**Show Us Your Installs!!!**

[Spudnik]

Right chaps,

Due to a few unavoidable issues, we have lost the original thread and pics etc.

Sorry about that!!!

So, if you want to re-upload your pics then great, if not, give us something new!


Cheers!!

 

[Konrad]

http://www.electriciansforums.net/e...-tell-us-about-your-faults-47.html#post566685

So how do we deal with what in the link above ?

Staff toilet replacement to 2D28W HF with Clix ceiling rose, and exactly the same track for GU10's installed above main entrance door to corridor. Lamps are Kosmic 6000 Kalvins LED's 5W each.

Whole staff and warehouse block 3 phase board with timer controls for staff showers. Missing descriptions of the circuits on the board itself only because I haven't got nice gel pen. Gonna do it on Monday. Nightmare to achieve IP4X for the top of the board.



Showers themself lights are IPX4 (GU10 fittings with Kosmic GU10LED's 6500 Kalvins) bigger in middle & IP67 (Emco) small LED's with emergency inverters - smaller spots on sides.


& Last for today's show is small project in warehouse. Lights and sockets on working benches, with light behind industrial massive shelves. D.B. was not installed by myself so any not straight SWA is not my art of work.


enjoy

 

[iamgary25]

This was my first solar install
I have not long qualified, i'm only 20, would be greatful for feedback

 

[Snapester]

 

[edrobbo8]

Snapester, just out of interest, why did you step the downlight out in the entrance way?

 

[Strima]

Snapester, just out of interest, why did you step the downlight out in the entrance way?

His chalk line had a bend in it... :lol:

I like it.

 

[trev]

I like it too, makes it look more interesting than a straight line of them

 

[Resu]

The boss' last CU in an eco house we just completed.

And something that came to visit (Wood Wasp). Bugger was huge!

 

[Snapester]

Well bascially the joist feel awkwardly so i decided to just put it to the side instead of looking wierd and too close to the others!
Kinda had no choice!

 

[Guest123]

Ere's a few........

 

[Guest123]

Managed to get em the right way up now!!!!:yes:

 

[Amp David]

Heres one with a new way to feed each suspended florrie



and another of a new CU in progress

 

[lemau]

Hi..I want share my Star Delta Starter Control Panel For Chiller Water Pump..

 

[Kevinmarshall]

Thanks JASON I got suggestion from your post for installation. I think these images are help to another people who want installation process.

 

[Knobhead]

Hi..I want share my Star Delta Starter Control Panel For Chiller Water Pump..

View attachment 13921
View attachment 13920

I’m sorry Lemau that is a mess. I would be ashamed to show it.

 

[telectrix]

a little control system i threw together for a local farmer's corn dryer. activates 2 elevator motors simultaneously with the unload motor. unfortunately, 1 of the motors is faulty. drawing excessive current. all IR tests OK. must be shorted turns on 1 or more windings. it stinks a bit. new motor coming tomorrow.

 

[Knobhead]

That’s about my luck Tel, fix one thing and then the next in the chain goes belly up!!
Nice and tidy panel though.

 

[telectrix]

That’s about my luck Tel, fix one thing and then the next in the chain goes belly up!!
Nice and tidy panel though.

it threw me at first. i had selected a 16A type C MCB as correct for the combined load of the 2 motors, only to see it trip on start-up. i then swapped it out for a 20A type C, and that's when i found the 2kW motor was drawing excess current. strangely enough, the overload was set to 4.5A and didn't trip, even though the outgoing 1.5mm cables were getting warm within a few seconds.

 

[Engineer54]

The boss' last CU in an eco house we just completed.

Not having a pop, just a general observation based purely on my own views on CU/DB cable terminations... The overall CU cable dressing arrangement looks pretty much fine to me...

Is it normal not to use crimped terminations for multi stranded cables such as those flying leads supplied on RCBO's etc?? Don't really like to see bare conductors on bars or entering device terminations either....

 

[HandySparks]

Is it normal not to use crimped terminations for multi stranded cables such as those flying leads supplied on RCBO's etc?? Don't really like to see bare conductors on bars or entering device terminations either....

Yes, it's typical. Usually the fine stranded cables to the RCDs and RCBOs are factory-welded at the ends (not soldered) to provide a solid lump for the end of the screw to clamp down onto.

 

[Resu]

Yes, it's typical. Usually the fine stranded cables to the RCDs and RCBOs are factory-welded at the ends (not soldered) to provide a solid lump for the end of the screw to clamp down onto.

That's it. The fly leads came out of the box like this (copper showing), the gaffer sorts them on his final once over and tidies up anything like that (tightening screws, etc). This was just a quick pic inbetween times (before he was finished) as the cupboard was tiny and I didn't want to get in his way!

