What do you mean by control switches?

I was opting for the standard aico optical smokes/heat and interconnect them.

I will check out Zano, this will be up to the client to provide. Do you know if they do modules only? otherwise they are stuck with their front plates only, like varilight multipoint, deta master/slave dimmers etc.

Aico alarm control switch

Zano master/slave dimmers
 
Hi pppelec,
your confident but not to confident On some things.

do you know an electrician who can shadow you on this. Maybe pay the tester as you call him to go over the job at the beginning during and after. Also be there on hand or at the end of a phone.
it’s a great way of getting experience.
doing this without that back up may be too much first time.
I know that’s what I did when I did my first full rewire on my own.

the tester and certifyer will need to see the install at every stage anyway If he is taking liability for it.
In terms of wiring (first fix) I know I can do it 100%
Its just some of the components such as LED strips, dimmers.

I will be keeping in contact with the tester and documenting everything to him.
I will possibly get him to come look during and of course when he does the test.

Also I posted a question just above about a fan, any idea?

Thanks
 
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In terms of wiring (first fix) I know I can do it 100%
Its just some of the components such as LED strips, dimmers.

I will be keeping in contact with the tester and documenting everything to him.
I will possibly get him to come look during and of course when he does the test.

Also I posted a question just above about a fan, any idea?

Thanks
Is your tester registered Third Party Certification?
 
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I was thinking to go with Fusebox RCBO board with all type A.

Thanks I will check BS5839-6.

The heights are only for a new build house/flat though? pretty sure I read this somewhere, I will probably go with 450 & 1200 as it will be modern looking flat in london.

Also yes I have finished my apprenticeship/AM2. I will do the testing for my own satisfaction but some bits I am not too confident with. Also I am have not done my 2391, and I am not nic registered or any of those. So I will get a tester to certify it.
Fitted dozens of Fusebox CU's and they are fine.

Agree that the heights are for new builds but why not bring the installation up to modern standard when you have an opportunity to do so.

I dont understand how you will get somebody else to test and sign off your work?
 
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I haven't fitted Type AC in years. As far as I'm concerned there is no great reason generally speaking to fit Type AC any more. Personally I wish they would just follow the rest of the world and ban them, and then everyone would be competing with the same spec.

On a recent EV installation I did unfortunately someone had decided to helpfully "leave it ready" including a single pole Type AC RCBO and a cracked cooker switch (with loose terminals) as an isolator. Once I had finished the job (including a double pole Type A RCBO and a rotary isolator) the other electrical worker arrived and had a go at me and got all defensive as to why I had ripped his RCBO out and replaced it. No amount of explanation that it needed to be Type A at a minimum, and also needed to interrupt all live conductors and not merely the phase conductor seemed to satisfy him.

He had also put 16mm^2 tails through a 40mm knockout in the DB with a bit of grommet strip round it doing wonders for the IP ratings, and popped a load of knockouts at the bottom ungrommeted for the cable entries, and even a spare 32mm knockout on the side not being used. There was honestly more work correcting what he had done than had he left the bloody thing alone for me to do it in the first place.
 
I could never work out how an AC type would be more suitable than an A, I think it all used to be down to cost, but this has largely been eroded in recent times.

And a bit controversial why they are still available as single pole. (tin hat)
 
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Fitted dozens of Fusebox CU's and they are fine.

Agree that the heights are for new builds but why not bring the installation up to modern standard when you have an opportunity to do so.

I dont understand how you will get somebody else to test and sign off your work?
Initial verification...?

Me as the designer and constructor, him as the tester?
 
I was thinking to go with Fusebox RCBO board with all type A.
For many that is the default sort of choice, as type AC RCD are going out almost certainly with revised regs and the cost of the Fusebox RCBO setup is not much more than a dual RCD board.

Also they have SPD (I think) as standard, if not make sure that is included. Some ask the client and get drawn in to arguments on the risk vs. cost but for the < £100 for one on practically any board it is hardly worth the time and effort to quote two figures and discuss/justify it.
 
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Initial verification...?

Me as the designer and constructor, him as the tester?
Will that be proper testing ,or your say so job done, cash runner?
 
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Will that be proper testing ,or your say so job done, cash runner?
I think his Frenchy Third Party Tester will want to paid properly for a proper professional job.
 
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I'm doing something very similar @Pete999, and I will only expect a professional job for my money. Can't see why the OP won't expect the same?
 
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A new question arises:

When I went to see the place, the ceiling fan was wired, but the flexible ducting went up then into a flat pvc straight duct (approx 100x50mm) then went to somewhere where I could not see visually.

They said they will have a loft hatch in the bathroom as soon as you enter.

How would I go about deciding which fan to get?
I was thinking a centrifugal fan?
Was thinking about those inline fans too but you would need to climb into the loft space, and where the inline should be put, I don't think the ceiling will be too stable to work on...
An online fan is a great option when you have a loft as you get the benefit of noise reduction too. Which is especially handy at night. Your issue will likely be the 4 " exit hole. Will it be roof, wall or possibly soffit. You need to check the easiest option. If it's too difficult for you to do yourself get the homeowner to arrange it
 
An online fan is a great option when you have a loft as you get the benefit of noise reduction too. Which is especially handy at night. Your issue will likely be the 4 " exit hole. Will it be roof, wall or possibly soffit. You need to check the easiest option. If it's too difficult for you to do yourself get the homeowner to arrange it
Should an inline be fitted in with a standard/timer axial fan or just a grill?
It is in a flat I am not sure where it goes out, if I take the job on, I will investigate when doing the downlights.
 
Should an inline be fitted in with a standard/timer axial fan or just a grill?
It is in a flat I am not sure where it goes out, if I take the job on, I will investigate when doing the downlights.
Timer on the fan is the homeowners call. I usually wire the fan direct to the light switch rather than loop it from bathroom light. If homeowner wants fan switched separately he then has that option.
 
Timer on the fan is the homeowners call. I usually wire the fan direct to the light switch rather than loop it from bathroom light. If homeowner wants fan switched separately he then has that option.
sorry let me rephrase, what I meant was... If I install the inline fan in the loft space like you recommend because of of the noise, am I meant to install the inline fan motor with an axial fan or just the inline fan on its own with a grill? I would of thought it would be better with an axial fan as the axial fan pushes to the inline, then the inline helps push it out more...
yes I agree with the separate switching, I have that at home
 
When you say axial fan, do you mean centrifugal .
 
When you say axial fan, do you mean centrifugal .
axial as in the normal standard/timer fans with average suction power.
what would you recommend?
 
sorry let me rephrase, what I meant was... If I install the inline fan in the loft space like you recommend because of of the noise, am I meant to install the inline fan motor with an axial fan or just the inline fan on its own with a grill? I would of thought it would be better with an axial fan as the axial fan pushes to the inline, then the inline helps push it out more...
yes I agree with the separate switching, I have that at home
My modus operandi with inline fans has always been to buy the complete kit from the wholesalers.I always go for highest wattage. Nothing as pleasing as watching a sheet of toilet paper stuck to the grill when extractor fan operates. I normally connect fan with flex first and check its operation before installing it in the attic. If fan has a timer I make sure homeowner decides the overrun time before I install it. It can be a nuisance mucking about with a fan timer in a small attic. Lastly a little rubber placed between the fan and the wooden grounds it's mounted to reduces vibration and noise.
 
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ppelec100

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