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Spark what you say is exactly what I want.
What I did on the paper above is what I think your drawing is telling me to do.
My drawing will be replicated for the 2nd heater as per your post, except for emergency stop which kills all three (2 pumps and heater)
What I'm asking is what's wrong with how I've drawn it out?

All of the contactor/relay contacts on my drawing are normally open (N/O)
 
All of the contactor/relay contacts on my drawing are normally open (N/O)

Hi Spark,
Yeah my contactors are all NO. I have removed the auxillary but Tony said in his previous post that the stat will kill the power to the controlling contactor. That is what has confused me.
 
Hi Spark,
Yeah my contactors are all NO. I have removed the auxillary but Tony said in his previous post that the stat will kill the power to the controlling contactor. That is what has confused me.

Iam not sure if Tony was referring to your drawing (I suspect he was), as with mine the start/stop relay will remain closed (unless the stop or E-Stop is activated) regardless of the stat status.

On my drawing K1 is the control element to K2, K2 is the stat controlled switch which actully turns the heater on and off when the stat dictates.
 
Does this help any ?

I have drawn the box around K1 contacts, and the coil for K1 is shown seperate, as is K2 coil, I have added the A1 and A2 labels too.
 

Attachments

  • HEATER~1.pdf
    12.9 KB · Views: 10
Sorry to jump in here, but I think Spark68 has the easiest solution with your control setup, I am not sure on your diagrams how you have set this up.
Each heater has a latching contactor control by momentary start stop buttons.
This controls another contactor, through the stat control to operate each heater.
The pump control is a straightforward single latching contactor.


I think that this diagram is a simple layout (from a simple person) of what Spark68 has said.

Control Panel for 3ph Heaters Heater control - EletriciansForums.net
 
Sorry to jump in here, but I think Spark68 has the easiest solution with your control setup, I am not sure on your diagrams how you have set this up.
Each heater has a latching contactor control by momentary start stop buttons.
This controls another contactor, through the stat control to operate each heater.
The pump control is a straightforward single latching contactor.


I think that this diagram is a simple layout (from a simple person) of what Spark68 has said.

View attachment 13991

Excellent- The only thing I do not have is a panel start and panel stop. Just an Isolator switch, then the e/stop finally start and stop buttons for each control.
 
View attachment heater circuit.pdf

Here try following this chopped down version as its in standard wiring format and youll need to learn to read them its a copy of Tony's plan with only 1 heater and no pump or E-stop just to allow you to follow it easier.
Ive explained how the marking system functions and hopefully will enlighten you to be able to follow them.
 
View attachment 13992

Here try following this chopped down version as it in standard wiring format and youll need to learn to read them

Hi Darkwood,

Richard Burns has given me a broken down drawing with contactors and if possible I want to stick with them. I really do appreciate all your help. If any of you are interested in making these for me in future I am open to quotes. This has taken up already too much of my time and think in future ill leave it to the professionals.
 
Your panel start / stop is the isolator.
I have modified the diagram to show a single switch (which is the isolator).
It would help you to be able to understand the proper wiring diagrams so do not discount Tony, darkwood and Spark68 contributions, these are the ones that will make the difference and be of most use in the future. Do try and read and understand them, even if only for future reference.
Control Panel for 3ph Heaters Heater control2 - EletriciansForums.net
 
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Ok JP but do have a gander and see if you start to follow what its all about, this will be the type of plan usually found with machinery and control boxes and if you expect to have future interests in that area its well worth learning the basics....

well done Rich' succeeded where many have failed :party: OP seems happy with it but he'll rarely come across such a layout in the real world....well maybe on the wiring bumf with a start stop contactor manufacturers connection plan and cheers JP for the challenge of doing a 1day wonder course on on the teachings of schematics ;)
 
Ok JP but do have a gander and see if you start to follow what its all about, this will be the type of plan usually found with machinery and control boxes and if you expect to have future interests in that area its well worth learning the basics....

well done Rich' succeeded where many have failed :party: OP seems happy with it but he'll rarely come across such a layout in the real world....well maybe on the wiring bumf with a start stop contactor manufacturers connection plan and cheers JP for the challenge of doing a 1day wonder course on on the teachings of schematics ;)


lol Thanks Darkwood. The problem I have/had is just understanding these drawings, but again if anyone is interested in making these for me in future please inbox me.
 
I lack the time unfortunately you could ask tony as he dont do alot all day :lol:

next things to look at regarding your control is E-stop, and whether its required as you have only fitted it as a latching stop button and not wired it as a true e-stop circuit, for the basics of your water heater and pump im not too sure you'll actually need one, as mentioned before a risk assessment needs doing as to the level of possible injury and/or death by an operator and the resulting catagory will give the degree of protection needed.... as your system has been explained it dosn't sound like it warrants an E-stop option.
 
My last note would be to avoid confusion and uncertanty you should fit a row of indicator lamps to signal what is on, anyone walking up to the panel wont be any wiser as to the operational state its in, using a N/O contact (aux if necessary) wire a control on lamp, heater 1, heater 2 and pump lamps as well as a initial power lamp....... i think you'll start to appreciate how a good background is needed before designing and building a panel on your own.
Personally i would have fitted a plc programmed it up lost a few relays added a flow sensor and temp read-out as well as a overtemp sensor all controlling the system in case of problems.... yes a little more advanced but giving it the PRO - touch.
Your system is functional but as it stands it is functionally confusing as to what it on and off at any given time and at a minimum id implicate indication lamps.
 
Another thing I would look at, is providing indicator status lamps for the various items, when you get it working.
You could use the spare contacts on the stop/start contactors (terminals 5&6 on Richards drawing).

As DW said it is debateable whether you actually need an E-Stop or more correctly EPO (Emergency Power Off).

Cross posted with DW above lol
 
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My last note would be to avoid confusion and uncertanty you should fit a row of indicator lamps to signal what is on, anyone walking up to the panel wont be any wiser as to the operational state its in, using a N/O contact (aux if necessary) wire a control on lamp, heater 1, heater 2 and pump lamps as well as a initial power lamp....... i think you'll start to appreciate how a good background is needed before designing and building a panel on your own.
Personally i would have fitted a plc programmed it up lost a few relays added a flow sensor and temp read-out as well as a overtemp sensor all controlling the system in case of problems.... yes a little more advanced but giving it the PRO - touch.
Your system is functional but as it stands it is functionally confusing as to what it on and off at any given time and at a minimum id implicate indication lamps.

Hello Darkwood,
Yep I already have the wheels in motion for this- it would have two indicator lamps. One to show the heater is active and another to show it is drawing heat.
Im just thinking on the drawing that has been done, can I use a 2 pole instead of the three shown?
 
If a third pole isn't required then you can fit the 2pole i think you shown earlier, the calling heat lamp can just be connected to the stat sw wire as the same with any other lamp just double up in the circuit where it requires a signal, although when you advance you will design the lamp indication etc through there own aux contacts but no harm in doubling up on your learning curve. Also for future ref.... control voltages are usually reduced to both heighten safety and allow to export control circuits and sensing outside the panel itself in a safe manor...24v dc is common but can vary in the industry.... last note would be to run slotted trunking to neaten your control system it may mean a larger box but looks more pro'.
 

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