 

[Engineer54]

Yes, it's typical. Usually the fine stranded cables to the RCDs and RCBOs are factory-welded at the ends (not soldered) to provide a solid lump for the end of the screw to clamp down onto.

And if the RCD/RCBO flying leads are cut to size to suit the installation and dressing of cables?? Why would you then not use a crimped termination??

The other thing i notice on many of the CU installations shown on this and other threads, is the tenancy to bend/dress the 10 or 16mm in or out of the devices, immediately as they leave the device termination. Thus always leaving exposed bare conductor.... Can't understand why these bigger cables aren't dressed into the CU devices, similar to those of the final circuits??...

 

[HandySparks]

And if the RCD/RCBO flying leads are cut to size to suit the installation and dressing of cables?? Why would you then not use a crimped termination??

The other thing i notice on many of the CU installations shown on this and other threads, is the tenancy to bend/dress the 10 or 16mm in or out of the devices, immediately as they leave the device termination. Thus always leaving exposed bare conductor.... Can't understand why these bigger cables aren't dressed into the CU devices, similar to those of the final circuits??...

Indeed, if you cut the "welded" ends off, then a crimp or bootlace ferrule would be ideal.

The 16mm² into the RCDs is usually already in place when you buy the CU. The very fine stranding, and therefore great flexibility of the cables means that the cable often won't stay put, even if you attempt to dress it neatly. The tendency is to leave well alone and just check the tightness of the terminal screws. If you remove the wire and trim the end back to bring the insulation down to the body of the device, you run into the possibility of those fine strands getting loose and needing to put a crimp on as above.

 

[Amp David]

I've in the past trimmed and crimped a ferrule on the Wylex tri rated stuff, but the terminals in the neutral bar are too small?

 

[Engineer54]

Indeed, if you cut the "welded" ends off, then a crimp or bootlace ferrule would be ideal.

The 16mm² into the RCDs is usually already in place when you buy the CU. The very fine stranding, and therefore great flexibility of the cables means that the cable often won't stay put, even if you attempt to dress it neatly. The tendency is to leave well alone and just check the tightness of the terminal screws. If you remove the wire and trim the end back to bring the insulation down to the body of the device, you run into the possibility of those fine strands getting loose and needing to put a crimp on as above.

I don't agree with that statement, all our panels/DB's that have inter-connecting fine multi stranded cables, are dressed into the desired final position. Just a little bit of time needed, to get rid of any packaging coils. Probably the easiest method is applying a bit of heat. Either way, i think i'd prefer to see a slightly untidy cable than bare conductor showing...

Amp David....

No idea about Wylex CU's, but i would have thought that at least 2 or 3+ of the terminals on the Neutral bar(s) would be suitable for 16mm cable or more. A 16mm cable crimp, be it ferrule bootlace or pin, will not be anywhere near that of the actual cable CSA.

 

[Jurassic Sparks]

BS 951 earth clamps on suppliers cables are a no no
especially as it looks like a paper insulated lead sheathed oil filled cable
I tink they call it the big bang theory !!
also I would not take a maine earth from such a cable you are far safer using an electrode unless the supplier tells you its ok

 

[Knobhead]

BS 951 earth clamps on suppliers cables are a no no
especially as it looks like a paper insulated lead sheathed oil filled cable
I tink they call it the big bang theory !!
also I would not take a maine earth from such a cable you are far safer using an electrode unless the supplier tells you its ok

? ? ? ? ? ? ?

 

[Jurassic Sparks]

sorry tone my words got posted in the wrong place
the website keeps doing funny things
i am off for a beer before it rains again

 

[Amp David]

Amp David....

No idea about Wylex CU's, but i would have thought that at least 2 or 3+ of the terminals on the Neutral bar(s) would be suitable for 16mm cable or more. A 16mm cable crimp, be it ferrule bootlace or pin, will not be anywhere near that of the actual cable CSA.

Totally agree with you, exactly what i thought. For whatever reason the crimping tool crimps the ferule into a square shape and its just the corners are just to wide.

Unless the tri rated in the Wylex stuff is only 10mm and I'm trying to crimp on a 16mm ferule

 

[Robotstar5]

A few control panels I've designed and built.

 

[alarm man]

A few control panels I've designed and built.

View attachment 14211 View attachment 14212 View attachment 14213

nice work there rob.what make is that enclosure in pic 1

 

[johnboy6083]

it looks like a sarel to me matey.

 

[Robotstar5]

It was fibreglass or ABS from RS. It had to be non-ferrous as it was used on a glueing station where the operators taped a magnet to the glue gun and stuck it to the previous (metal) enclosure, the glue got everywhere gumming up a keyswitch and pushbuttons. I also made the aluminium guard below to protect the wiring from the same problems.

