- Jul 22, 2011
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Indeed, if you cut the "welded" ends off, then a crimp or bootlace ferrule would be ideal.
The 16mm² into the RCDs is usually already in place when you buy the CU. The very fine stranding, and therefore great flexibility of the cables means that the cable often won't stay put, even if you attempt to dress it neatly. The tendency is to leave well alone and just check the tightness of the terminal screws. If you remove the wire and trim the end back to bring the insulation down to the body of the device, you run into the possibility of those fine strands getting loose and needing to put a crimp on as above.
E
Engineer54
I don't agree with that statement, all our panels/DB's that have inter-connecting fine multi stranded cables, are dressed into the desired final position. Just a little bit of time needed, to get rid of any packaging coils. Probably the easiest method is applying a bit of heat. Either way, i think i'd prefer to see a slightly untidy cable than bare conductor showing...
Amp David....
No idea about Wylex CU's, but i would have thought that at least 2 or 3+ of the terminals on the Neutral bar(s) would be suitable for 16mm cable or more. A 16mm cable crimp, be it ferrule bootlace or pin, will not be anywhere near that of the actual cable CSA.
BS 951 earth clamps on suppliers cables are a no no
especially as it looks like a paper insulated lead sheathed oil filled cable
I tink they call it the big bang theory !!
also I would not take a maine earth from such a cable you are far safer using an electrode unless the supplier tells you its ok
especially as it looks like a paper insulated lead sheathed oil filled cable
I tink they call it the big bang theory !!
also I would not take a maine earth from such a cable you are far safer using an electrode unless the supplier tells you its ok
sorry tone my words got posted in the wrong place
the website keeps doing funny things
i am off for a beer before it rains again
the website keeps doing funny things
i am off for a beer before it rains again
Totally agree with you, exactly what i thought. For whatever reason the crimping tool crimps the ferule into a square shape and its just the corners are just to wide.
Unless the tri rated in the Wylex stuff is only 10mm and I'm trying to crimp on a 16mm ferule
A
alarm man
It was fibreglass or ABS from RS. It had to be non-ferrous as it was used on a glueing station where the operators taped a magnet to the glue gun and stuck it to the previous (metal) enclosure, the glue got everywhere gumming up a keyswitch and pushbuttons. I also made the aluminium guard below to protect the wiring from the same problems.
T
Toby Kuhnert
Hi everyone, Here are some pictures of an install I completed last week for my Elecsa assessment. I tried to be as thorough as I could in designing this and on the actual installing, but if theres anything you don't think is right, I would appreciate constructive criticism. I'm just going to enrol on wednesday for the level 3 2330 C+G. Thanks, Toby 
Heres how I did it...
The shed dis board was fed via a B32A RCBO in the main dis board. 6mm2 Twin and earth from then until the garage, then jointing onto 6mm2 2 core SWA using through crimps in an IP56 adaptable box. The steel armour being earthed by the TNCS supply at the house via twin and earth. The armour earth finishes at the point of entry at the shed with no inter-connection with the shed dis board. Then I knocked in a single 5/8" earth rod, fed that to the shed dis board with 16mm single core green/yellow. This gave me an Ra of 37ohms which I was happy with.
There are two HF fluorescent IP65 fittings, one 4' the other 5'. Both switched by single gang metal clad switch. Then a radial socket circuit supply two metal clad single gang socket outlets and one double gang metal clad socket outlets. Most of the circuits are run in 20mm plastic conduit, apart from where the cable will not come to any damage. There is also an IP66 double gang socket outlet on the outer wooden skin of the shed. There are no service pipes (water, gas) etc.
Heres how I did it...
The shed dis board was fed via a B32A RCBO in the main dis board. 6mm2 Twin and earth from then until the garage, then jointing onto 6mm2 2 core SWA using through crimps in an IP56 adaptable box. The steel armour being earthed by the TNCS supply at the house via twin and earth. The armour earth finishes at the point of entry at the shed with no inter-connection with the shed dis board. Then I knocked in a single 5/8" earth rod, fed that to the shed dis board with 16mm single core green/yellow. This gave me an Ra of 37ohms which I was happy with.
