you not bother?

you don't . the lamp holder is not connected to the fitting metal so it's class II

 

[bigbaddave]

Of it doesn't have a earth then it must be class 2, I'd allways connect the earth via connector or wago to ensure continuity to the furthest point

 

[kingeri]

Quick question while on the subject, how do you earth a spotlight without a earth terminal or earth lug?


Or do you not bother?

I use Hager or Line junction boxes on each downlight. T&E between the JBs allows CPCs to be continuous in circuit and be properly terminated. Then a length of 2-core 0.75mm heat resistant flex (about 9-12" normally) from each JB to each downlight.

 

[bigbaddave]

Dam tell is quicker than me

 

[telectrix]

I use Hager or Line junction boxes on each downlight. T&E between the JBs allows CPCs to be continuous in circuit and be properly terminated. Then a length of 2-core 0.75mm heat resistant flex (about 9-12" normally) from each JB to each dowlight.

exactly as i do. except i generally use 3 core flex but snip the cpc. can't be arsed carrying 2 core and 3 core flex.

 

[kingeri]

exactly as i do. except i generally use 3 core flex but snip the cpc. can't be arsed carrying 2 core and 3 core flex.

Lazy sod. Twin is a bit cheaper, so I suppose I'm just a tight git.

 

[telectrix]

and make sure bob the bodger ( sorry, builder) leaves your cables in the hole in the kingspan. otherwise he's going to need to do a lot of ceiling patching after you've found the cables with a lump hammer.

 

[deano116]

Thanks boys

 

[TAZ]

Evening All. I have never used any of the line JB's as of yet. I often use the hager downlight junction boxes, i am interested to get your input on these Line junction boxes are they good/worth trying. Thanx

 

[kingeri]

Taz - main selling point for me is price - the Line work out cheaper per unit. Just as easy to install.

 

[telectrix]

dog's danglies, mate. can even do loop in at first fitting using the connectors supplied with the lighting enclosures. loads of room inside the enclosures.

 

[TAZ]

Thank you my friend, i might just give them a try. I guess being a bit long in the tooth, I am reluctant to change the technology is moving faster than me at the moment

 

[telectrix]

i'm older than you and i can cope with them so i'm sure you can. LOL.

 

[BrianDB9]

Thought the idea was to avoid running cables in thermal insulation

 

[lauriehurman]

You're out of date Kingeri

1mm is the minimum for lighting now (1.5mm for everything else).

Laurie




Then a length of 2-core 0.75mm heat resistant flex (about 9-12" normally) from each JB to each downlight.[/QUOTE]