Discuss Flashing LEDs when fan and lights off in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Clanky boy - good evening Sir.

I was pondering one of your earlier posts which included a wiring schematic. I have included it is an attachment below.

In my blue balloon marked X do you in reality have three wires going to the single pole light switch?

I have another very simple idea to solve the problem.

Others might like to ponder it.
 

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Clanky boy - good evening Sir.

I was pondering one of your earlier posts which included a wiring schematic. I have included it is an attachment below.

In my blue balloon marked X do you in reality have three wires going to the single pole light switch? I have another idea to solve the problem.

Others might like to describe it. There are at least two ways of doing it.
Not my post #60 by any chance?
 
The OP Was advised early on that the switched live from the Manrose is automatic and the cable from the switch was not necessary, the connection ought to be from the Manrose timer to the fan, but the fan also has an internal timer which to my mind makes confusion for the Manrose unit.
 
The OP Was advised early on that the switched live from the Manrose is automatic and the cable from the switch was not necessary, the connection ought to be from the Manrose timer to the fan, but the fan also has an internal timer which to my mind makes confusion for the Manrose unit.
Mike, i don't undestand the 'Manrose S/L is automatic' - it needs a S/L input to function, hence the connection from the light switch. The fan and built in timer are not confusing anything, as they are effectively 'dumb' with the built timer set to max run on of 30 mins, and the actual run on time being controlled by the Manrose 1351cutting the permanent live.

Nicebutdim - taking the S/L from the JB is essentially the same as taking it from the switch so would still allow a path for the V to the leds, sonkoving it wouldmake no difference I'm afraid.

Everyone - I think i have found the issue. The manrose timer has 146v on the S/L terminal after the light switch is off - this is feeding back via the S/L in the switch to the led lights.

All the other other manrose 1351 timers I have in place elsewhere and working (6 in total) are showing voltages between 96v and 135v. I intend to install a 200v zener diode in this circuit see if this solves it.

I'll let everyone know how I get on. Diode due here tomorrow.

Regards Mark.
 
Mike, i don't undestand the 'Manrose S/L is automatic' - it needs a S/L input to function, hence the connection from the light switch. The fan and built in timer are not confusing anything, as they are effectively 'dumb' with the built timer set to max run on of 30 mins, and the actual run on time being controlled by the Manrose 1351cutting the permanent live.

Nicebutdim - taking the S/L from the JB is essentially the same as taking it from the switch so would still allow a path for the V to the leds, sonkoving it wouldmake no difference I'm afraid.

Everyone - I think i have found the issue. The manrose timer has 146v on the S/L terminal after the light switch is off - this is feeding back via the S/L in the switch to the led lights.

All the other other manrose 1351 timers I have in place elsewhere and working (6 in total) are showing voltages between 96v and 135v. I intend to install a 200v zener diode in this circuit see if this solves it.

I'll let everyone know how I get on. Diode due here tomorrow.

Regards Mark.
The 146V doesn't really tie up with the previous measurement you mentioned. Is it ac or dc?
It sounds like the circuit in the 1351 is different from that in the fan run on timer (which is probably a good thing!)
If your other Manrose timers are giving a similar voltage, are they not in parallel with LED bulbs and making them flash?

At this point I'd go for the double pole light switch solution.
I know, I know, you've got a brushed platinum light switch plate and can't possibly change it!

I suspect a 200v zener might not provide enough of a step change to operate the timer, but worth a try I guess.
Sorry the efforts so far have not fixed it.
 
If zener does not work we can use current single pole switch plate to control a mains coil relay with double pole Normally Open contacts like this one:

Finder 66.82.8.230.0300 - 30A Flange Mount Power Relay 230VAC DPST-NO - https://www.rapidonline.com/finder-66-82-8-230-0300-30a-flange-mount-power-relay-230vac-dpst-no-49-3969
Mr Marconi, Avo mk8, Mike and everyone else - the 200v zener has sorted it - thank God.
I'm now off to have 10 pints!!!
On a serious note, thank you to everyone that have chipped in, added value, and acted as a sounding board - you have all worked through this with me, putting up with my rubbish diagrams.
Thank you all again, and hopefully i won't need to bother you guys again,
Kind regards,
Mark.
 
Mr Marconi, Avo mk8, Mike and everyone else - the 200v zener has sorted it - thank God.
I'm now off to have 10 pints!!!
On a serious note, thank you to everyone that have chipped in, added value, and acted as a sounding board - you have all worked through this with me, putting up with my rubbish diagrams.
Thank you all again, and hopefully i won't need to bother you guys again,
Kind regards,
Mark.

Have an extra pint for me. Glad you got it sorted. Just shows there are some clever people on here. And me of course :)
 
Clanky boy: Please would you explain your choice of 'nom de plume'. Just curious 'cos for a sparks it suggests mechanical rather than electrical.
 

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