There are two HF fluorescent IP65 fittings, one 4' the other 5'. Both switched by single gang metal clad switch. Then a radial socket circuit supply two metal clad single gang socket outlets and one double gang metal clad socket outlets. Most of the circuits are run in 20mm plastic conduit, apart from where the cable will not come to any damage. There is also an IP66 double gang socket outlet on the outer wooden skin of the shed. There are no service pipes (water, gas) etc.
Last edited by a moderator:
S
Strima
View attachment 14233
Personally I would have butted the adaptable box and the CU up to each other purely for aesthetic reasons, also used a smaller adaptable box to save cutting into the timber frame, I hope the frame isn't bearing much weight. Also run the earth back through the box and out of the bottom, but that's just me.
View attachment 14237
The way the box is mounted the ship lap will allow water to run straight onto the mating surface of the outlet, I would bring it out with a couple of batons just to be safe.
Ra of 37 ohms is good, get another rod in and get better, it's all good practice.
Edit: Blinding flash of light... Why not terminate the SWA straight into the CU as it's a plastic enclosure, just don't connect the earth/armour fly lead?
Personally I would have butted the adaptable box and the CU up to each other purely for aesthetic reasons, also used a smaller adaptable box to save cutting into the timber frame, I hope the frame isn't bearing much weight. Also run the earth back through the box and out of the bottom, but that's just me.
View attachment 14237
The way the box is mounted the ship lap will allow water to run straight onto the mating surface of the outlet, I would bring it out with a couple of batons just to be safe.
Ra of 37 ohms is good, get another rod in and get better, it's all good practice.
Edit: Blinding flash of light... Why not terminate the SWA straight into the CU as it's a plastic enclosure, just don't connect the earth/armour fly lead?
Last edited by a moderator:
T
Toby Kuhnert
View attachment 14233
Personally I would have butted the adaptable box and the CU up to each other purely for aesthetic reasons, also used a smaller adaptable box to save cutting into the timber frame, I hope the frame isn't bearing much weight. Also run the earth back through the box and out of the bottom, but that's just me.
View attachment 14237
The way the box is mounted the ship lap will allow water to run straight onto the mating surface of the outlet, I would bring it out with a couple of batons just to be safe.
Ra of 37 ohms is good, get another rod in and get better, it's all good practice.
Edit: Blinding flash of light... Why not terminate the SWA straight into the CU as it's a plastic enclosure, just don't connect the earth/armour fly lead?
I was originally going to butt the two up directly but I had no luck in keeping the two rubber gromits in place. yeah in retrospect I should have used a smaller box although the frame isn't supporting much weight at all its part of a labyrinth of supports!
. I will bring that socket out like you say. i was originally going to terminate it directly but the dis board enclosure was so small, I was going to struggle to gland it properly, so I decided to gland it into a separate box to make sure it was done properly. I'm nervous about the assessment just trying to make sure everythings the best I can do thanks for your help
I would have used a metal or more rigid adaptable box in the shed, the SWA is distorting the box in picture (just asthetics). Where the T&E transitions to SWA, I've always drilled a hole at the side of the gland and bolted the earth ring to the box, then use a second nut to hold ring crimp on earth wire.
How did you get on pulling T&E through the tube, would singles have been easier?
How did you get on pulling T&E through the tube, would singles have been easier?
A
alarm man
i thought it it didnt look metal,looks a nice enclosure tho,in a sad panel man sort of way:redface:
T
Toby Kuhnert
I agree, I did think that once the SWA was terminated to the box, but it wasn't too bad so I didn't bother. I future I will do that however. about bolting the gland - we were taught to do that at college, I thought I'd try to do it another way (told by my mate who's a sparks) but it was harder if anything. Pushing the cable through the conduit was fine actually, the rigidity of the cable was fine to push itself through. I would've used singles, but I didn't conduit the entire shed, only the drops where the cable might come into damage. along the roof of the shed, the twin and earth is clipped direct.
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