Hi all, I'm new on here....

I have an existing 32A cooker circuit with a wall switch with 13A plug hole.The manufacturer says the new oven is hardwired and is 16A.

Can I just replace the breaker in the consumer unit with a 16A one and use the existing wiring?

Current breaker is a Proteus 2632B which is now obsolete. I haven't opened the consumer unit yet to have a look, but am guessing the 2632b is double pole, as they also used to do a 632b version, though can't see why it'd need to be double pole?
If it's din rail mounted, can I use any 16A b type breaker?
IMG_20220331_001244.jpgIMG_20220331_001754.jpg
 
Im going to piggyback this post as im in a slightly same position. I have a 45amp cooker switch with socket on a 6mm t&e to a 32amp breaker with rcd protection. The mrs wants to get the hisense oven and a built in microwave. The oven is 3kw and the microwave is 900watt, the oven says fuse rating 16amps, can i wire the oven to the 45amp cooker outlet and plug the 900wat built in microwave in the same socket on the original setup of 32amp breaker on 6mm t&e on the 45am cooker outlet with sockets
Thanks
 
Im going to piggyback this post as im in a slightly same position. I have a 45amp cooker switch with socket on a 6mm t&e to a 32amp breaker with rcd protection. The mrs wants to get the hisense oven and a built in microwave. The oven is 3kw and the microwave is 900watt, the oven says fuse rating 16amps, can i wire the oven to the 45amp cooker outlet and plug the 900wat built in microwave in the same socket on the original setup of 32amp breaker on 6mm t&e on the 45am cooker outlet with sockets
Thanks
By 'hisense oven and a built in microwave' do you mean the microwave is built into the oven? I doubt it's got 2 separate cables then. Put a 13A plug on it and if you're lucky there'll be an ignition outlet behind there also to plug it into.

If they're separate, your plan has the microwave on a 13A plug in the cooker isolator socket which is fine, and the oven wired straight to the cooker outlet plate which I would do at my house but change it to a fused spur with outlet if you're worried.

A 900w microwave doesn't mean it draws 900w from the supply, I thought it meant 900w 'microwaving power' to the food. Cooking times would be all over the place if all microwaves used 900w supply but all had different efficiencies, and grill functions etc. I'd guess 2kW-2.5kW for a 900w microwave.
 
By 'hisense oven and a built in microwave' do you mean the microwave is built into the oven? I doubt it's got 2 separate cables then. Put a 13A plug on it and if you're lucky there'll be an ignition outlet behind there also to plug it into.

If they're separate, your plan has the microwave on a 13A plug in the cooker isolator socket which is fine, and the oven wired straight to the cooker outlet plate which I would do at my house but change it to a fused spur with outlet if you're worried.

A 900w microwave doesn't mean it draws 900w from the supply, I thought it meant 900w 'microwaving power' to the food. Cooking times would be all over the place if all microwaves used 900w supply but all had different efficiencies, and grill functions etc. I'd guess 2kW-2.5kW for a 900w microwave.
If your microwave is rated at 1000 watts it uses 1 kilowatt (kW) per hour
 
If your microwave is rated at 1000 watts it uses 1 kilowatt (kW) per hour
The 1000W refers to the actual power emitted by the magnetron in the form of microwaves for heating into the chamber. That is the energy output not the power consumption.

A 1000W microwave probably uses 1400W when running, likewise one drawing 1000W is maybe an 800W microwave. Otherwise the 900W written on my one could be any value of heating, based on its efficiency, and all food packet instructions are meaningless
 
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Fitting 16A hardwired oven to 32A cooker circuit
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