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When Is 0.5ohms Not 0.5ohms?

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NickD

Just finished some testing at a roughly 30yr old 2 bed flat which has been vacant for a couple of years. Carried out usual 3-stage dead test for socket ring continuity (definitely correctly cross-wired). Only fixed appliance connected to ring (kitchen fan) has been 2-pole isolated out. All inspected sockets appear to be on the ring, no spurs found. Continuity around the ring is near enough what it should be (r1 0.77, rn .85 - aware there is a slight imbalance there - and r2 1.39; it's wired in 2.5+1.5 T&E, 1.39*1.5/2.5 = 0.83). Lowest insulation resistance on the ring is >500Mohm. Ze is 0.1ohm on TNCS. EXpected R1+R2 = (1.39+.77)/4 = 0.54ohms.


Sockets all appear to be original fitment and are a bit rubbish, given that they required a certain amount of coaxing (repeatedly cycling switch on/off, test plug in/out/in/out a few times) to get reasonable readings on. One double socket I actually replaced during testing because one half of the double refused to come below 1ohm R1+R2.


There's a further cluster of three sockets which won't come down below about 1ohm R1+R2 - however if you measure them directly onto the terminals at the rear they read fine, well within 0.54ohm +/- 0.05. figure. Taking the at-front reading gives a Zs of around 1.1ohm and so a fail on 0.4s disconnect time (BS1361 30A, max permitted Zs reading of 0.92). So far, so straightforward. Sockets are pants, fail.


However, if you then do a direct live test for Zs at one of the sockets, it comes in at about 0.45ohms, both on the socket on the front AND (with care and sheathed probe tips) on the terminals at the rear. Now, please put the torches and pitchforks down, because I am not daft enough to rely on this reading to provide a test pass - I know there is a parallel path in the installation, about 0.6ohm, from some point on the socket ring CPC back to the earth bar, because I've measured it. (No other parallel paths down to the mass of earth though, I checked*). So why do I bring this up? Because the point is, when you dead test the socket innards add an extra 0.5ohm, enough to cause a fail; yet when you test live, it's not there, reads 0.45ohm front or rear. ****Why?**** Where's the 0.5ohms gone? (Can it really be down to the metering difference, in the way the meter tests for continuity and Zs? I'm aware they're very different.)


I am in no doubt that I have to fail this - (Ze+measured dead test R1+R2) > Zsmax, end of story. But what am I to make of this 'disappearing' offending extra 0.5ohm? Plus I am concerned that if the customer gets someone else in to confirm, first thing they'll do is Zs on the suspect sockets which will show a pass (yes, a rubbish one unfairly assisted by parallel paths, but then I'm reliant on the tester being on the ball enough to recognise that and not just say "Oh he's talking b****cks, it's fine"). And then they'll think I'm taking the mickey to make up extra work.


Thoughts? Cheers.


(*if you whip the earthing conductor out of the earth bar in the DB and test continuity between earthing conductor and earth bar, there is none [>2kohm], hence there is no other good path to earth in the installation other than the earthing conductor.)
 
You forget we have blinkered views on products that we buy will be to a certain standard just because we expect it... as well as this copper is a medium reactive substance in the presence of moisture so internal contacts will oxidise in an atmosphere that is regular subject to damp conditions and also mucky contaminated plug pins can leave a residue in the sockets all of which can easily equate to a very small 0.5 ohms resistance.

I found it quite common to have elevated R1+R2 reading on sockets in houses that have damp issues and mold up the walls but many negate this while testing and implement the reading through the socket as a wiring problem ... or even spuring out of the ring main
 
Nick I would be more bothered about the slight differences r1 and rn on your end to ends, IME they usually measure within 0.01 of each other unless there is a slack terminal at one of the S/Os.

I have had where the conductors have been twisted together behind the S/O giving reasonable end to ends before but a high/er reading at the font of the outlet due to being slack at the terminals at the back.

Re: your parallel path, sometimes this has been a boiler spurred off the ring final somewhere and reading via the boilers supply CPC and the gas/water pipes' bonding.

Other than that, if a socket is giving quite a higher reading at the front I usually just replace it, sometimes you get quite a difference between the two outlets on the same double S/O, like DW said if it is more than just a little out then replace it.
 
well...no doubt you walked off from this little post thinking `HA...thats told him then`.....

Now, now, dont get itchy under the collar. Im not into scoring cheap browny points!

All I'm doing is explaining my way of Zs'ing as opposed to yours of direct measurement. What you want to read in to that is upto you ......
 
I'm not sure I do concur, as I just said I trust Ohm's Law and my meter's R Low Ohms accuracy (got the calibration certificate to prove it :) and a resistance that persists even after 230V applied is not a mirage.

Well use Ohms law then and use your meters dc voltage as your value then use your operational voltage as the value and see the difference!



What kind of differences between front and rear measurement would you consider large and small in this context?

The kind that means a pass or fail!.... If is a pass either way then no issue if a fail like any situe' you do a few initial checks to ensure the basics are not the cause like a loose terminal etc on the socket.... if it passes testing behind but not from the front then we have either a test lead with plug adapter issue or a socket issue.
 
You forget we have blinkered views on products that we buy will be to a certain standard just because we expect it... as well as this copper is a medium reactive substance in the presence of moisture so internal contacts will oxidise in an atmosphere that is regular subject to damp conditions and also mucky contaminated plug pins can leave a residue in the sockets all of which can easily equate to a very small 0.5 ohms resistance.

Indeed. And my point is that if it is that mucked up, it should fail.
 
Nick I would be more bothered about the slight differences r1 and rn on your end to ends, IME they usually measure within 0.01 of each other unless there is a slack terminal at one of the S/Os.

True, and up to a point a good reason for me to see if the customer cares to opt for having all the sockets swapped. I know that sounds like overkill but seriously, about two thirds of them I had to in-out-in-out-in-out switch-on-switch-off-switch-on-switch-off ad nauseam before they'd give reasonable readings.
 
Just a thought, did you zero your meter correctly with the plug lead on ?, my megger MFT (separates) doesn't have a plug lead for the R1,R2 etc. I use a socket adaptor that takes the normal 4mm test prods, and I have been caught out before by this.

Usually I find most of the time where I have had slightly higher readings at the front it is just poor plug/socket/lead interfacing, operating the switch once or twice too sometimes helps.
 
Indeed. And my point is that if it is that mucked up, it should fail.

Its is a false fail as i said but i also said it may show signs of a actually contact switching issue (poor old/worn plates) and i would routinely replace such a situe'...

what im saying is in theory the test voltage your using is prone to false negatives when testing through sockets but because of the many different causes that create this its wise to flag the socket for replacement but not necessary fail the circuit par-ce' if proved behind it is compliant as its known by the ELI results a fault will clearly trip within specified time as the voltage is real to normal working conditions.
 
the test voltage your using is prone to false negatives when testing through sockets

Flipping the coin, what you're saying is that the resistance is heavily non-ohmic, and so we should trust that a resistance that is quite clearly there when accurately tested with low test voltage will become negligible when 230V is applied. I don't see any reason to go with that hypothesis, but if you have one I'd like to hear it. Plus we know bog all about the nature of the resistance (slack contacts? tarnish? oxidation? general muck?) so how can we make confident predictions that it'll start conduction happily at 230V?

I suppose the bigger philosophical questions is whether the fixed wiring system ends at the terminals at the back of the socket or the socket receptacles at the front....
 
I totally understand NickD's concerns but there is a sense of drummed in modern teaching that gives you a parrot fashion response yes pass or no fail... we were taught to investigate to check for false negatives or positives and evaluate if you need to adjust your readings ... if the circuit is fine from behind the socket how can it be justified to say your going to fail it when it passes ELI at socket front but fails R1+R2 at socket front ... this shouts out your test voltage is a large factoring issue so from there you then weigh up your options and yes if a large difference id be recommending a new socket as expressed before as the cause cannot be always pinpointed.
 
Actually the 30/32 A OCPD (and Zs) is to protect the RFC, so if it measures okay at the back the circuit itself is fine, as DW correctly points out the S/O should be flagged for replacement, but to whether that is an actual fail is open to debate.
 
how can it be justified to say your going to fail it when it passes ELI at socket front but fails R1+R2 at socket front

Because the other thing that's different between those two scenarios, as well as the test voltage, is the presence of parallel paths. R1+R2 done properly is immune to them, ELI is at their mercy. I would bet my car that I'd have failed my 2394/2395 if I'd live tested Zs at a socket then used it as a Schedule Of Tests sheet result.
 
Flipping the coin, what you're saying is that the resistance is heavily non-ohmic, and so we should trust that a resistance that is quite clearly there when accurately tested with low test voltage will become negligible when 230V is applied. I don't see any reason to go with that hypothesis, but if you have one I'd like to hear it. Plus we know bog all about the nature of the resistance (slack contacts? tarnish? oxidation? general muck?) so how can we make confident predictions that it'll start conduction happily at 230V?

I suppose the bigger philosophical questions is whether the fixed wiring system ends at the terminals at the back of the socket or the socket receptacles at the front....
Thats what the Plug in ELI check will confirm ..forget its a socket and tell me how would you do the test (cooker point, spur etc ) your drop it forward and your point is really lost as what if the spur contacts are the same etc you would still miss them through routine testing. I admire anyone who goes this deep to understand their career as many don't give it a thought but try not to overthink this one..we are here to ensure safety and as of yet y advise would not compromise safety merely give you more flexibility in deciding if to pass a circuit or fail it.
 
What does 0.5 Ohm actually represent?
These measurements are taken getting towards the arse end of the instrument's range.
Then there are all the errors to take into account, probe contact, etc. etc. etc.......

Plus, I usually find a smearing of copper ease on plugs prongs always improves things! :)
 
Because the other thing that's different between those two scenarios, as well as the test voltage, is the presence of parallel paths. R1+R2 done properly is immune to them, ELI is at their mercy. I would bet my car that I'd have failed my 2394/2395 if I'd live tested Zs at a socket then used it as a Schedule Of Tests sheet result.
Im not telling you to totally rely on ELI results against obscureR1+R2 Im saying evaluate any difference and do a few small checks to ensure the socket isn't the cause then make an educated judgement to whether fail or pass the circuit on the merits of the front and rear results.

This subject goes very much deeper into areas you haven't even strayed across before like taking an PSCC reading when the 11kv sub TX is very close then see what crazy inconsistent readings meters give you due to resolution issues.
 
Because the other thing that's different between those two scenarios, as well as the test voltage, is the presence of parallel paths. R1+R2 done properly is immune to them, ELI is at their mercy. I would bet my car that I'd have failed my 2394/2395 if I'd live tested Zs at a socket then used it as a Schedule Of Tests sheet result.

I am not so sure on that statement, when I did my 2391 it was generally accepted that the measured Zs could be different from the measured/calculated Zs= Ze + (R1+R2), usually lower due to parallel paths.

There are two distinct schools of thought on this, some people prefer the "worst case" ie. measured /calculated (R1+R2)+ Ze, and others who prefer the in service measurement.
Both are acceptable.

Edit: RFC = Ring Final Circuit
 

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