Turbo actuator won't work, new actuator been fit! So much info inside thread

[alan0259]

Losing my mind with my 2008 Audi A6 3.0 TDI

Fault code 3348 for turbo actuator, clear the code, instantly comes back

Turbo and actuator has been swapped for a new recon unit from a specialist, pre-calibrated

Turn ignition on, the inlet manifold actuators self test sweep, but the turbo actuator just doesn't move

I've tried my old actuator, and a 3rd actuator, it still doesn't move (had it confirmed that they don't even need to be calibrated for the self test sweep).

It's on a 20A fuse in the engine bay under the windscreen, this fuse is good and everything else on the circuit works fine

Everything else on the circuit has been unplugged, no change

There's 4 pins on the turbo actuator plug:

Pin 1 - Ground
Pin 2 - Switched 12v live
Pin 3 - Goes to ECU
Pin 4 - Goes to ECU

I've even cut the plug off and have properly crimped a brand new plug end on

I've checked pin 1 and pin 2, 12v fine

I've tested continuity on pins 3 and 4 from both ends and this is absolutely perfect, 001 reading on the multimeter

I've cleaned the pins on the ECU with a dental teepee brush (they were already spotless but worth a shot) and sprayed contact cleaner

When I scan with VCDS the only change I get with the code is if the turbo actuator is plugged in or unplugged. Unplugged I get a duty cycle of 0.4% and plugged in I get 20.5% (I'm guessing this is proving pins 3 and 4 are good which go to the ECU?)

At a loss with it, the only thing I can think is that the ECU may be at fault, but everything else is working fine and I can't find anything online with ECU problems like this

Any clues guys?

Thanks

 

[Auto Technician]

If it were me doing the testing I'd want to know that PIN 1 has 0V present when circuit active. Pin 2 needs more than 12V ideally because a battery with 12V present is discharged. 12.5 to 12.7V I'd like to see there. Pins 3 and 4 need to be tested on a scope really. That said depending upon the data being transmitted you might not be any better off either!! You've read fault codes but I suspect you've not read the live data for that fault code? Has your scanner not got a function to drive actuators? The parts cannon really is the last straw. Doing diagnostics that way becomes really expensive.

You might want to check this out; 19804/P3348/013128 - Ross-Tech Wiki - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19804/P3348/013128

 

[ClintF]

If it were me doing the testing I'd want to know that PIN 1 has 0V present when circuit active. Pin 2 needs more than 12V ideally because a battery with 12V present is discharged. 12.5 to 12.7V I'd like to see there. Pins 3 and 4 need to be tested on a scope really. That said depending upon the data being transmitted you might not be any better off either!! You've read fault codes but I suspect you've not read the live data for that fault code? Has your scanner not got a function to drive actuators? The parts cannon really is the last straw. Doing diagnostics that way becomes really expensive.

You might want to check this out; 19804/P3348/013128 - Ross-Tech Wiki - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19804/P3348/013128

Good morning from South Africa,
I have the exact same problem as above, I however do not find this 20A fuse that everyone keeps talking about, is it possible to get a wiring diagram so that I can trace wires to the ECU to check for faults
Clint

 

[Auto Technician]

An autoscan tells us a lot and provides us plenty information about the car in question. Members can then check data,codes, engine codes etc against any manufacturer data they have to come back to you with. I have tonnes of data but don't want to spend the rest of my life searching it until I retire. Autoscan please...