 

[Toby Kuhnert]

Hi everyone, Here are some pictures of an install I completed last week for my Elecsa assessment. I tried to be as thorough as I could in designing this and on the actual installing, but if theres anything you don't think is right, I would appreciate constructive criticism. I'm just going to enrol on wednesday for the level 3 2330 C+G. Thanks, Toby
Heres how I did it...

The shed dis board was fed via a B32A RCBO in the main dis board. 6mm2 Twin and earth from then until the garage, then jointing onto 6mm2 2 core SWA using through crimps in an IP56 adaptable box. The steel armour being earthed by the TNCS supply at the house via twin and earth. The armour earth finishes at the point of entry at the shed with no inter-connection with the shed dis board. Then I knocked in a single 5/8" earth rod, fed that to the shed dis board with 16mm single core green/yellow. This gave me an Ra of 37ohms which I was happy with.
There are two HF fluorescent IP65 fittings, one 4' the other 5'. Both switched by single gang metal clad switch. Then a radial socket circuit supply two metal clad single gang socket outlets and one double gang metal clad socket outlets. Most of the circuits are run in 20mm plastic conduit, apart from where the cable will not come to any damage. There is also an IP66 double gang socket outlet on the outer wooden skin of the shed. There are no service pipes (water, gas) etc.

 

[Strima]

View attachment 14233
Personally I would have butted the adaptable box and the CU up to each other purely for aesthetic reasons, also used a smaller adaptable box to save cutting into the timber frame, I hope the frame isn't bearing much weight. Also run the earth back through the box and out of the bottom, but that's just me.
View attachment 14237
The way the box is mounted the ship lap will allow water to run straight onto the mating surface of the outlet, I would bring it out with a couple of batons just to be safe.

Ra of 37 ohms is good, get another rod in and get better, it's all good practice.

Edit: Blinding flash of light... Why not terminate the SWA straight into the CU as it's a plastic enclosure, just don't connect the earth/armour fly lead?

 

[Toby Kuhnert]

View attachment 14233
Personally I would have butted the adaptable box and the CU up to each other purely for aesthetic reasons, also used a smaller adaptable box to save cutting into the timber frame, I hope the frame isn't bearing much weight. Also run the earth back through the box and out of the bottom, but that's just me.
View attachment 14237
The way the box is mounted the ship lap will allow water to run straight onto the mating surface of the outlet, I would bring it out with a couple of batons just to be safe.

Ra of 37 ohms is good, get another rod in and get better, it's all good practice.

Edit: Blinding flash of light... Why not terminate the SWA straight into the CU as it's a plastic enclosure, just don't connect the earth/armour fly lead?

I was originally going to butt the two up directly but I had no luck in keeping the two rubber gromits in place. yeah in retrospect I should have used a smaller box although the frame isn't supporting much weight at all its part of a labyrinth of supports! . I will bring that socket out like you say. i was originally going to terminate it directly but the dis board enclosure was so small, I was going to struggle to gland it properly, so I decided to gland it into a separate box to make sure it was done properly. I'm nervous about the assessment just trying to make sure everythings the best I can do thanks for your help

 

[Robotstar5]

I would have used a metal or more rigid adaptable box in the shed, the SWA is distorting the box in picture (just asthetics). Where the T&E transitions to SWA, I've always drilled a hole at the side of the gland and bolted the earth ring to the box, then use a second nut to hold ring crimp on earth wire.
How did you get on pulling T&E through the tube, would singles have been easier?

 

[alarm man]

It was fibreglass or ABS from RS. It had to be non-ferrous as it was used on a glueing station where the operators taped a magnet to the glue gun and stuck it to the previous (metal) enclosure, the glue got everywhere gumming up a keyswitch and pushbuttons. I also made the aluminium guard below to protect the wiring from the same problems.

i thought it it didnt look metal,looks a nice enclosure tho,in a sad panel man sort of way:redface:

 

[Toby Kuhnert]

I would have used a metal or more rigid adaptable box in the shed, the SWA is distorting the box in picture (just asthetics). Where the T&E transitions to SWA, I've always drilled a hole at the side of the gland and bolted the earth ring to the box, then use a second nut to hold ring crimp on earth wire.
How did you get on pulling T&E through the tube, would singles have been easier?

I agree, I did think that once the SWA was terminated to the box, but it wasn't too bad so I didn't bother. I future I will do that however. about bolting the gland - we were taught to do that at college, I thought I'd try to do it another way (told by my mate who's a sparks) but it was harder if anything. Pushing the cable through the conduit was fine actually, the rigidity of the cable was fine to push itself through. I would've used singles, but I didn't conduit the entire shed, only the drops where the cable might come into damage. along the roof of the shed, the twin and earth is clipped direct.

 

[Robotstar5]

what make is that enclosure in pic 1

had a look today, It's made by Schnieder

 

[Robotstar5]

Just serviced the generator ready for the winter and thought I'd get a picture of what I did a couple of years ago....



I even built the "shed" it lives in :smile5: