A normal on/off switch is fine for any light, including LED.
CFL... compact fluorescent lamp... the little spiral glass tubes cannot be dimmed at all.
LED require an electronic dimmer, and there are so many different dimmers and different LED lamps, it’s trial and error to get ones that are compatible.
Varilight seem to be a good bet for any LED

Halogen lamps can be dimmed in the traditional sense using your existing dimmer. Slightly better energy efficiency than old lamps, but not as good as LED.

There were some dimmable CFLs available but rare.

I agree with the Varilight V-Pro dimmers or modules, however I have just had to return 5 which didn't dim out of the box & 1 which failed to dim after a couple of hours, so don't know if they have a new batch problem.
 
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I have used those very expensive for what you get but worth the money if the back box cannot be replaced. Don't think they will fit the OPs box though.
 
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Hi

I don't understand your shocking reaction. What part you've considered as weird or hard to understand?

The green wire fixed to the metallic box refers to the ground path. The black wire is looped from first conduct (origin like MDB) to the second conduct (where he goes to neutralize sets of lights or whatever bar nodes).

The two red wires are first the live (originated from MDB) the other is its return to feed the lighting set: dimmed by an external rotary mechanical shaft or equivalent, the live is shrank by magnitude (the POT sign on the return indicates a voltage divider that arrcodingly lights react)

What part of above writings you found strange?

As for the broken lug, you can use a rotary SDS drill to fit 3.5mm to 5mm screwdrive holder past the back of the box, then once installed you use 3.5mm to 5mm screwdrive but longer than the one not broken for like max 3cm

Dj
 

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