No Power to Golf Trolley Battery Charger

[afromau5]

Hi All,

I'll add some pics as soon as I can but just to get the thread started, I have a golf trolley battery charger that doesn't have any power.

The unit has a light that should light up when plugged into the power socket however this doesn's light up and no power goes to the battery. I have checked the fuse and also swapped to a new kettle lead but still no power so the problem must lie within the charger itself.

Is there a specific component I should be looking at as the culprit?

Just trying to understand if its worth fixing or just to buy a new one

Thanks

 

[Yozza19]

Capacitor would be the first culprit is there any obvious damage on the pcb

 

[afromau5]

Capacitor would be the first culprit is there any obvious damage on the pcb

Can't see any obvious damage. Dont see any bulge in capacitors either.

Added some pics if it helps

 

[Petej999]

Hi All,

I'll add some pics as soon as I can but just to get the thread started, I have a golf trolley battery charger that doesn't have any power.

The unit has a light that should light up when plugged into the power socket however this doesn's light up and no power goes to the battery. I have checked the fuse and also swapped to a new kettle lead but still no power so the problem must lie within the charger itself.

Is there a specific component I should be looking at as the culprit?

Just trying to understand if its worth fixing or just to buy a new one

Thanks

 

[Petej999]

OCPD Goosed

 

[telectrix]

replace it.cheap enough to buy.

UltraMax Smart Charger for 12V 3A Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Batteries

Buy lead-acid (SLA) battery chargers from the leaders in battery manufacturing, in the UK. Suitable for all different types of 48V SLA batteries.

www.ultramax.co.uk

 

[afromau5]

OCPD Goosed

Which part of the PCB is this? Is it visible on my picture?

 

[afromau5]

replace it.cheap enough to buy.

UltraMax Smart Charger for 12V 3A Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Batteries

Buy lead-acid (SLA) battery chargers from the leaders in battery manufacturing, in the UK. Suitable for all different types of 48V SLA batteries.

www.ultramax.co.uk

For a golf battery it needs to be a different connection and they are generally a bit more.

Was just wondering if its something i could easily fix for a lot less than £40-£50. If not then fair enough, was just hoping it was a straight forward part swap

 

[afromau5]

Which part of the PCB is this? Is it visible on my picture?

Just nudging this one

 

[telectrix]

can you post a pic of the plug that fits into the trolley?

 

[afromau5]

can you post a pic of the plug that fits into the trolley?

Its a Torberry connection

 

[robd]

As an electrician who owns an electric trolley myself I would just be replacing the charger. For what it's worth

 

[telectrix]

under £30 on fleabay.

or could always take up a sensible sport, like snooker or darts.

chasing a tiny ball round a big field. tut,tut. you don't lose snooker balls.

 

[Avo Mk8]

Where the lead connects into the charger, is that a fused IEC socket - and if so, is that the fuse you changed?

 

[afromau5]

Where the lead connects into the charger, is that a fused IEC socket - and if so, is that the fuse you changed?

No its not fused, just a normal one. The fuse I changed was at the plug end of the cable that plugs into that connector

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Repairing SMPSUs often requires signficant electronics skill. You might get lucky and find just the chopper transistor or line-side DC bus fusible resistor is duff, but sometimes there will be a dozen parts that fail at once, and if you replace only eleven of them and leave one bad one, all the others fail again immediately you power it up. I'm an electronic engineer with experience repairing SMPSUs and I would not tend to bother with one that I can replace off the shelf. Only if it is specialised or unavailable would I get stuck in.

The topside of the PCB has brown glue around various parts. Some versions of this glue turn corrosive over time and attack the parts, leads and tracks.That is enough to dissuade me from getting involved, but if you are curious...

If you have the skills to safely use a multimeter on a circuit that is live with 230V AC mains and 325V DC, power it up and check whether there is 325V DC on the reservoir capacitor. If not, check the NTC and possibly fusible resistor or wire-ended fuse either side of the AC inlet. If either is open, check the chopper transistor and reservoir for shorts. Also check for dry joints on the pins of the AC common-mode choke because there's a suspicious black ring around at least one of them.

If you have line-side DC check whether the chopper is running. If not check the transistor and anything in the primary circuit of the transformer e.g. current sensing resistor plus the efficiency diode(s). Also look for a high value resistor feeding the startup reservoir cap on the line side from the DC bus, that powers the circuit until it's running and can power itself. These often go high / open. If the chopper is running in burst mode or cycle-by cycle limiting, check the output rectifier and smoothing for shorts.

Beyond that you are into needing some proper diagnostic skills and kit.

Beware residual charge on the reservoir after powering up, if the PSU is not running. There are bleeder resistors but if they fail the capacitor can remain charged to a lethal level for hours or days. Always check and discharge if needed before handling.

 

[Avo Mk8]

Make an offer on this Motocaddy S0312 Lead Acid Battery Charger Golf Cart | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224634586485
?