Sealing a consumer unit entry points??

[Midwest]

well done Charlie I could not put it better me self .

Didn't somebody(s) else as well

 

[UNG]

Daft as the water in bags sounds Envirograph have already got a fire suppression system for consumer units

 

[Dustydazzler]

I though plastic bags were bad for the environment

They should be using paper bags surely

 

[Reevio]

Bunch of old women.

 

[MJPD29]

It really is out of control they will want us to make it fully air tight and pressure test it before were done

 

[leebut]

It really is out of control they will want us to make it fully air tight and pressure test it before were done

I was told initially sometime back that the consumer units need not be sealed because the main accelerant was the plastic CU so the steel CU was enough to stop a spread of fire, my question at the time was if the plastic CU were to be replaced with steel what about the MCB and plastic blanks why are they not being replaced with a fire proof alternative.

The answers I've been told is, the fires start from loose terminals in the tops of MCB's and the flames melt the plastic CU which spreads the fire, so any opening below the top of the CU doesn't need sealed, hence the reason why I bring my cables in through the back knock outs and I only put flexible grommet strip round to stop damage to the outer sheathing.

An alternative I was told about was to install a length of deep trunking along the top of the CU and run all cables into the trunking through the knockout in the top of the CU but I'm skeptical that that would work.

I personally don't like the look of loads of glands poking out the top of a CU I prefer them to come out the back.


OPINIONS OPINIONS OPINIONS!!!!

 

[ipf]

It really is out of control they will want us to make it fully air tight and pressure test it before were done

We'll have to get a plumber to test our 'lectrics

 

[leebut]

We'll have to get a plumber to test our 'lectrics

I like the idea of the plastic bag full of water in the top that would make a great sprinkler system

 

[MJPD29]

I was told initially sometime back that the consumer units need not be sealed because the main accelerant was the plastic CU so the steel CU was enough to stop a spread of fire, my question at the time was if the plastic CU were to be replaced with steel what about the MCB and plastic blanks why are they not being replaced with a fire proof alternative.

The answers I've been told is, the fires start from loose terminals in the tops of MCB's and the flames melt the plastic CU which spreads the fire, so any opening below the top of the CU doesn't need sealed, hence the reason why I bring my cables in through the back knock outs and I only put flexible grommet strip round to stop damage to the outer sheathing.

An alternative I was told about was to install a length of deep trunking along the top of the CU and run all cables into the trunking through the knockout in the top of the CU but I'm skeptical that that would work.

I personally don't like the look of loads of glands poking out the top of a CU I prefer them to come out the back.


OPINIONS OPINIONS OPINIONS!!!!
I would love to meet the people that make these rules. Admittedly I like the metal boards a lot more than the plastic ones as they had a real cheap feel to them but it's getting over the top. Have to be careful with the rest entry through wood because wood burns can't win going to have to carry a sheet of fire board with me now as well as all the other rubbish

 

[ipf]

I like the idea of the plastic bag full of water in the top that would make a great sprinkler system

As has already been intimated......don't give them ideas for the amendments.

 

[ipf]

The answers I've been told is, the fires start from loose terminals in the tops of MCB's and the flames melt the plastic CU which spreads the fire, so any opening below the top of the CU doesn't need sealed, hence the reason why I bring my cables in through the back knock outs and I only put flexible grommet strip round to stop damage to the outer sheathing.

Agree. There's nothing wrong with a piece of ply stood off the wall for rear entry...

 

[leebut]

Agree. There's nothing wrong with a piece of ply stood off the wall for rear entry...

I mount my boards on a frame of sticky trunking using longer screws with washers so the plywood is further away from the CU so less chance of scorching or fire, the idea of the metal CU is to take away the accelerant so I don't understand the logic of sealing the knock out making any additional work harder to carry out

 

[ipf]

I mount my boards on a frame of sticky trunking using longer screws with washers so the plywood is further away from the CU so less chance of scorching or fire, the idea of the metal CU is to take away the accelerant so I don't understand the logic of sealing the knock out making any additional work harder to carry out

To tell you the truth, I don't do many these days but I've access to various bits of ply and wood machines so it's just make up as required......don't even use grommet strip...make the wood slots smaller than the metal and smooth nicely...no problem. Good ply wood is no fire hazard.

 

[Charlie_]

I just make sure all the terminations are nipped up nice and tight

 

[Charlie_]

I take it commercial/industrial sparks are better than domestics?

Seeing as they can be trusted with plastic boards

 

[ipf]

I just make sure all the terminations are nipped up nice and tight

Yeah......but with the class of some of todays terminations...…….and some working on 'em...

 

[Risteard]

I take it commercial/industrial sparks are better than domestics?

Seeing as they can be trusted with plastic boards

Well presumably the assumption is that there are plenty of laws in the workplace to ensure that the installation is maintained adequately, etc. Obviously this isn't always the case particularly with smaller businesses.

 

[Devonchris]

I mount my boards on a frame of sticky trunking using longer screws with washers so the plywood is further away from the CU so less chance of scorching or fire, the idea of the metal CU is to take away the accelerant so I don't understand the logic of sealing the knock out making any additional work harder to carry out

So in effect, you form a chimney in a plastic flammable material, (I'm assuming plastic as I've never seen sticky back metal trunking), with an opening from the CU into the chimney? Bit like cladding a tower block??

 

[Intoelectrics]

If You are going to mount the CU on wood then just paint the wood in a fire retardant paint first.

Home | Rawlins Paints

www.rawlinspaints.com

I paint it in something like this, you can get it cheaper than quoted on the link.
I bought a tin a while back and coated a few sheets of ply, I then just cut out what I need for the CU then touch in the cut edges with the paint.
Its probably a bit over kill, but for a few extra quid it gives me peace of mind. I print off the data sheet to the paint and put it in with the EICR.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Why don’t manufacturers just make a ‘19th addition’ non combustion bomb and fire proof surface mounting accessory for domesticated consumer unit wiring.

Kind like a surface wiring patters just much larger and supply with it a tube of flame retardant sealant to caulk in any gaps or holes