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salmon

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Hi all. First of all, I'm not an electrician, although I am confident in doing small jobs (socket changes, light changes etc.) however I am about to start a course (being sent on one, city & guilds).

My friend (spark, currently on holiday so I can't ask him) has given me his HPAT600 and after showing me how to use it, I got on quit well with it, however on some appliances, especaily class 2 it fails on the fuse but passes on insulation. One thing he told me I might need to do is skip the fuse test and do visual and insulation only.

Obviously I will learn all this during the course but I wanted to ask how I can tell if I will have to skip the fuse test and do visual and insulation only vs do all 3?

I also don't plan on doing any load testing yet, until after said course.

Any advice would be welcomed, and thank you!
 
It is not a prescribed test but the tester is obviously set-up to perform this action prior to the insulation resistance test to prove continuity of the live conductor to the appliance. We had something similar to this and most people bypassed it.
 
telextric - Yes, for items that have a fully functioning switch, I never have that issue however with some appliances, such as radio, tv, lamp, etc.. they don't have a traditional on/off switch but in fact one that is just a press button, (and in a power outage, when it goes back on, you need to press the button again).

Will this always be a "fail" on fuse test for those sort of appliances with those switches? Obviously, those items should not fail as there is no reason for them to fail (fuse works, etc..).

westward10 - Yes, it does the fuse first before the insulation test. I am pleased I was on the right lines with bypassing it. I know with the HPAT600 I can press the shift key, and then class 2 again and it only does the insulation test.

Thank you both
 
Agreed - low-load appliances particularly those with small SMPSUs, and especially capacitor dropper input, can be misdetected by the tester as being switched off when they are not. Since there is no requirement to 'test' the fuse (i.e. continuity) I always leave this bypassed if possible, except on extension leads where a polarity check inherently tests continuity. The little battery PAT120 that I use for quick checks where there is no power can't have the warning disabled, but pressing the test button again makes it proceed anyway.

Of course, it is essential to check that any physical power switch is on before testing, but it should not be necessary for the machine to point this out to the operator.
 

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