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My method doesn't put the radiator out of service. It'll still work lying flat. Done it many times, both for decorating and plastering.
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I'm not following you. If pipework is done properly and clipped properly, you won't be able to unhinge the rad from its brackets without disconnecting the pipework. It's physically impossible unless i'm misunderstanding what you'e saying.My method doesn't put the radiator out of service. It'll still work lying flat. Done it many times, both for decorating and plastering.
Well i can't lift any of the rads off my walls, there's only a couple of mm play and it never creaks, it's silent despite the installation being about 25 years old. Nowhere near enough play to get them off the walls without undoing the pipework. If clipped properly there should be no play in radiators - the clips are snug fit to stop vibration noise.You need to lift a rad. about 8mm to lift it off of its brackets. A correctly installed rad will have at least that amount of movement, if for no other reason than to stop creaking from expansion and contraction.
A rad. with no movement is a badly installed rad.
Agreed, I've done that as well in the past.With a radiator that is conventionally plumbed, with a valve at either end at the bottom, it should be possible to lift it off its brackets, and rotate it 90 degrees onto wooden blocks of the correct height, so that it lies out into the room. All that's required is to loosen the connections slightly and tighten them when its lain over. Leakage should be zero or just a few drops.
You can take a running jump with that idea. I always paint behind the rads, and I almost always take them off to do so. In the general case, it's usually possible to see bits that aren't accessible to paint.Same goes for painting behind rads, nobody takes the rad off to paint they just go as far as they can with an angled brush or mini roller.
Without heating in that room, the rest of the heating will be just fine.What if it's winter? You're leaving someone with no heating for at least a full day
Pardon ? Take a rad that's (say) 4' wide & 3' high (a lot of mine are bigger than that, one is 4m wide). You'll get, at best, 6" in - and nothing from the bottom - it's harder than painting with a roller. So that's an area 3' wide by 2'6" high - or 1080 square inches. So you're off by a couple of orders of magnitude.just so you can literally skim in about 6 square inches of plaster that's never going to be seen until you take the rad off the wall.
Electricity is probably more important to get perfect than a bit of skim nobody will ever see. You can get all the way into the brackets on most rads from the sides with a long trowel, and 6-9" down from the top, meaning you're removing rads to skim 2' of wall completely hidden from sight behind a radiator.It's interesting that there are people advocating massive disruption to electrical systems, disturbing the connections by doing an EICR on every tenant change (could be twice/year for some properties). And at the same time there are those advocating never disturbing a radiator even for a really infrequent event like skimming the walls !
Even getting the socket level seems to be a dying art, especially in hospitals.That’s like us fitting a socket and not lining up the skirts on the 3.5 screws so they’re horizontal?
It's literally never seen, you cannot see it unless you take the rad off and if you do it properly you don't have a massive lip, you can blend it in decently. This is like calling it a bodge because skimming only went just past worktop height before a new kitchen was fitted instead of skimming the entire thing, which is a completely unnecessary time sink and monetary cost.If I paid for a room re-skimming then I would not be happy if the wall behind the radiator was missed out. Let's face it, a re-skim is not exactly a regular thing to have done so you want it right when it is done.
Seems a bit of a bodge to go through all the upheaval and mess of a reskim to not have it spot on.
And that's a fair enough stance, my only point is calling it 'rough' or 'bodging' unless you take all the rads off the wall is a bit of a stretch. Unless you put your head to the wall, if you've done the job properly you cannot see it. It's a more 'complete' job to take the rad off and just skim the lot but it's hardly a bodge job to do otherwise.The 2 plasterers I know do a full skim unless specifically told by the customer otherwise.
Behind kitchen units is a competely different issue as you can't see behind.l them at all. You can see quite a bit behind radiators, and I've noticed this before at some people's houses where you can see the previous paint colour, especially if the radiator is a bit further away from the wall.
Let's face it, you're probably only ever going to have your room skimmed out once in 20 years or more - might as well spend half an hour taking the rad off abd refitting it.
The 2 plasterers I know do a full skim unless specifically told by the customer otherwise.
Did a T+I recently, the kitchen had been re skimmed around the accessories and they were almost flush with the plaster. I didn't inspect behind those...Don't think I could sleep at night knowing stuff in the house had been plastered around ?
that is what i do. rotate , maybe only 45 deg. strap a cable tie or 3 to the wall bracket. paint/paper, whatever, then refix after.With a radiator that is conventionally plumbed, with a valve at either end at the bottom, it should be possible to lift it off its brackets, and rotate it 90 degrees onto wooden blocks of the correct height, so that it lies out into the room. All that's required is to loosen the connections slightly and tighten them when its lain over. Leakage should be zero or just a few drops.
your fault. slots should be vertical, not horizontal. ??. skirts are horizontal so they don't fall when you lift them.How did slots autocorrect to skirts? That’s a different thing altogether.
Hadn't seen this one before,clever thinking if they will liftthat is what i do. rotate , maybe only 45 deg. strap a cable tie or 3 to the wall bracket. paint/paper, whatever, then refix after.
If pipework is clipped properly it's not possible to lift off the brackets. I've tried in my house on the back of this convo and not a one of my 8 rads will lift because the pipework is all clipped down properly. I would have to turn off the water and then completely disconnect the valves to get it off, by which time my floor is soaked.Oh.no wrong again you gotta raise the rad first to tilt
Fine, but no need to get heated about it. ???No more about radiators start another thread if you want to drone on about it. See the title of this thread.
Sounds like some sort of weird dance, that.......or is it just a warm up?that is what i do. rotate , maybe only 45 deg. strap a cable tie or 3 to the wall bracket. paint/paper, whatever, then refix after.
Nicely bent to fit though!"Did that rcbo fit that board."
"Yes guv went in quite well."View attachment 89510
Do those bus-bar screw covers actually cut power as the on/off says? If so a couple are half-way!Was fault finding why the 63A MCB for some sports pitch lights was randomly tripping. Opened the DB and saw this. How many defects can you find?!
Yes they do......just bad work, obviouslyDo those bus-bar screw covers actually cut power as the on/off says? If so a couple are half-way!
Not to mention that unused ons that should be in the off position...
If you look at the main switch, that's what I did.Would you bother looking for fuses in that scenario or just turn off the DP main isolation ?
That's what I tend to do if posssible
That's not the original busbar cover though is it?? Doesn't look very MK like.At least they put the busbar cover back on
Yes it does... its squint!That's not the original busbar cover though is it?? Doesn't look very MK like.
Called out to replace a faulty 2gang switch. Managed to get to the supply in the dark under the stairs but it took a few moments to fathom out where to isolate the lighting circuit. Built in 1965, original wiring, with various additions, of course.
View attachment 90072
Oh Yes, there it is........
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Red and blue tape?? Were they planning ahead with the blue tape or taking a step back in time with the red tape?Not bad but not a patch on this monkey I found tonight.
View attachment 90086View attachment 90087
To me that is an unsheathed MICC which has had the insulation stripped back and the copper covered with tape.
Don't know if there's a fuse or link in the carrier but either way it's iffy as.
Not bad but not a patch on this monkey I found tonight.
View attachment 90086View attachment 90087
To me that is an unsheathed MICC which has had the insulation stripped back and the copper covered with tape.
Don't know if there's a fuse or link in the carrier but either way it's iffy as.
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